Pen blank drying

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Cut your wood in long pieces, 3/4" X 3/4" X 18" to 24". Stack it with a space in between and let it dry for around 6 weeks. You do not need to coat the ends, you need to let the long pieces loose most of there moisture. Then cut them into blank size and let dry another few weeks. To test to see if it is dry enough to use, drill a couple and let them set for 2 or 3 days and see if the tube slides in easy. If it is tight let it dry more. I've cut and dried thousands of blanks like this. You will get a small amount of checking on the long pieces while there loosing most of there moisture but after you cut to blank size there will be no more checking.
 
Packrat,
I checked your location, you don't have the "advantage" that we Northerners do. I use the main trunk line from my furnace for drying blanks in the winter. Burls furthest away from the furnace, easy drying blanks right next to the furnace. It's a real gentle way to dry the blanks. Each time the furnace comes on the blanks warm up, then cool off. Almost never any degrade when drying. They're going to get a lot of drying this weekend, temps to go below zero Sunday morning[:0]

I suggest that you cut them more like 1" square when wet. Some burl will twist like a pretzel from internal drying stresses. Some of the blanks (if cut 3/4 square) might not square up to a big enough dimension when dry.
 
"Packrat" .. go here and on the left side of his site check out "BOILING WOOD." ...
http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/index.html

I have found the boiling method to be quite successful in preparing green, fresh cut woods of all types - especially burls - for faster drying with very, very little loss, way less than 2% if that much. Just be sure and follow his directions to the letter and try it for yourself. I have dried wood after the procedure in less than half the normal drying time. I have yet to lose anything to cracking. Some warping maybe, but that always has been turned away.

I use the turkey fryer from Northern Handiman for my boiling tank.
- http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200186224_200186224 -

It comes with everything needed to do the process and all you need to add is a propane tank for a fuel source and the water. Harbor Freight still refuses to carry this kit as they do not want to be exposed to the stupidity of someone frying their turkey too fast and burning themselves, or worse, burning down their houses. (At least that is what my local store's manager told me!)
 
Weighing them also is a standard way of telling, when they no longer lose weight. Sawdust drying also works, just keep sawdust changed or you get interesting things growing, like spalting. Wood is returning to nature, black lines are rot...
 
This is just an idea, has anyone ever tried to dry by burying the blanks in salt? Inside a plastic bag, this may work. Will someone try this and let me know how it works? I am happy with my wood dryer. [}:)]
Johnnie
 
Instead of common - or uncommon - salt try using SILICIA GEL . This is the material used to dry flowers and is available from better craft stores. The gel can be heated and reused again and again.

IMHO, it seems to me that salt would contaminate the wood and could cause problems for any metal used later on in making your pen. :D
 
I've been toying with the idea of getting an old dishwasher and gutting it and putting a 60-100 watt light bulb in the bottom to generate some heat to "kiln dry" the blanks.
 
I have been looking for our Ron Popeal "Food Dehydrator". Don't laugh I know you either "have" one or "had" one. I used to make Jerky in it but I figured it would dry pen blanks just fine. What do you think?

Safe Turning......
 
I replaced my old upright freezer with a new one. I'd like to turn the old one into a dryer. Is the 60 - 100 watt bulb all I need? Seems like I'd also need a small fan to blow wet air out of the box. Anyone with any experience with this? Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Gary
 
Ive had success with cutting the blanks 3/4" square, 6" lengths and then laying out in a cake pan and filling it with denatured alcohol for about 2 days. After that I wrap each piece in newspaper, stack them in a box and put the box in house temp (closet shelf works for me) for about 30 to 40 days. Ive done this with fresh cut cherry, maple, mulberry, lilac and pear. Ive lost a couple to cracks but mostly because the cut was too close to the center heart of the tree limb.
 
Try drilling holes along the top of the freezer for outlets and on the sides at the bottom to allow air to enter. The heat from the light bulb will create the "air flow" and remove the moisture over a period of time. Just have more air holes at the top than inlet holes in the bottom. The sides of the freezer are definitely much easier to get to than the bottom. Be sure they are cut in such a way as to be above the inside floor of the freezer.

To dry the wood faster, try reading Steve Russell's articles on boiling the green wood first. The process works wonders if you follow the directions given.

Here is the link: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/woodturning-education-articles.html

Look on the left side for the sub-link to BOILING WOOD. Be sure to read the other articles that look to be of interest to you. Steve is also a member of the IAP and posts often.

Put your boiled wood into the freezer/kiln for faster drying! :D
 
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