PEG-1000 for blank stabilizing

[BillATsetelDOTcom]

I have searched and got no results.

I have several blanks that are just a little too "loose grained" to turn nicely. I have ruined more blanks than I have turned successfully. I have never looked into blank stabilizing before - but another teacher I work with (he used to be the carpentry teacher) recommended using PEG-1000 to stabilize. From what he could remember, he said you only soaked the wood in the product and that was it. Quick and easy.

thanks in advance!
Bill

 

[Dario]

If memory serves me right, the ones I read about PEG stabilization is for drying to deter cracking...not to impregnate the voids/cracks of blanks

 

[DWK5150]

I think PEG is just for drying wet wood. Why dont you stabalize them with CA as you turn. I have done it a few times and it works pretty good.

 

[Skye]

Like was said, if you have some loose wood, were able to stabilize it to the point of stone, you're still going to have voids. The fact that you cannot stabilize something like that means you'll probably have a little tear-out too. Keeping that in mind, learning how to fill those voids and tear-outs with CA (and some dust) is a must.

I'm in the same boat, havent tried it yet but know it's just a matter of time till I have to. Havent turned any punky funky wood yet.

 

[chigdon]

I don't think there is any sort of do-it-yourself stabilization that compares to commercial stabilization especially for punky woods. The other thing about PEG is that it limits your finishing options tremendously. That is what all three Moulthrops use/did use with green wood. Their finish (which they have never disclosed) is definately some concoction including Epoxy. I have been told you are limited to an epoxy finish after using PEG. Maybe CA would work but who knows?

 

[gerryr]

I've successfully used thin CA on several spalted woods as well as ambrosia maple. You just have to keep saturating the wood as you turn it down. I also saturate the ends when the pen mill gets close to the tube because even a really sharp mill can tear up spalted wood. It takes a bit of CA, but it's certainly a lot cheaper than buying stabilized wood.

 

[Chuck B]

A friend of mine posted this on another forum it might be worth a look. I'll post the response from the company also

http://www.ewoodcare.com/products/primers_epoxies/epoxies.html

The mixed viscosity of RotFix is going to be slightly higher than water. The maximum penetration into punky material is hard to precisely measure due to variations in the porosity of the coated material. The polymer molecules are large so they will only go as far as the spaces in the substrate allow. The RotFix will flow and seek to self level itself in pockets. In boatbuilding there is a technique used called “vacuum bagging†where the substrate in enclosed in a membrane and the resin is “pulled†into it using a vacuum pump. This is probably the best way to achieve good saturation. Your technique of coating from both the inside and the outside sounds like a good one. We’ve never tried it so I can’t tell you how it will work. RotFix will have an amber color when it cures. Our Clear Coat epoxy cures water-clear and has been used by turners to consolidate soft wood for turning. Like Clear Coat, RotFix will cure hard enough to be turned. My suggestion would be to try RotFix and see if you can achieve the results you are looking for. It seems to me that corn cobs are porous enough to get well saturated by the RotFix. The amber color of the cured resin should be masked by the color of the cobs. RotFix is designed to cure in wet substrate which I am thinking will be an advantage in corn cobs. If the amber color is unacceptable then I would try our Clear Coat. Similar viscosity to RotFix and clear when cured. Disadvantage is that Clear Coat is not designed to cure in wet substrate.

Check out this product also.

http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm