Paint not sticking

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HeathRiley

HeathRiley

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2005
Messages
19
Location
Portland, OR, USA.
I am having problems with my reverse painting.
The paint is having a heck of a time sticking to the blanks.

At first I figured it was that I didn't clean them well enough after using Pam spray to lubricate while drilling. I switched to using soapy water and then to pure water with the same results.
I then thought that maybe the Norseman drill bits might be leaving too smooth of a surface for the paint to stick to. I roughed the holes up with a round file and no dice.

The problem doesn't seem to relate to the material. Both the hand cast resins and the acrylics have had poor results.

I'm using Ceramcoat paints and generic q-tips. Some colors of paint seem to do better than others. The black usually does a good job, the white is fair, but green, brown, and purple just smear around.

Before I run out and pick up a different brand of paint, I want to make sure that I'm not missing something.

Have any of you had issues with certain colors of Ceramcoat, or Ceramcoat in general?
Should I be drilling the holes larger and priming first or putting on multiple coats?
What method are you using to apply paint, especially for 7mm holes?

Any thoughts or recommendations are greatly appreciated.
 
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All good questions! I've been using ceramcoat for the past couple of months with good success. How long is your dry time before gluing your tubes in? Are you also painting your tubes and if so with what? What type of glue are you using? I try to do atleast 2 coats of paint. With the lighter colors I'll do several coats so sometimes a larger hole is needed. For a 7mm I use the Qtip still. That's all I can think of off the top of my head, I'm sure other will chime in with their experiences.
 
I have been using Delta Creative Ceramcoat for 3 or so years now with excellent results in all colors. Not sure what I am doing different other than I do NOT use any kind of "lube" when drilling. I drill at 2,000 rpm for everything I do and have not had a need. I also usually do a couple of coats, depending on the color and I rinse out the inside of the blank with acetone before painting. I then use either CA or epoxy to glue in the tubes and do NOT paint the tubes. I apply one coat, let it dry for 30-45 minutes, then apply a second coat. I then let it all dry at least 24 hours before working with it.
 
To clarify: the paint isn't adhering/ spreading/ covering like it should when wet. I'm not having issues with dry paint peeling or reacting with the glue. I'll try the acetone and see if that helps.
 
I've had the same problem as Heath. I don't use any lube and drill at 500rpm. I am using the Delta Creative Ceramcoat, started with Silver, and also the white, but neither seem to take to the inside of the blank, even after 2 or 3 coats, the coverage is very poor.
 
I would not use primer unless it was the final color wanted. That will be the show coat if you prime the inside of the hole. If you could find a clear primer, then that might help. I have never seen one, but that does not mean there is not a clear primer.
Charles
 
I don't think "smooth" is going to hurt you, but the PAM? I'd bet on it. I go down to about 4000MM on the inside of my blanks and airbrush with Createx Auto Air. It's paint made for trick stuff on autos, MC's, etc. Stick the cone inside the blank, push the button and pull it out. "BE QUICK" Both ends!!!!! Probably the worst thing you can do is get in a hurry. Allow it to fully DRY!!!!!!! This works for me!!
 
HeathRiley said:
To clarify: the paint isn't adhering/ spreading/ covering like it should when wet. I'm not having issues with dry paint peeling or reacting with the glue. I'll try the acetone and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

There may be residue on the drill bit that is transferring to the inside of the hole. Clean the drill bit with acetone.
 
MesquiteMan said:
Check your Ceramcoat when you buy it. Some are listed as opaque while others are listed as semi-opaque. It will say on the label.
Click to expand...

Curtis, thanks for that tidbit....I'd never noticed that. I have noticed that some of my Ceramcoat paints were not as opaque as others but had never read the label....imagine that! Heading out to the shop now to look! :redface:
 
OK. I've tried cleaning my bits and the holes with acetone. It doesn't seem to make any difference.

ctubbs said:
I would not use primer unless it was the final color wanted. That will be the show coat if you prime the inside of the hole. If you could find a clear primer, then that might help. I have never seen one, but that does not mean there is not a clear primer.
Charles
Click to expand...

Charles, thanks for checking me on my brain fart...of course I wouldn't prime it.

MesquiteMan said:
Check your Ceramcoat when you buy it. Some are listed as opaque while others are listed as semi-opaque. It will say on the label.
Click to expand...

Curtis, there is no indication anywhere on the bottle in regards to the opaqueness :(
However, this seems to fit inline with what I'm experiencing. It seems that with certain colors I have to apply them in micron-thin coats in order to achieve a nice even coverage. At that rate, I'd probably have 10 coats before I was ready to glue in my tubes.
With the Black and Dolphin Grey, I can get by with just one coat. The White takes one or two.

Thank you for all your responses so far.
 
seamus7227 said:
I havent seen anyone post this yet, but Heath, please dont take offense, have you shaken the can first?
Click to expand...

No offense taken, Seamus. We all miss the little things from time to time.
I have been shaking the bottles first, but to be doubly sure, I just ran out to the shop
and shook the living daylights out of Bambi Brown. The results were just as poor as before :(
 
I just checked my bottles and most of them say opaque. Then again, I only buy the ones that say opaque so that is probably the reason! There is definitely a difference and it will say on the bottle if it is opaque. If yours don't say it, then reason would suggest that they are not opaque.
 
I think it might be the Q-tips try a standard art brush so you can load up more paint. Don't be afraid to over due it for you can spread it around. Some paint may have different viscosity and certain metallic and glitter colors will not give good coverage just because they are more transparent. You can try to thicken paint by keeping the cap off or by refrigerating. Having been in the craft and hobby business my entire adult life most of the time it is just the process although certain colors may cause different results and thus require more coats. I hope this is a help to you at least that is what it sounds like to me.
 
MesquiteMan said:
I just checked my bottles and most of them say opaque. Then again, I only buy the ones that say opaque so that is probably the reason! There is definitely a difference and it will say on the bottle if it is opaque. If yours don't say it, then reason would suggest that they are not opaque.
Click to expand...

What colors do you have in opaque? I didn't see any of these when I was at the craft store (that doesn't mean they weren't there). Looking at the Delta Creative catalog, all I can find are opaque blue, red, and yellow.

Once again, opacity does seem to be the problem. I just scuffed up some acrylic rod with 220 grit sandpaper, gave it a nice scrub down with acetone, and then painted multiple stripes around it in varying colors. The black and gray went on easily, with smooth results, and great coverage. All the other colors had fair to poor results, requiring much more paint to cover up the rod...Bambi Brown being the worst offender.

I think I'll be heading down to the art store (not craft store) to pick up some paint that is more consistent as I don't feel like mixing my own colors.
 
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