pinching

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Munsterlander

Munsterlander

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Jan 10, 2008
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Gaithersburg, MD, USA.
Another basic finishing question. I've made maybe 100 or so pens doing this and seems to be ok, but maybe not...

As mentioned in the post on BLO with friction polish, I'm using the standard Mylands 3-step finishing product set plus EEE first.

For application I'm using clean white t-shirt material you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes in the paint department.

Rather than holding this on the back side of the pen (over or under), I have been doubling it up 2 or 3 times and then pinching from the front and the back (reaching down over the top) between my thumb and first finger. Lightly at first, but particularly when I apply the friction polish I apply a fair bit of pressure to get the temperature up. My thought process here is that by pinching from both sides I'm not deflecting/bending the mandrel.

So is this a terrible way to do things?

Help/insights much appreciated.
 
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I've done this from time to time.
The cloth I use is always cut down to about 4x4 inches. I keep them cut smaller for convenience reasons. It's easier to handle and I tend to waste less cloth. It also helps when the cloth does get snagged on the blank, there is less to whip around.
As far as the pinch method, if it works and you are careful, it up to you. Just be careful.
 
Sounds like you are being cautious, I would think you will be fine.

Just remember, if it wraps up, let go and reach for the off switch. Don't try to pull it off with the lathe running. I know this seems like a given, but things happen quick.
 
OK, I have to add this here. People think I'm nuts and well... I have found something that works great for me to do the final buffing of a pen blank. I call it G-P-H. I remember in the USMC if we needed a quick shine on our shoes and no time to spit shine we used nylon sock. So I tried it on a pen. Works great. The only place I could get some was from my mother-in-law! Hence - GPH finish "Grandma's Pantie Hose"!


If you try it be careful. Got to do it on a spinning lathe and like the other cloth keep all lose ends tucked in and hold loosely so you can let go.

OOOPPSS slip of the fingers, thanks for bring that to my attention
 
Originally posted by PaulDoug

Ok, I have to add this here. People think I'm nuts and well... I have found something that works great for me to do the final buffing of a pen blank. I call it G-P-H. I remember in the USMC if we needed a quick shine on our shoes and no time to spit shine we used nylon sock. So I tried it on a pen. Works great. The only place I could get some was from my mother-in-law! Hence - GPH finish "Grandma's Panty Hoes"!


If you try it be careful. Got to do it on a spinning lathe and like the other cloth keep all lose ends tucked in and hold losely so you can let go.
Click to expand...

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I don't use friction polish, but one question about the process concerns me. Might the frictional heat needed lead to cracking of some woods like pink ivory, snakewood, and the like?
 
Mike--Nothing wrong with the way you're doing it. Would be safer reaching under the mandrel. That cloth will sooner or later grab the blank & ruin your finish. Paper towel is safer. As far as pinching it & building up heat, that is the way Steven Russell [pro pen turner] showed me. Friction polish needs the heat. He ALWAYS uses Ren. Wax as a final coat.
 
Cav ... Good point there. I have found that heat IS the main reason/cause of woods splitting - crack - self-destruct, etc. I try to reach a fair temperature and then back off a bit and not get the interior of these troublesome woods to hot.

Of course working with DRY woods is also a better way to go. But then again there is also the risk of heating up the resins which will cause the same problems. ;)
 
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