its_virgil
Member
I spent most of the evening searching for photography help. Looking in the jewelery, glass and polymer clay places and other artists who make small stuff like we do yielded some good links and helps for photography and scanning. Here is what I found. I haven't looked at all of them in detail but they seem sto be good for photographing small stuff. What they do can be applied to our pens. Have fun.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Photogrtaphy
http://209.196.177.41/contents.htm
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/directory/library/subject/9
http://www.webphotoschool.com/
http://www.shortcourses.com/index.htm
http://lapidaryart.com/projects_2.html
http://www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/10237/214/index.php
Scanning
http://www.scantips.com/
First you might wan to find the "sweet spot" on your particular scanner (for most scanners, that's just about dead center on the glass).....to do that, place a plain white sheet of paper on the face and scan (set scanner at 72 dpi) .... now look at your monitor
.......where you see shadows is NOT the place to put your item
SUMMARY...There are several options for scanning items and for creating a "background" color behind your item (depending partly on the item's size): --leave the lid open, and get a fairly black background)--mostly close the lid, and get a grayish background--place a sheet of paper over the back of the item, and get a grayish background though with shadows wherever the paper curves) ... or use a colored paper (....& if you can't get shadows right, use a darker paper so they won't show)--whenever the previous options allow a open space around he scanner lid where light can get in (or out), a black or white fabric can be draped over the entire scanner (this will keep the scanner light in, or keep the outside light out, or will reflect back any light hitting the sides that might escape)--place a shallow box, box lid, or frame over the item to get an even-toned background (of whatever color you've used on the inside back of the box).....may have to play with the depth of the box (by raising it with little feet, etc.) till you get any shadow that might result the way you want, or to avoid it .....do the same thing with a neutral colored matte board, etc., placing the board on risers of various kinds to elevate it--drape the item with some kind of fabric or stiff fabric like a carpet square ... this can produce good results or funky ones depending on exactly how it's done, and how much you want to play with it. Diane B.
Remember when choosing a background, to keep in mind that contrast is important!!.... so, if the item you're scanning is medium-to-dark, a pale background is good... however, if the item is light, it can get lost on a light background. Triche
For a small item (especially jewelry which may have reflective areas), PhotoCourse recommends just using a plastic translucent milk jug (gallon) with the bottom cut out, and the top (hole) enlarged for the camera lens. Position the bottle over the subject and shine a pair of floodlights on the outside of it... the light inside the bottle will be diffused by the translucent sides of the bottle.
...I found a translucent white plastic salad bowl ( about 11" diameter) .... I cut out a circle in the flat bottom of the bowl using a dremel attachment. I place a piece of soft gray card stock on my desktop for a background, place the item to be photographed in the center of the cardstock and then invert the bowl over the bead. I played with the position of the Ott light outside the bowl , placed my camera over the hole and snapped the picture. This has been working really well in that it eliminates so much glare...... not all my photo's are perfect...but I do believe they are a lot better than taking them 'bare naked'... studioschiek
http://www.libzoid.com/PhotoSet.html
http://www.glassartists.org/Gal6979_My_new_photo_set-up.asp
Lysle's version of a light box:
Now for the layperson's photo session. Start by getting a piece of cloth and a large cardboard box.--Cut the top and front out of the box. Cut the two sides on a curve from the top of the back, to the front of the bottom. The curve is arched (in)to the bottom back. The remainder is left only to support the back in an upright position. --Drape the cloth into the box so that you have a curved piece of cloth without any folds or creases. You might have to iron out some folds place in the cloth when you bought/stored it. The nice thing about this is you can have several different colors of cloth each that will augment the color of what you are potographing (this is refered to as a 'white way' and is what is done in comercials that do not have any floor or horizon lines)....--Place the camera on a tripod. Place the object on the cloth. --(Get a flood light, three are better, if you can afford it.) --Place one light in front of but slightly off to one side and up high (simulating the sun) and shining on the object. The light must have an area that lights the entire front of the object with the same intensity. --A second, dimmer light will be placed to the other side and down low. This light simulates sunlight reflected onto the object. --Then place another lamp shining on the cloth behind the object. Again this light should be of a relatively consistant intensity. This helps kill harsh background shaddows and is in effect simulating the sun shining on the back ground
http://www.conniefox.com/Education/StudioTour/ST-DigitalPhoto.htm
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Photogrtaphy
http://209.196.177.41/contents.htm
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/directory/library/subject/9
http://www.webphotoschool.com/
http://www.shortcourses.com/index.htm
http://lapidaryart.com/projects_2.html
http://www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/10237/214/index.php
Scanning
http://www.scantips.com/
First you might wan to find the "sweet spot" on your particular scanner (for most scanners, that's just about dead center on the glass).....to do that, place a plain white sheet of paper on the face and scan (set scanner at 72 dpi) .... now look at your monitor
.......where you see shadows is NOT the place to put your item
SUMMARY...There are several options for scanning items and for creating a "background" color behind your item (depending partly on the item's size): --leave the lid open, and get a fairly black background)--mostly close the lid, and get a grayish background--place a sheet of paper over the back of the item, and get a grayish background though with shadows wherever the paper curves) ... or use a colored paper (....& if you can't get shadows right, use a darker paper so they won't show)--whenever the previous options allow a open space around he scanner lid where light can get in (or out), a black or white fabric can be draped over the entire scanner (this will keep the scanner light in, or keep the outside light out, or will reflect back any light hitting the sides that might escape)--place a shallow box, box lid, or frame over the item to get an even-toned background (of whatever color you've used on the inside back of the box).....may have to play with the depth of the box (by raising it with little feet, etc.) till you get any shadow that might result the way you want, or to avoid it .....do the same thing with a neutral colored matte board, etc., placing the board on risers of various kinds to elevate it--drape the item with some kind of fabric or stiff fabric like a carpet square ... this can produce good results or funky ones depending on exactly how it's done, and how much you want to play with it. Diane B.
Remember when choosing a background, to keep in mind that contrast is important!!.... so, if the item you're scanning is medium-to-dark, a pale background is good... however, if the item is light, it can get lost on a light background. Triche
For a small item (especially jewelry which may have reflective areas), PhotoCourse recommends just using a plastic translucent milk jug (gallon) with the bottom cut out, and the top (hole) enlarged for the camera lens. Position the bottle over the subject and shine a pair of floodlights on the outside of it... the light inside the bottle will be diffused by the translucent sides of the bottle.
...I found a translucent white plastic salad bowl ( about 11" diameter) .... I cut out a circle in the flat bottom of the bowl using a dremel attachment. I place a piece of soft gray card stock on my desktop for a background, place the item to be photographed in the center of the cardstock and then invert the bowl over the bead. I played with the position of the Ott light outside the bowl , placed my camera over the hole and snapped the picture. This has been working really well in that it eliminates so much glare...... not all my photo's are perfect...but I do believe they are a lot better than taking them 'bare naked'... studioschiek
http://www.libzoid.com/PhotoSet.html
http://www.glassartists.org/Gal6979_My_new_photo_set-up.asp
Lysle's version of a light box:
Now for the layperson's photo session. Start by getting a piece of cloth and a large cardboard box.--Cut the top and front out of the box. Cut the two sides on a curve from the top of the back, to the front of the bottom. The curve is arched (in)to the bottom back. The remainder is left only to support the back in an upright position. --Drape the cloth into the box so that you have a curved piece of cloth without any folds or creases. You might have to iron out some folds place in the cloth when you bought/stored it. The nice thing about this is you can have several different colors of cloth each that will augment the color of what you are potographing (this is refered to as a 'white way' and is what is done in comercials that do not have any floor or horizon lines)....--Place the camera on a tripod. Place the object on the cloth. --(Get a flood light, three are better, if you can afford it.) --Place one light in front of but slightly off to one side and up high (simulating the sun) and shining on the object. The light must have an area that lights the entire front of the object with the same intensity. --A second, dimmer light will be placed to the other side and down low. This light simulates sunlight reflected onto the object. --Then place another lamp shining on the cloth behind the object. Again this light should be of a relatively consistant intensity. This helps kill harsh background shaddows and is in effect simulating the sun shining on the back ground
http://www.conniefox.com/Education/StudioTour/ST-DigitalPhoto.htm
