Pimped out Pen Pro

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RAdams

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Apr 5, 2009
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As soon as I opened the box, I knew that the handle material i originally planned simply would not work. No firewood handles for this tool.

The handle is Homebrew PR with three colors of Mica. turned, and kinda sanded with some worn out 600. I am weird about my tool handles. I don't like to spend alot of time sanding and finishing them. I prefer the natural petina of time and sweat! ferrulle is a hose clamp.



The manufacturers, Our very own Bitshird (Ken), and Animefan (Andrew) of the famed http://www.woodchuck-tools.com did the engraving work. The engraving isn't just a scratch in the top of the tool. You would ruin the tool if you tried to grind it away. Excellent work!


Not all, but ALOT of the work of making this handle was done with the tool itself.
 

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That looks great. I wish I would have known about the engraving, that's nice having your name on it. By the way, I'm on my 12th pen since getting mine and have yet to change the little blade to next side. That little puppy is sharp and strong.
 
I got the bowl version of that tool, and I love it for roughing out large, unbalanced blanks. It leaves a nice finished surface, too.

The hose clamp is a great idea... That's a first for me.

BTW, thanks for your help on the other matter... Bomb's away!
 
I got the bowl version of that tool, and I love it for roughing out large, unbalanced blanks. It leaves a nice finished surface, too.

The hose clamp is a great idea... That's a first for me.

BTW, thanks for your help on the other matter... Bomb's away!



Keller, You are all right!

Thanks for the compliments on my handle!! I think it turned out pretty snazzy for sure!
 
Hey Ron if you want me to I can bore out a piece of brass to fit your handle.

Andrew you know how much I paid for that 4 ft piece of 1 inch brass??

Don't use solid brass pipe. Just go to the plumbing section and get 3/4" or 1" copper pipe. Just take your handle tendon down to just fit inside the ID of the pipe that you chose. Total cost.... <$1 if you purchase a coupling.
 
Hey Ron if you want me to I can bore out a piece of brass to fit your handle.

Andrew you know how much I paid for that 4 ft piece of 1 inch brass??

Don't use solid brass pipe. Just go to the plumbing section and get 3/4" or 1" copper pipe. Just take your handle tendon down to just fit inside the ID of the pipe that you chose. Total cost.... <$1 if you purchase a coupling.

Normally I don't, but we do not know what size Ron turned the tenon to, I use 3/4 or 1 inch copper pipe caps, I buy the 3/4 by the hundred for 46.00 per hundred, I turn the tang to .879 and drive the copper fitting on, BUT when dealing with a custom made handle like Ron's the ferrule is most likely going to need to be bored to match the tenon size, unless he got Very lucky. to do what it is supposed to a tenon has to fit very snugly on the tenon since this is the place where a break in the handle will begin, this is why we turn our wood handle tangs .004 to .005 over size then drive the tenon on with a dead blow hammer, after the work Andrew and I put in on the tool I'd much rather see it with a nice heavy ferrule.
The way he has it finished where would he chuck the handle to turn it down, with out trashing the back end of his beautiful handle, I suppose he could cut a coke bottle up, wrap it almost around the back of the handle put it in his Nova chuck if he has the pin jaws, just clamp it enough to hold it and put the live center in the tool hole and turn it to fit a piece of copper pipe, but pipe caps look a lot better with a rolled over end than just an open piece of pipe, wouldn't you agree, put the cap in the 4 jaw and drill a 1/2 inch hole, and behold a nice semi professional looking job.
Oh and it isn't brass pipe, it's solid bar stock, about 2.50 an inch.
 
Hey Ron if you want me to I can bore out a piece of brass to fit your handle.

Andrew you know how much I paid for that 4 ft piece of 1 inch brass??

Don't use solid brass pipe. Just go to the plumbing section and get 3/4" or 1" copper pipe. Just take your handle tendon down to just fit inside the ID of the pipe that you chose. Total cost.... <$1 if you purchase a coupling.

Normally I don't, but we do not know what size Ron turned the tenon to, I use 3/4 or 1 inch copper pipe caps, I buy the 3/4 by the hundred for 46.00 per hundred, I turn the tang to .879 and drive the copper fitting on, BUT when dealing with a custom made handle like Ron's the ferrule is most likely going to need to be bored to match the tenon size, unless he got Very lucky. to do what it is supposed to a tenon has to fit very snugly on the tenon since this is the place where a break in the handle will begin, this is why we turn our wood handle tangs .004 to .005 over size then drive the tenon on with a dead blow hammer, after the work Andrew and I put in on the tool I'd much rather see it with a nice heavy ferrule.
The way he has it finished where would he chuck the handle to turn it down, with out trashing the back end of his beautiful handle, I suppose he could cut a coke bottle up, wrap it almost around the back of the handle put it in his Nova chuck if he has the pin jaws, just clamp it enough to hold it and put the live center in the tool hole and turn it to fit a piece of copper pipe, but pipe caps look a lot better with a rolled over end than just an open piece of pipe, wouldn't you agree, put the cap in the 4 jaw and drill a 1/2 inch hole, and behold a nice semi professional looking job.
Oh and it isn't brass pipe, it's solid bar stock, about 2.50 an inch.



Leave it to me to try to do something cool, and mess the whole thing up. I will just put this on the back burner for now. I dodn't realize it had to have brass. I thought a hose clamp would work good, and was free. I don't have digital calipers, so i can't tell you what the mic'd size of the tenon is. I will just toss the whole thing in a drawer and get to it when i can find time and cash to shop for brass fittings then i will just throw some blackjack oak or something on it and call it good... I don't want to disrespect anyone by using the wrong ferrule or handle or anything. Sorry fellas.
 
I wanna know where my engraving was?:wink:
Landon Animefan wanted me to teach him how to engrave on Stainless

I wanna know where my engraving was?:wink:
Me 2. I think Ron is getting special treatment.hehehehe :laugh:
See the answer to Landon

Ron, you had a thread about RAK, you know you can make me a handle since I am waiting to get turning. That would be a double RAK.
You already have a handle I thought.

Ron
there is no disrespect, It just seems like you could get cut by the hose clamp screw,or get the tool hung on the tool rest, I think the handle is damned nice, and I think it would be an easy fix for you. There's always Epoxy, besides you're the first person I know of that's made a handle out of resin, pretty cool if you ask me! Besides I don't like brass ferrules, I prefer copper it's thicker than the store bought ferrules and you can get them at Lowes or the corner Hardware store,
 
HEY! How come mine didn't come with a hose clamp? :biggrin::tongue:

Ron your going to love it! But by now you already know that! :smile:
 
Well I am having a hard time with the learning curve of going from HSS to carbide i guess so it's not too big of a deal to sit it aside for a handle repair. Or i could just keep trying with this handle until it breaks and then make a new one... i dunno. I am sure i will figure it out over the next week or two.
 
Ron, you had a thread about RAK, you know you can make me a handle since I am waiting to get turning. That would be a double RAK.




I would be glad to make you a handle. It wouldn't be a resin handle, but it would be a handle!!
 
Thanks for all the feedback everyone! I am taking all this in and trying to make something that will be unique, and functional. In an attempt to make sure my new tool is safe and user friendly, I took it back to the shop for a closer look.

First, I checked the clearance of the hose clamp to the tool rest and banjo, etc. Because it will stay the same length and not be ground shorter and shorter, if it clears now, it will clear forever! There was about an extra inch of threaded strap that was in the way, so i trimmed that back, which caused a burr on the edge. I used a file to clean the edge up and now it is finger friendly. The screw housing gives a unique feel in the supporting hand.

I was even more concerned with leverage being a factor. I am a novice math do-er, and don't really understand all teh formulas involved and all that, but i drew a little diagram that i think is the correct basic principal??




Essentially, I don't think the ferrule area will be in much danger due to the short length of the handle. If the handle was longer, and the force was exerted further away from the tang, then it would be a concern, But with this handle, the force is exerted directly over the tang, so little force should be put on the clamp? Is that even close to correct?? I don't know..... I just don't want to smash this handle to start over for a ferrule issue... I will,,, I just dont wanna...
 

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Ron, as someone who has made hundreds of handles for my carbide tools I would advise you to replace your RESIN handle with something that is more stable. It is an accident just waiting to happen. And although a clamp is "unique" I wonder if there was any consideration to safety.

I commend you on the "bling" factor and the use of resin, but it simply is not a practical way to safely turn pens. Please take this in the right vain, I mean you no harm or harbour ill feelings, but I think "safety" first over aesthetics. The resin handle is very nice for display purposes but it can not handle (no pun intended) the work for daily use.
 
I got mine also . . .

I got mine . . . It even has my name on it . . .

"Tool Nut"

Steve
 

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