pepper mill

[Glenn McCullough]

This is a 10" spalted beech, the first one I've done without the knob on top. Not sure I'm ready to make the switch, I'll try one more. I followed the instructions, but had to re-drill most of the holes, so from now on, I'll measure the parts and determine my own size openings.

 

[avbill]

This is a nice modern design. The beech makes the pepper mill look elegant. I'm in the process of making five different types of pepper mills for my daughter in law. She loves pepper: black, white, red,and two others.

I'm going to five different woods. laminated in a diagonal, with the top piece to indicate the type of pepper. such as African Black wood for black pepper and praduak for red pepper. What way she will know which pepper is what.

So your not sure about the crushed grinder mechanism for the pepper mill? Why?


Bill Daniels [8D]

 

[Glenn McCullough]

Originally posted by avbill

This is a nice modern design. The beech makes the pepper mill look elegant. I'm in the process of making five different types of pepper mills for my daughter in law. She loves pepper: black, white, red,and two others.

I'm going to five different woods. laminated in a diagonal, with the top piece to indicate the type of pepper. such as African Black wood for black pepper and praduak for red pepper. What way she will know which pepper is what.

So your not sure about the crushed grinder mechanism for the pepper mill? Why?

Not thrilled about gluing the mrch in and the stainless of the other seems sturdier, but I have another mech like this one and will give it a try.


Bill Daniels [8D]

 

[toolcrazy]

That is a cool grinder. I have one turned, just need to put finish on it. I like the shape.

 

[Darley]

Glen nice pepper mill, good idea to insert the top screw into the pepper mill top, very nice piece of wood but not fancy of the shape ( this is my own feeling ) like more slimline I drill my blanks and set them up on madrel with own turned bushers

 

[Glenn McCullough]

Originally posted by Darley

Glen nice pepper mill, good idea to insert the top screw into the pepper mill top, very nice piece of wood but not fancy of the shape ( this is my own feeling ) like more slimline I drill my blanks and set them up on madrel with own turned bushers

Darley,
Thanks for the comments, this is the link to the mill that has no knob on top. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKCRUSHW.html

 

[Darley]

Glen thanks for the link, very interesting shaftless machanism but tell me how the pepper or salt getting chrused in this mechanism

 

[TellicoTurning]

Glenn,
I like it... also like the crush/grind mechanism... they let me be more creative and since I'm sometimes a little measurement challenged, the adjustable shaft length works great for me.

Great design.. I make most of mine in the more contemporary/modern styles.

Darley,
the grinder is a ceramic grinder that works just like the metal ones. The top has a piece that fits over the shaft, which is usually five sided, that turns the shaft and the ceramic grinder. There is a spring in the cap unit that makes a compression fitting over the shaft.

 

[TellicoTurning]

Originally posted by oobak

This is a 10" spalted beech, the first one I've done without the knob on top. Not sure I'm ready to make the switch, I'll try one more. I followed the instructions, but had to re-drill most of the holes, so from now on, I'll measure the parts and determine my own size openings.

Glenn,
I meant to post this in my previous post but hit send too soon.

On the drilling, I also tried to follow the instructions, but found that the outcome wasn't really to my liking... I didn't want to drill 3 holes in the body and then a fourth in the top... so I modified mine some what... also the instructions I got called for the top to sit on the shoulders of the base, but the only thing holding it on was the spring in the shaft driver that's planted in the top... that left the top wobbly.

I drill the first hold in the bottom at 1 3/4 about 3/4-1 inch deep.. it can vary as long as it's deep enough for the adjustment wheel to clear the bottom so the mill sits flat.
Then I drill the through hole from the bottom at 1 9/16" all the way through to the top. On long bodies, I have to reverse and meet in the middle of the body some where, unless you have a long enough bit extension that you can go all the way up. I use forstner bits, but a spade/paddle bit would do same thing.... you might have to watch the exit for tear out with the paddle..

for the top, I cut a 1/2-3/4" long tenon on the top to fit down inside the neck of the body. The tenon is then drill with a 15/16" bit to receive the driver (I don't know what the little spring device is actually called, but it does drive the mechanism). Drill deep enough to clear the end of the driver and leave some room for the shaft to actually go through the spring... otherwise the tops tend to fall off (DAMHIKT)

You can then cut the shaft down to what ever size you need. I usually cut the shaft with a large pair of pliers that has a good cutter and makes a fairly clean cut, then smooth the end of the shaft on the belt sander.

Once you get used to the little nuances of the C/G mechanism, I think you will like them.