Plexiglass Finish???

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

rtrimyer

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2007
Messages
65
Location
San Antonio, TX, USA.
I read on another web site about using plexiglass disolved in acetone to finish a pen. I was just wondering if this would be similar to using CA. I have not graduated to using CA/BLO yet, and am looking for a better method/more durable than I currently use (Myland and Carnuba). I also was wondering if when using CA/BLO do I add BLO between coats of CA? I have read several different resonses and maybe I just didn't read them right, am not sure.

Thank you,
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
i'm sure it would be similar, but if you're going to try plexi, try CA first, it can't be any harder to apply... (someone correct me if i'm wrong). or, ca/blo first like you mentioned. i had good success with adding the blo first and then before each successive coat, ending with ca. or, bite the bullet and try a thin CA finish, thin CA is easier to get the hang of than medium or thick (in my opinion).
 
Robert,

They are not the "quick" finishes, but you may want to consider using the water based finishes Enduro and Unaxol.

Enduro - http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/generalfinishes.htm

Unaxol - http://mobydicksupplies.com/

Ernie at Beartoothwoods.com carries starter kits of Enduro. These both are time intensive finishes, but they give great results.
 
I have sucessfully (and unsucessfully) used CA, Enduro, and Plexi. If applied properly, all three are very durable.

Plexi is the fastest finish of the bunch (not counting making the plexi solution). My expierence is that you have to be quick and consistant with the wipe on.

Enduro is easy to apply and easy to finish. It takes several days to cure properly.

CA can be quick. I have only been able to get a consistant finish when I apply several coats over a two day span. I was never able to consistantly get the CA/BLO to work for me.

My suggestion is to read the archived posts on each method and then try them for yourself. They are all good and have their place on the right wood.
 
I use plexi and it takes me about six minutes to apply 30 coats and MM through the whole range. By far the cheapest and quickest finish with great durability and excellent shine. (And your fingers don't get stuck together.)

Chris
 
Ok guys this is a new one on me. What is the plexi finish? Is there a tutorial on it? How do you mix the acetone/plexi. Where do you get the stuff? etc. etc. etc.

Rob
 
Originally posted by great12b4ever
<br />Ok guys this is a new one on me. What is the plexi finish? Is there a tutorial on it? How do you mix the acetone/plexi. Where do you get the stuff? etc. etc. etc.

Rob

http://www.thepenshop.net/plexi.pdf
 
The plexi finish is can be easier than some of the CA applications. If you can wipe down a spinning blank with DNA you can do the plexi finish.
 
I'm getting pretty good at doing a CA finish. I use a drop on my finger covered with either a baggie or Nitril glove. I wipe on the drop in a THIN layer and hit it with some aerosole activator. Do about 3-4 full coats and it's realy to begin sanding. Start with 320, and work my way up through 12000 MM. Doesn't take too terribly long. I do wet send when doing this using mineral spirits (which I also use to wet sand raw wood to 400 grit prior to begining the CA treatment, btw).
 
Just remember that the final finish is only as good as the final sanding on the wood. True, you can easily make CA or plexiglass shine, but either will magnify the slightest imperfection in the underlying wood. I don't believe that sanding to 400 grit is enough. How much longer does it take to go to 800 or 1000 or through all 9 of the MM pads? For those who really want to learn about finishing, go to Russ Fairfield's site.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom