Very cool idea and great looking pen. If I may ask what kind of kit did you use?
Atrax in gunmetal.
Remember that when you line up the points on the cue for cutting blanks you want to line up the bottom of the points where the butt handle meets the forearm. The sharp points on top don't go all the way through in a full splice cue so you would end up just turning the tips of the points out.
Also make sure the cue is a full splice as in two separate pieces spliced together as some cues simply have those points painted on.
Also if the old cue has veneers at the point please try and identify the model of the cue before hacking it up. The old Brunswick house cues had veneers and those cues are quite valuable for conversion. Some converted cues are well into the thousands. Anything with a Brunswick sticker or stamp that say Hoppe have identified first.
You can see in this picture below a nice before and after of a veneered Brunswick. Those are actually colored veneers from the factory. This is a Brunswick Titlist from the 40's. I didn't do the work I had it done.
Couple of Before -
Halfway through restoration -
Fully converted to two-piece and restored -
- and another photo where I lightly sanded down the dirty veneers to reveal their color. Again lol don't hack these cues up. If you need identification contact me at the very least and I'll tell you what you got.
Here is a typical worthless house cue. Notice no veneers. Hack away on these.
Sorry for the long explanation just don't want to see someone whack up something of value. I find these old valuable ones all the time at flea markets and resale shops along with the junk ones. Even unrestored and in bad condition these Hoppe or Brunswick cues can be worth 100-400 dollars.