Painting vs. Reverse Painting

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Yegg

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I just got done turning a "trash wood" blank where I had reverse painted the blank. I think that is the correct term for painting the inside of the blank after drilling the hole. After letting it dry over night, I went to glue my tube in. The paint build up made it a very tight fit indeed. Is that normal? After the pen was finished, I could see a couple of very small spots where the tube scratched the paint away and I could see a bit of tube through the translucent resin. What did I do wrong?

Elliott
 
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I think you have to make the hole larger in diam.to allow for the thickness of the paint,is what I'm guessing.I have yet to try acrylics,but that's what I plan to do when I attemp it.



Steve
 
I usually paint both the inside of the blank and color the tube. Sometimes just black marker or red marker, but paint works too.

Try not to have globs of paint as it stays soft and scrapes easily.

Pick a drill bit that wil be a bit loose when testing before painting.

Lots of room for wildly different effects with multiple layered cilors.
 
I never take the recommended bit size as gospel. I measure the tube withe calipers and then select the bit that is a tab oversized. After drilling the blank, I paint the tube and the inside of the blank with spray paint and let it them dry overnight. The chances of the paint scratching off the tube and the blank in the same spot to show through is almost nil.
 
you re going to get a bunch of answers ,, but ,,i try to keep the coating on the blank as thin as possible and i also add a drop or two of paint to the epoxy i use to glue the tube in with
 
I use acrylic paints and just a touch of water to thin it a bit. I also color the epoxy with just a tinge of the same color as the reverse painted blank. I use an artist brush to get the paint into the hole of the blank then use a tube of the same kit to run it into the blank hole to get the color in with out globs and thickness. I then wait at least over night to work it. I never had to use another drill bit. Carl
 
First, a disclaimer, I have limited experience with reverse painting and painting the tube. To date what has worked for me is an acrylic model paint applied with a cotton swab to the inside of the hole and the tube. One coat to the blank and usually two to the tube. This has not required using a larger bit for the hole. Drying time has been about an hour. Just my $0.02 (and it may not even be worth that much).
 
On the lighter colors I buy pre painted white tubes. It works great. The only issue is if you look real careful you can sometimes see the glue inside. Reverse painting prevents that.
I must say though I have never reverse painted as of yet. It is one of the next things I will be trying. One the red or brown/amber blanks the brass tub enhances the pen in my opinion.
 
There is one consideration that has not been mentioned:
How much thickness is left on the tube, when it is turned?? IF the wall is thin already, try to avoid making the hole larger--if it is a cigar pen (very thick wall), using a bigger bit poses no problems.

If you want to keep the hole small, spray paint the inside of the hole--I suggest RustOLeum primer, comes in white, black, grey and a couple other colors if you go to a well-stocked store. Let it "dry" at least overnight and preferably a couple days.

CA glue is more likely to smear the glue than epoxy, and epoxy can be tinted, CA does not like colors.

That is the "short version". I wish you good colors!!
Ed
 
I buy spray paint from the dollar store and give a couple quick shots inside the blank and on the tube. the testors model paints never seemed to dry right or fast enough for me.
 
I use testors paint with a swab and just paint the inside of the blank. Has worked okay so far, but you have to be careful of the color you use as it will change the final look. To speed up drying time I use a $15 hair drier for about 30 secs from each end of the blank (usually 2 at a time using channel locks). I also will put a drop or two of paint in the 5min epoxy when I glue the barrel in.
 
Paint both, why not. I'm with Ed on the primer. If I'm using paint, I've bought several colors from auto parts store, the paint that's supposed to match factory colors, I think it's Duo-color or something like that, better paint than basic Rustoleum, IMO. If I'm experimenting with different colors on the tube or whatever then it's Acryl model paint, then put it in a hot air cooker I have @ lowest setting, dries quick.
 
Bocere1 said:
Paint both, why not. I'm with Ed on the primer. If I'm using paint, I've bought several colors from auto parts store, the paint that's supposed to match factory colors, I think it's Duo-color or something like that, better paint than basic Rustoleum, IMO. If I'm experimenting with different colors on the tube or whatever then it's Acryl model paint, then put it in a hot air cooker I have @ lowest setting, dries quick.
Click to expand...
If you are refering to Duplicolor, that is the only brand I have had fail and let loose while turning.
 
