Polyester resin

[Daddy1]

I am relatively new to turning pens and the tricks and ideas I have seen on these forums is MINDBLOWING. Just when I think I am doing something special I look at some of the postings or tutorials and I am so humbled. Those that can make segmented pens or pens with inlay are my heros.

Anyway, can someone give me a quick explaination of polyester resin. What is it, where do you get it, when and why do you use it, Is it something a relatively new turner can do?

As always thanks for your advice, tips and knowledge.

 

[gketell]

All your answers can be found in the Casting and Stabilization section.

If you can turn a purchased acrylic blank you can turn your own PR blank.

Liquid Resin + hardener makes a plastic blank. You can color it, swirl it, cast it over a label, cast it into wood, etc. You use it to make different kinds of blanks than "just" wood.

It is relatively easy but you do need a few essentials: PR and hardener, a mold (can be as simple as a length of PVC pipe) and some way to get the bubbles out (vacuum, time, or vibration). What else you need beyond that depends on what you want to do with it.

GK

 

[stevers]

AAAAAA, what he said. Nice explanation Greg.

 

[gothycdesigns]

PR can be found at Michaels craft stores. There is also another product called Easy Flo 60, which I hear is pourable like water, 2-3 minute mix time and 20-30 minutes of demold time. But supposedley it is stronger that the traditional Polyester resin, it is a polyurethane. Check this site out

http://bare-metal.com/Polytek-EasyFlo-60-Polyurethane-Resin-Casting.html This is to be the site with the cheapest pricing on it. there is a distibutor in my area that says it is also in a clear and can be pigmented.

Good Luck.

GD

 

[Glass Scratcher]

The EasyFlo 60 looks to be similar to the Alumilte White and priced close as well. Your pot time is only 2-3 minutes, and that may not be long enough to get your color mixes, and pour into several molds. Maybe ok for one but...

Curtis knows more about Alumilite, and I think there is still a corp rep who reads the site as well. Give him a shout.

 

[Daddy1]

I spent several hours last night reading the postings in "casting and stabilzation" again I am humbled by the creativity of this group. I will be trying some castings eventually. I have to sell some pens first to the $$$ to create the pressure pot etc.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Rmartin]

I've just begun making my own castings, but have had good success so far without a pressure pot. Maybe it's the high humidity in my area, or just beginners luck, but I haven't had a problem with bubbles. I bought mine from Micheal's. It's expensive!

Rmartin

 

[gketell]

Daddy,

Remember a pressure pot is not absolutely necessary. Vibration will also help bubbles leave the mix. Someone posted that they use their scrollsaw table as a "already have it" vibration table and it worked great for them. Heck, a running clothes dryer would probably work in a pinch (but only if it is outdoors, you don't want drying PR in the house: It STINKS).

Here is a bit more reading for you!:
http://content.penturners.org/articles/2005/casting_polyester_resin.pdf
http://www.penmakersguild.com/articles/ribbonprocess.pdf

And there are more PR articles in the Library of this site.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=45

GK

 

[Fred]

Kevin, be sure to watch for the Harbor Freight pressure pot to be on sale. That is when it really becomes a 'deal.' Not only can one use it for pressure up to around 60 psi, it also can be used for vacuum with some slight modifications. The pot is a definite asset if you plan on casting and/or vacuuming your own blanks. []

 

[stevers]

Kevin, When you are ready, just give us a holler. Several of us just got into casting and have a lot of "resent" experience. And the veteran guys have the real experience and seem to love helping us newbie casters.
Also, there will be a tutorial up soon on making a casting pot.