Pennies?

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iamrohn

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Oct 8, 2019
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Minneapolis, MN
I tried searching for some info but came up empty.
Would using pennies, or other US coins, for segmenting work out? Would they rapidly dull carbide tools? Too difficult to sand flat the sides?

I remember reading that brass washers are a common component, but I don't have any at home and a trip to the store just for a couple of those seems silly these days for a hobby and not selling the pen [emoji6]

I tried the [golden] plastic top from a Maxwell House coffee bucket but it didn't have the shine that metal does.

Thanks for the thoughts

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leehljp

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Some others may have more precise input and that would be welcome. IMO, the raised portions of a coin would show up with odd spacing around the blank, even though it is minute'. I have experimented with different thicknesses of brass and will say that the thicker ones are harder on the tool than the thinner ones. I have used .5mm and 1mm thick brass. The 1mm are doable but patience is needed and sharp tool necessary. I have not done copper but my understanding is that copper is more temperamental (my description) than brass or aluminum.

I do use carbide on occasion but I have found (for me) that the sharper the better and I can sharpen HSS finer than is available on carbide inserts. I keep a hone next to my lathe and drag the edge across the hone a couple of swipes about every 60 seconds or so. Therefore (again to me) the sharpness of my HSS gives me better results than carbide.

About once a year or two, I use brass sheets 1 mm or .5mm thick and lay out a grid, with a jig, drill holes for a particular size tube. I then cut semi round washers with a metal cutting sheers. With each odd shaped washer, I flatten it with a hammer. When added to the blank it sticks out in spots. I don't worry about that. It the beginning, I turn the lathe on full speed and begin taking tiny bites with my tool. I do NOT go fast but I may take 3 to 4 minutes before it is round and down to the blank. I Do NOT rush this portion. Then when it is the same as the blank all the way around, I turn with patience but still at a faster speed than I do for normal wood.
 
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skiprat

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Hank has made my point about the raised image causing glue gaps....
I think old coins can be used much more nicely than edge on only. It doesn't take expensive tooling to use them like this one....
1588530555475.png
 

tomtedesco

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Centennial, CO
There was a video on utube of a person turning a bowl from pennies. It worked well using HSS tools but the person stated to only use old pennies as the metal is all copper and not the blend of metals used to mint these days. Hope to see your work.
 

iamrohn

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Joined
Oct 8, 2019
Messages
68
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Some others may have more precise input and that would be welcome. IMO, the raised portions of a coin would show up with odd spacing around the blank, even though it is minute'. I have experimented with different thicknesses of brass and will say that the thicker ones are harder on the tool than the thinner ones. I have used .5mm and 1mm thick brass. The 1mm are doable but patience is needed and sharp tool necessary. I have not done copper but my understanding is that copper is more temperamental (my description) than brass or aluminum.

I do use carbide on occasion but I have found (for me) that the sharper the better and I can sharpen HSS finer than is available on carbide inserts. I keep a hone next to my lathe and drag the edge across the hone a couple of swipes about every 60 seconds or so. Therefore (again to me) the sharpness of my HSS gives me better results than carbide.

About once a year or two, I use brass sheets 1 mm or .5mm thick and lay out a grid, with a jig, drill holes for a particular size tube. I then cut semi round washers with a metal cutting sheers. With each odd shaped washer, I flatten it with a hammer. When added to the blank it sticks out in spots. I don't worry about that. It the beginning, I turn the lathe on full speed and begin taking tiny bites with my tool. I do NOT go fast but I may take 3 to 4 minutes before it is round and down to the blank. I Do NOT rush this portion. Then when it is the same as the blank all the way around, I turn with patience but still at a faster speed than I do for normal wood.
Wow, thanks for all that!
Regarding the raised portion, I was thinking of filing/sanding the coin flat on both sides first. Doing that though may be tremendously more work than just sourcing some brass sheets... on the shopping list for the next time I need grass seed or lawn bags from the big orange store ;)
 

iamrohn

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Oct 8, 2019
Messages
68
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Hank has made my point about the raised image causing glue gaps....
I think old coins can be used much more nicely than edge on only. It doesn't take expensive tooling to use them like this one....
View attachment 238241
oh now that is just absolutely beautiful and something to really strive for (I'm a long long time from that workmanship I'm sure)
I do like every bit about how you've used the coins, just stunning!
 

iamrohn

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Oct 8, 2019
Messages
68
Location
Minneapolis, MN
There was a video on utube of a person turning a bowl from pennies. It worked well using HSS tools but the person stated to only use old pennies as the metal is all copper and not the blend of metals used to mint these days. Hope to see your work.
I'll have to look for that video. And good call about using only old pennies... hmm, I seem to remember something about pre-1920 or something there was harder metals, and currently too. There was a pocket of time with coins I might like. Or maybe I'm mis-remembering it entirely :laugh:
 

tomtedesco

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Just thinking out loud here. Using a penny would require sanding the coin on both sides to make it flat and not see any gaps between it and the blank material. Could you use a piece of copper tubing cut in half and flattened? Soldering two pieces of flat tubing together may also give you a silver line that may look good.
 
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