Pentacryl or other Stabilizing Solutions

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Tanner

Tanner

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Has anyone tried Pentacryl Wood Stabilizer? I saw this is what some people on eBay are using to stabilize their blanks. I also saw on eBay they sell it for $36.00 per quart. However if you go here http://hooftrimmingtools.net/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&cat=8 it sells for $15.95 per quart and $47.95 per gallon. I'm going to try stabilizing and already purchased some Minwax Wood Hardener for about $10.00 per pint.

Scratch it, I spelled it wrong when I did the search the first time. There are 24 topics that came up spelling it correctly. I have some reading to do.

Ok, I read all posts on Pentacryl. I saw one person liked it, Mike in Canada. Some say it needs moisture to work. Others say you cannot use CA as a finish as CA won't stick to it, it must be lacquer or other type of finish.

I saw where one person said he does a 50/50 mixture of thinner and Polyurethane. He was asked what the thinner was, however the answer was never given. If you don't mind what do you use as thinner and what percentage of each thinner and polyurethane do you use if that is what you use. If there is something else that you have used that is better, could you explain how you made it. I've seen where some take a chunk of plexi and put it in acetone and use that. How big of a chunk and where do you get it?

Most of you here can make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I'm just looking to start with something better than a sow's ear.:) Thank you in advance for any help given.
 
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Tim,
That is an interesting site... but if they have power tools for hoof trimming, is this really for horse hooves or just a play on words... how many horses are going to stand and let you run a power tool over their hooves. Maybe I'm reading something there isn't...
 
i use pentacryl on green stuf, like flowering crape myrtle even. on punky stuff the same company has a similar product called polycryl. i've used both a lot, the pentacryl works great, like i said, on green stuff, the polycryl on punky stuff however, so the tech a WSSI stabilizing told me, the polycryl uses up the same space in punky wood that other stabiliziers do.......duh, i have spalted dogwood, treated it with the polycryl, it's been on the shelf for about 6 months.....gonna try a vacuum pump and some system three, that's supposed to be the ticket..........the dogwood has dryed and feels lots lighter than before the poly soaking. surely there is room inside for some of the system three resin.....
 
I am far from a expert on this subject. So far I have spent the last 6 months trying every thing that I could find to stabilize wood.
The first thing I would tell you is that the word---Stabilize is used to describe many differnt things----most common use is---- a product that keeps wood from moving or twisting.
The trick is to find something that will penatrate and harden the wood. This is a different thought than just to stabilize wood.
What I am working on right now is shut down because of the weather and the fact that I am remodeling the shop.
 
Well I picked up Minwax Wood Hardener, Polyurethane, Polyacrylic, polycryl is on its way, Resolute (replaced Nelsonite) is on its way, Alumilite is on its way. Finished the Minwax Wood Hardener. The Polyurethane is drying. The Polyacrylic is in the vacuum chamber right now. My wood blanks are dry, but it sounds like the Pentacryl is the choice if the wood is green.
 
Tim, that sounds like a pretty expensive pen blank [:D]
Good luck with your experiments.
I do mine the old fashion way.......buy them [:p]
 
I usually buy mine from AS, but I picked up some dry and soft cross cut spalted maple and cross cut striped ebony on eBay. The Minwax Wood Hardener came out a little darker and turned like Butter Brickle. I'm going to do all of them in Black Chrome Cigars. I did pick up some of BB's stabilized spalted maple at the show. I'll do one of them too. That will probably turn the best.[:I] The wife thinks I'm back in high school working on a science project.[:p]
 
Pentacryl is a Treatment of green, fresh cut woods that is recommended to hinder twisting and cracking of the wood.

Acrylic stabilization is a process that completely fills the voids and the internal cells of properly dried woods. The wood is thus "plasticised" and completely stabilized.

Pentacryl treated woods are difficult to "finish" using regular finishes. Nothing is easy to use as it is often like trying to paint oil based paint over water based paint. It goes on but it doesn't stick.

I find that there is no comparison when working with the two differently treated woods. Once treated with Pentacryl the wood CANNOT be treated with acrylics. The pros that do acrylic stabilization will not accept Pentcryl treatred woods for their process. The two processes will not mix.

Fred
 
BTW, don't bother asking any of the pro's that do acrylic stabilization about anything concerning their processes. The processes are very closely guarded trade secrets and they are not about to discuss anything other than what woods do well and how much the process will cost you (the consumer). I cazn tell you this much, a VAPOR PUMP costs 1,000's and one is definitely required for the process. AND that is but one of the pieces of equipment needed... a large autoclave is another... and then there is..., etc.

Fred
 
I have been working for several months on setting up a pro system useing PMMA. I am still not there ---YET. You are right about the cost but I think that you will find that the concern is someone getting killed.
This stuff is very toxic----if you tried and doing this the cheap way---you could get hurt or worse.
To be quit honest with you if I could get rid of all the stuff I have bought so far and just break even-----I would sell it today.
After messing with this I do not see how the PRO's can even afford to do this. They must be buying in bulk----ie-50 gallon drums.
Here's a good example----the blue dye that will work with PMMA cost $200.00 for one lb. I did not buy it because of the cost. I went and bought the Blue pigment that is used to color Resin. It will not penatrate the wood-- another $44.00 that did not work.
So even though it would be nice to get some help from the Pro's-------I really understand why they do not.
Just my little thoughts---now it's off to the shop and see if the last patch worked---LOL
 
Has anyone tried anything like Resonal 90c? That does not appear to be too toxic. Its just a water thin epoxy that cures with heat.

I have thought about checking into it more but have never taken the time. From what I have learned it is used in the powdered metal industry. I have also read that it has been used to preserve and stabalize dinosaur bones.

Scott
 
Hey Scott, here is a link to some discussions on Resinol 90c. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=270155&highlight=stabilization

I have not added Resinol 90c to the list of stabilizing solutions that I am trying. It looks like it only comes in a 4 gallon container. I have thus far tried Minwax Wood Hardener, Polyacrylic, Polyurethane, 50/50 Polyurethane/thinner, and Thompson's Water Seal. I still have Polycryl, Varithane, Alumilite and Nelsonite to try. If you give it a shot, let me know how it went.
 
Tim,
I use Pentacryl on a lot of woods/burls. As others have said it is a drying stabilizer for green wood. As such I have been very happy with it, minimizing cracks and warping. The wood still needs to properly dry out before finishing. I only use lacquer on larger projects and CA on all my pens. I have had no issues with the finish. Sounds like you want resin impregnated. I would suggest going to the links section on the home page and check out River Ridge Products. They have a trial offer for 4 blanks at $9. I have used their services and have been very happy.
Good Luck
JD
 
Wow, thanks for the link Tanner. That posting make it sound very promising, I have search a number of times and never turned up that posting. I wonder how for 4 gallons at $300 buck will go. I think this product has just moved up on my short list.

Scott
 
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