To add to the thread; I was walking down the aisle at Home Depot yesterday and I noticed their spray paint display had changed. They have the paints in many more colors and arranged by color.
 
Monty said:
Bocere1 said:
Paint both, why not. I'm with Ed on the primer. If I'm using paint, I've bought several colors from auto parts store, the paint that's supposed to match factory colors, I think it's Duo-color or something like that, better paint than basic Rustoleum, IMO. If I'm experimenting with different colors on the tube or whatever then it's Acryl model paint, then put it in a hot air cooker I have @ lowest setting, dries quick.
Click to expand...
If you are refering to Duplicolor, that is the only brand I have had fail and let loose while turning.
Click to expand...

Interesting, you think it was the paint? While I usually use ca on tubes I believe I've only used epoxy when I've used that paint because I wanted an all around even coat so there was no visible steaks thru a translucent tube. I should say I mean better depth of color and a better less wasteful nozzle when I say it's better than Rusto. Haven't had any fail that I recall but now that you mention that....
 
I use acrylic paint I paint the tube by putting it in the lathe and turning it on then take the acrylic paint and put a small amount on the figure and slide it across the turning tube. very nice coat and even coat of paint.
 
My guess is that what you did wrong was to leave a rough spot inside the hole and you had a paint build up around that rough spot. When you pushed in the tube you scraped away the paint around the rough spot.

I claim some experience and success on this issue. I've made over 10,000 acrylic pens over the last four years and I've back painted every one.
1. Your drill bit needs to be very sharp so it doesn't leave rough spots to catch paint build ups, use a file to smooth out the inside of the blank before painting.
2. I don't use a larger bit, but not all recommended bits are made at the correct size.
3. I use acrylic craft paint and match the colors, I use a q-tip for a brush, and I use the paint right out of the bottle, no thinning. Spray paint works just as well, probably better, but I have about 120 colors of acrylic paint and I can't find spray paint in that many colors.
4. I use thick CA to glue tubes. CA does not dissolve acrylic craft paint. Epoxy works just as well, but it is much slower. With CA it takes some practice to insert a tube in a snug fitting blank hole without getting it stuck half way in, once you start pushing it in, don't stop until it is all the way in.
5. I never paint the tubes. That would be like wearing two seat belts, just in case.
 
Bocere1 said:
Monty said:
Bocere1 said:
Paint both, why not. I'm with Ed on the primer. If I'm using paint, I've bought several colors from auto parts store, the paint that's supposed to match factory colors, I think it's Duo-color or something like that, better paint than basic Rustoleum, IMO. If I'm experimenting with different colors on the tube or whatever then it's Acryl model paint, then put it in a hot air cooker I have @ lowest setting, dries quick.
Click to expand...
If you are refering to Duplicolor, that is the only brand I have had fail and let loose while turning.
Click to expand...

Interesting, you think it was the paint? While I usually use ca on tubes I believe I've only used epoxy when I've used that paint because I wanted an all around even coat so there was no visible steaks thru a translucent tube. I should say I mean better depth of color and a better less wasteful nozzle when I say it's better than Rusto. Haven't had any fail that I recall but now that you mention that....
Click to expand...
I blame the failure on the paint because when the tube came out, there ws not a speck of paint on it. My normal procedure is to spray paint the tube and inside of the blank, let both dry over night, then glue in with thick CA. On the occasional time I've had a failure, there have been areas on the tube with no glue coverage.
 
Okay, ready for one more? I spray paint the tube and then spray a little paint in the cap of the spray can and use a Q-tip to swab the paint in the blank. Some times a second coat is needed. Yes, drill to accommodate paint if needed. I too use spray primers.

Now, one more thing not mentioned......file the end/edge of the brass tube before paint. Sometimes there is a sharp edge or burr that makes a great scraper when inserted in the painted blank. Scuffing the tube with sandpaper can leave a sharp edge. Don't chamfer much, just take off the sharp edge.

Okay, take everyone's advise, get in the shop and get back to us with your results. Go...Now....Turn, Turn.....:biggrin:
 
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