Plastic Polish Recommendations - for CA, GluBoost, and Rhino Plastic Blanks

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egnald

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I am reaching out to the vast IAP Knowledge Base regarding Plastic Polishes for use on CA, GluBoost, and Rhino Polyester Plastic Blanks. After wet sanding through all of the MicroMesh grits, For CA and GluBoost I currently use either the blue rouge stick from PSI on a sewn cotton buffing wheel followed by a loosely sewn flannel wheel and for Plastic blanks I use the Satin and Gloss liquid polishes from Stick-Fast followed by a quick buff on the loose flannel buffing wheel.

I am familiar with the performance of the Stick-Fast brand and I have read a little about PSI's One Step, Meguiars PlastX, Dr. Kirk's 3 step Micro Magic, and Novus. All of them essentially say they do the same thing, so I need some expert advice trying to choose.

Regards,
Dave
 
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mark james

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I have used the Meguiars PlastiX exclusively for non-wood blanks the last 6-8 years and have been very happy. Better than others...? I can't say as I was happy and did not feel the need to look further - I'm simple and boring.

For non-woods, I typically begin with wet Abranet - all grits; then wet Micromesh - all grits; then the Meguiras PlasticX.

Some do an additional coat of wax; I do not.
 

EricRN

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I've used Huts ultra gloss as well as Novus 3 step. Novus seems to work a little better but, honestly, the quality of my sanding has a way more variable impact that the polish I use!
 

Darios

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Based on a post from here I've been using Meguiars Mirror Glaze 105 and 205 (two step process) as it seems to be to give a bit of an edge over what I used before (Hut), followed by Renaissance Wax. The wax is redundant to the shine but I am using it for it's reported "protects from fingerprints" qualities.

Thought when the mirror glaze runs low I'll experiment with another product It's a bit of a PITA, not just for the two steps required. The 105 is gritty enough that it keeps getting stuck in the cap.
 

Humongous

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I've been using the Micro-gloss 5 and Micro-gloss for years now. No issues and it's made by the Micro-Mesh people.

 

bugradx2

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Jan 31, 2023
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I'm far from an expert but I started using some Flitz polish after my micro mesh sanding earlier this year and have really liked the results. The only reason I used flitz at the time was because I already owned it and was experimenting so I didn't care if the blank was harmed.

After some research I have found a couple online discussions (including a couple in the IAP archive) stating that Flitz and PSI's One Step Polish are literally the same thing, Flitz bottles it for PSI
 

thewishman

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I tried several and found my best results from Magic Juice. It's a very clear progression in the sheen as each step is used and the final result is easy to achieve. Retired my 3 buff flannel wheels.

I use the first three micromesh pads and then switch to the polish.

 

goldendj

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I tried several and found my best results from Magic Juice. It's a very clear progression in the sheen as each step is used and the final result is easy to achieve. Retired my 3 buff flannel wheels.

I use the first three micromesh pads and then switch to the polish.

I second the Magic Juice recco. Love the shine I get using Zona papers followed by Magic Juice.
 

ramaroodle

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All of them essentially say they do the same thing,

Regards,
Dave
That really about sums it up and sums up the art of finishing. I suspect that no 2 people do it the same but still end up with similar results. That applies to solvents, CA, polishing etc. We get the basics off of YouTube then do our own thing. The finished products will all look great. There is no "right way" to do it. We have probably all used Micro mesh at some point but i stopped using it years ago when I saw someone using Zona papers. Did that for a while but have shortened that to only the first 3 grits. My technique on CA is gluboost, 0000 steel wool, Zona, EEE, then Plastix all using a paper towel. Did away with the wheels. Couldn't see or feel a difference. There are people out there that use 20 coats of CA over 3 days and swear by it. I'm a GluBoost guy. 10-15 minutes and done. To each his/her own. Don't know that you could determine the method by looking at the finished product.
 
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bugradx2

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That really about sums it up and sums up the art of finishing. I doubt that no 2 people do it the same and still end up with similar results. That applies to solvents, CA, polishing etc. We get the basics off of YouTube then do our own thing. The finished products will all look great. There is no "right way" to do it. We have probably all used Micro mesh at some point but i stopped using it years ago. There are people out there that use 20 coats of CA over 3 days and swear by it. I'm a GluBoost guy. 10-15 minutes and done. To each his/her own. Don't know that you could determine the method by looking at the finished product.
so very true

As a new turner I'm very interested to hear what your process is, mind outlining it? I have learned what some of the other folks use in this post and some others that are similar.
 

ramaroodle

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so very true

As a new turner I'm very interested to hear what your process is, mind outlining it? I have learned what some of the other folks use in this post and some others that are similar.
I added to my post above…..
My technique
Watch Mark Dwyer's GluBoost tutorial.
Then….My technique on CA is gluboost, 0000 steel wool (I read somewhere that .0000 wool is equivalent to 600 grit sand paper), the first 3 or 4 grits of Zona papers, EEE, then Plastix all using a paper towel. You need to CLOSELY inspect the results at each step otherwise you are just sealing in the flaws. On pens where I'm engraving and charging $150 I may add a few extra coats and finer grits but I really can't see or feel a difference.

DISCLAIMER- This is just how I do it. To each his own.
 
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