Organization?

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WoodChucker

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Just curious how some of you organize your pen parts and blanks? Do you use those clear plastic pen containers or have you come up with a better solution? Also, with pen blanks, how many do you try and keep on hand? Do you leave them as one piece or do you cut them to a ruff size for when you need them? I'm new at this and already I have to stop and dig through boxes of stuff to find what I'm looking for, so I figure I better get a grip on it soon before I bury myself. :D

Thanks......R.T.
 
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I keep bushings in the little nut and bolt drawer organizer, one set of bushings per drawer, labled, very easy to find what I want and I can reorganize them as I like.
pen kits stay in there bag in a shoe box+ size plastic container, as I hae many under development at once I can carry them wherever I am most comfortable to work. I do most of my designing on my couch. tried the turning there but was quickly informed I could start looking for my second wife if I ever did that again.
blanks are kept in one piece, some of them large, until I know what I want to do with them. I keep them in boxes according to there value to me. my favorites box is full of wood i havn't found the courage to ruin yet. actually I kep burls, ebony, the expensive exotics, and anything from B.B. in my best box. then I have nice but not the best box, then there is the will have to have something added to it box for laminations, combination blanks etc. they are all big boxes so there is still plenty of digging going on. maybe wee bitty shelves. sort of like a lumber yard for my sons tonka toys would work better.
 
My shop lacked drawers for a long time but as soon as I got making pens and small turnings , I started making drawers under my bench with dividers in them for all the small parts. I have one large drawer full already and have to finish off a couple more and install them when I get time.
W.Y.
 
I have several of these organizers set up for different types of pen kits. I don't normally keep this many kits at one time, but these are for a large Christmas order I just took last week. I keep my blanks organized in drawers and bins according to the type of wood, how much of it I have, and how valuable it is to me. Like Daniel, I have several blanks that I love to look at but can't find the courage to drill a hole into because I don't want to ruin them.

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I use plastic parts cases (available at any hardware store) for the kits I use most often (slimlines, cigars, gent jrs). Each gets it's own box, since I tend and assemble one type of kit at a time. For my blanks, I have separate boxes for each continent (except Antartica, as I haven't seen any blanks offered from their native trees [:o)]). FYI, the Europe box is the smallest and the Asia box the loargest. I also keep a box for wood that I'm planning on cutting into blanks (mostly giveaways from friends) and a separate box for "great" blanks that I need to do something special with. [8D]
 
Thanks everyone, appreciate all the ideas! At first I was thinking about a fishing tackle box for some things. But that might be a little awkward for in the shop, could work for going to craft shows, hey?

How about your blanks, do you write on them with a marker to keep track of what type of wood they are? I can see that could be a real problem if you keep a lot of different kinds of blanks on hand.

Anyway, thanks for sharing your ideas!

R.T.
 
Originally posted by WoodChucker
<br />Thanks everyone, appreciate all the ideas! At first I was thinking about a fishing tackle box for some things. But that might be a little awkward for in the shop, could work for going to craft shows, hey?

How about your blanks, do you write on them with a marker to keep track of what type of wood they are? I can see that could be a real problem if you keep a lot of different kinds of blanks on hand.

Anyway, thanks for sharing your ideas!



R.T.
Click to expand...

I keep my blanks in shoe boxes, to avoid mix-ups, I do not put blanks of similar looking woods in the same box. For example I have one box with Afr. Blackwood, Pink Ivory and Am. Holly - no mix up here. The whole lot is organized in that way that I write the content in the front of the box on masking tape. The blank boxes are stored in a large Rubbermaid shelf. My pen kits are stored in large Plano boxes aas described before, here I write also the type of kit on the front, so finding a special kit is easy. With the pen kits is also the need bushing stored, one compartment of the kit box is reserved for the bushings. In a fishing tackle box I store mandrels, drill bits and other stuff.
Rudy
 
Thanks Rudy, good tip about not putting blanks of similar looking woods in the same box. I'll be glad when I reach a point where I know which pen blanks I like best and stop buying a few of each just to see how they look. I feel like a kid in a candy store when I see all those pretty colors, just gotta have one of everything, lol. I've already got a few blanks that I'm going to need to go back and look up because I'm not sure what they are now. Thanks again!

R.T.
 
Eventually I want to have an extra mandrel shaft for each set of bushings.
It may seem exhorbatant, but I have at least once mixed up the order on a few pens I don't do often.
It will also allow me to easily work on more than one pen at a time.
I have a tendency to be impatient when finishing .
 
I have 3 mandrels. I also have a set of holes for them ... a piece of wood with holes to stick the mandrels in while not in use or unfinished pens. Very handy when waiting for something to dry.
 
