Pen mill misshaps

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Dick

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2011
Messages
3
Help !!! I am new to pen turning,with a small measure of success so far.
Recently while drilling (spot facing) with tubes glued in to size proper lengths on two blanks sized 5/8 x 5/8 x length of tubes + 1/8 the wood
split apart as the mill face touched the wood.I have had better results when I use 3/4 X 3/4 sized blanks,any suggestions would be much appriciated.Thanks for your great pen turning web site !!
Dick from Nunica
nunicaguy@aol.com
 
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Welcome..

Pen mills can be a major source for pain to the beginning turner. Depending on the wood, you could try to soak the ends with CA to help harden it up.. Also some mills are sharper than others. Its a good idea to learn how to sharpen them up (I use a small diamond file on the flat sides)...
 
Definitely soak the ends in thin CA. I forgot last night and had a major chipout. Luckily, it was an intact piece and easy to save. Quick soaking with CA on all ends and no more problems. Well, no problems after I removed myself from the blank.
 
Not knocking pen mills; but, I don't have this problem with using a disk sander method. If you have a disk/belt sander, you may want to give it a try. Each turner has their own preferred method. I used a mill until I tried the sander.
 
Rangertrek said:
Not knocking pen mills; but, I don't have this problem with using a disk sander method. If you have a disk/belt sander, you may want to give it a try. Each turner has their own preferred method. I used a mill until I tried the sander.
Click to expand...

+1 on the disc sander. When I first started I began saving up for a pen mill and used the disc sander until I had saved enough. By the time I had saved enough, I realized that the sander was a much better option.
 
I cut the blanks close to length with my bandsaw, drill, glue in tubes, there should be about 1/16th inch on each end left over. I then insert bushings and turn blank to cylindrical, remove from mandrel, insert round blank in lathe collet and face off both ends. I know this takes time, and I ain't saying it is right, it's just the way I do it.

Ben
 
I use my pen mill in my drill press at the slowest speed and go real slow and easy. Only had one blow out, on a acrylic blank, which probably wouldn't have happened if I had turned the blank down some first. I have since set up a sanding pad to mount to my chuck, with the blank on an appropiate size dowel in the tailstock. Just ease it up close to the pad and sand the blank while holding it with your hand.
 
Rangertrek said:
Not knocking pen mills; but, I don't have this problem with using a disk sander method. If you have a disk/belt sander, you may want to give it a try. Each turner has their own preferred method. I used a mill until I tried the sander.
Click to expand...

I sand mine to length with a disc sander. I mounted my pen mill in a pin vise with a chuck,

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Pin-Vise-with-Precision-Chuck/productinfo/500-51164/

and turn it by hand in the blanks to remove any glue from the inside and to make sure the ends are square to the tube. Turning it by hand prevents the tearout I was having with it mounted in a drill.

Sharon
 
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I just use a pen mill in a drill, or the sanding belt for brittle woods like bankisa and easy to split woods. when i use the sanding belt i kind of just "wing it" and it usually turns out fine.
 
shull said:
Sharp penmill in a cordless hand-drill on a slow speed, Never had a problem.
Click to expand...

Not to jinx you any, but I would say that your day is coming when you do have a episode ... and the results ain't going to be pretty either. Why take the chance go ahead and use ANYTHING other than your hand to hold the blank. :eek::eek::eek:

As for chip out problems, etc., it is always best to have a very sharp mill. Dull rips, sharp cuts ... just like scary sharp cutting tools do the work without a problem.
 
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