poor boy's carbide tools

[johnnycnc]

Had some unused things at work,played for a bit.
Used what was available,scrounging around:biggrin:
Cost = 0.00 on Timecard.
Fun trying it out = priceless.
cnc machines used = 0.
Went with round stock,so I could just stuff it in a drilled hole.
Shank has an 1/8" cross hole so i can pin it in a handle.
Version 1 works fair,needs "sharper" inserts.
Version 2 works pretty darn good.
Version 3 is ok,but could use "sharper" carbide.
Thanks for looking at my junk.
Any comments always welcome.

 

[pipecrafter]

I love it! That's exactly what I've got planned to make some time after Christmas. Are there any gotchas or suggestions on making these?

 

[johnnycnc]

Kurt,
Nothing too hard,just relax and enjoy the fun of making your own tool.
I used (because available) flat head socket screws,and what I had in the way
of old carbide inserts that were collecting dust.Rod stock was just cutoff scrap that I encountered.

Fit the body to the insert on a bench grinder,and drill and tap on what you
have available.You might drill and tap a bit too close,and then fine tune the back seat to get a snug fit.Just in case your drill walks or whatever.

If I were to buy inserts,i would get them with 20-30° relief angle like some
others who made similar tools recommend. mine are steel cutting inserts
and don't exactly dig in like there's gold to be had,but they cut with a good
amount of control.(in other words,they don't self feed to the tube in 1.1 nanoseconds!)
I like round shank tools,they feel more fluid to me when i turn,but the square could be ok too.
Post yours up when you get to them!

 

[marcruby]

What did you do - grind it out and then drill it? Heck, I could probably manage to do that. What kind of drill do you use? [I'm such an idiot when it comes to working metal).

Marc

 

[johnnycnc]

Marc,
yes just hack away on the ole bench grinder to fit the insert,
and then you could use your drill press to drill it.
Soft steel will drill with a hardware store bit.
slow speed, wd40 to lube the cut.
Shoot,if you tried you could use a hand drill.
Get the right drill size for whatever tap you are using.

Chamfer the hole before you tap it will help get the tap started.
Get a little tap handle for the tap;
you will likely get the hole boogered up and tapped all funny if you try to
use a little wrench to turn the tap.

Easy as falling off a log,just be patient and have some extra stock.
If you mess it up,your mistakes are pretty easy to learn from.
So yes Sir, you could do it!:biggrin:

What did you do - grind it out and then drill it? Heck, I could probably manage to do that. What kind of drill do you use? [I'm such an idiot when it comes to working metal).

Marc

 

[johnnycnc]

Oh, Marc..the secret to working metal is to
bite it real hard before it bites you.
That way it knows who is the boss,and won't give
you any trouble.

 

[jhs494]

I like the idea. I have given this some thought in the past, but most carbide used for metal turning really doesn't have the edge needed for wood.
Have you found any that you might suggest?
Doesn't the TN coated insert have a duller edge John.
I have a DNMG 434 with a really high hook chip relief that I have roughed out acrylic with, and it works great, but I must confess I used the metal lathe to do it.
Maybe I'll dig thru the insert bins at the shop and come up with something and give this a try.
Thanks for sharing it with us, John!

 

[johnnycnc]

I like the idea. I have given this some thought in the past, but most carbide used for metal turning really doesn't have the edge needed for wood. AGREED
Have you found any that you might suggest? whatever "feels" sharp,like a knife blade.Frank had one he used that he got from Grizzly,and they were
meant for wood.I think he said it really got with it.
Doesn't the TN coated insert have a duller edge John.
Not really,per se.Even nice sharp end mills come with TIN coat and they will slice you right open.
I have a DNMG 434 with a really high hook chip relief that I have roughed out acrylic with, and it works great, but I must confess I used the metal lathe to do it.
Maybe I'll dig thru the insert bins at the shop and come up with something and give this a try. Free is good,real good!
Thanks for sharing it with us, John!

Go for it!

 

[Rifleman1776]

Sumptin' like my poor mans tool.
Yer gonna put me out of business. (that's a joke, I don't sell them)
Thanks for helping educate others that some tools can be made simply and inexpensively. Part of the fun of woodturning/working.

Edit: best of all, you are teaching folks how to catch fish for themselves.

 

[pipecrafter]

Thank you, John! You can bet I'll show pics of what I hack together.

 

[Paul in OKC]

[/QUOTE]
I like the idea. I have given this some thought in the past, but most carbide used for metal turning really doesn't have the edge needed for wood. AGREED
Have you found any that you might suggest? whatever "feels" sharp,like a knife blade.Frank had one he used that he got from Grizzly,and they were
meant for wood.I think he said it really got with it.
Doesn't the TN coated insert have a duller edge John.
Not really,per se.Even nice sharp end mills come with TIN coat and they will slice you right open.
I have a DNMG 434 with a really high hook chip relief that I have roughed out acrylic with, and it works great, but I must confess I used the metal lathe to do it.
Maybe I'll dig thru the insert bins at the shop and come up with something and give this a try. Free is good,real good![/QUOTE]

Go for it!

Glad to see you playing, John. I agree with the comments made in here. Dnmg's will be a tough go on a hand held tool, I would think. Dnmp's would be a bit better, more posotive, but still. Like said, free is good, and playing is what it is about!