FYI: I was advised when purchacing several kits of the same kind, not to take all of the parts from the kits and empty them all together. Some of the kits parts when made are threaded by hand. Bill B. from Arizona Silhouette said that on some kits when he recieves them, he gets a big box with all of the parts mixed together and he has to go through and match up the threads of each individual part because threads do not match. What I mean is that on some kits, not all, each center band will have a different thread and will only match one particular CB adapter, or one cap will only match up with one insert. It takes him hours of sorting to match up the threaded parts and put the kits together.
 
Originally posted by wayneis
<br />FYI: I was advised when purchacing several kits of the same kind, not to take all of the parts from the kits and empty them all together. Some of the kits parts when made are threaded by hand. Bill B. from Arizona Silhouette said that on some kits when he recieves them, he gets a big box with all of the parts mixed together and he has to go through and match up the threads of each individual part because threads do not match. What I mean is that on some kits, not all, each center band will have a different thread and will only match one particular CB adapter, or one cap will only match up with one insert. It takes him hours of sorting to match up the threaded parts and put the kits together.
Click to expand...

I just had this happen to me with 10 Gent Jr kit I got from Bill. As always I opened the baggies and put the parts in my organizer box for Gents Jr. The same nigth I happend to call Bill and we chatted a bit about this and that, and then he told me this: do not mix the parts up for the Gents Jr. I learned my lesson - had to go back and sort them all out, checking if the thread fits the other end. I got them all together except one [:(]

Rudy
 
Speaking of mandrels, which type do you guys use, the fixed shaft or the adjustable? I have the fixed and I don't see how the adjustable one is needed. But maybe it's for pens that I haven't made yet?

Fred, what is a Tundra burl and why do you have to keep it in the freezer?

Doghouse, I've never seen the off shore type of tackle box. I'll do a search and see if I can find one, thanks!

So far the only parts I've mixed together are the ones that I got from Bill, because thats the way he ships them. So I guess I should be ok. He sure seems like a nice guy, I just placed my second order with him last night. He ships fast and his prices are good. But I don't like the way his web page is set up, it showed a $162.00 for shipping on the order I placed last night, lol. I know it doesn't cost that much but it still makes ya freak out for a second. [:D] In fact, I think his shipping is better then anyones, unless there's someone shipping for free. It only cost about 3 bucks. I question his shipping on his web page the first time I ordered from him, and not only did he respond with an email to let me know how it worked, but he called me at home within minutes. You don't get service like that much. Anyway, I'm happy with him and will continue to buy there. :) ,,,,,,Thanks everyone!

R.T.
 
I keep my bushings in those little see-through film canisters with the name of the pen they go to written on the outside. I have dozens of yellow plastic parts boxes from a defunct supply house and I keep all the little film canisters in one of them.
 
"Speaking of mandrels, which type do you guys use, the fixed shaft or the adjustable? I have the fixed and I don't see how the adjustable one is needed. But maybe it's for pens that I haven't made yet? "

I have both.I started witht the adjustable and for a while it was nice not to have to add bushings as spacers.(either wood or other material,)
HAving to use wrenched to adjust the length gets old.
When I ordered Bera kits from Bill I started to make the switch to fixed.
It is convenient to pop out one mandrel and put it another or just unscrew the shaft.
 
<b>TUNDRA BURL !!</b>

<b>DCBluesman</b> (Lou) wrote in his post above:

"For my blanks, I have separate boxes for each continent (except Antartica, as I haven't seen any blanks offered from their native trees ). "

<b>Tundra Burl </b>is an imaginary wood species from that continent. Since it will melt with heat, the wood has to be kept in the freezer, and turned while still frozen. I have not found a practical way to sell and ship pens made from this material. [:o)]
 
Bev, good idea, all the film canister I get are black but it will still work. Thanks!

Eaglesc, yeah a wrench would suck for sure. I just got a couple of the mandrels from Bera today, not used them yet but they look different then most of the other ones I've seen. Why are they split on the end not just a solid piece?

"Tundra Burl is an imaginary wood species from that continent. Since it will melt with heat, the wood has to be kept in the freezer, and turned while still frozen. I have not found a practical way to sell and ship pens made from this material."

Well just use your imagination. [:D]

R.T.
 
Originally posted by Eaglesc
<br />"Speaking of mandrels, which type do you guys use, the fixed shaft or the adjustable? I have the fixed and I don't see how the adjustable one is needed. But maybe it's for pens that I haven't made yet? "

I have both.I started witht the adjustable and for a while it was nice not to have to add bushings as spacers.(either wood or other material,)
HAving to use wrenched to adjust the length gets old.
When I ordered Bera kits from Bill I started to make the switch to fixed.
It is convenient to pop out one mandrel and put it another or just unscrew the shaft.
Click to expand...
I used to use Berea's mandrels, both A and B, with their drill driver, but now I have changed to the Beall Collet chuck for holding my mandrels - definately the way to go. Just make sure that you buy an extra collet for the B mandrel (I think its 5/16), the Beall collet are stepped 1/8" and the B mandrel (8mm) is not covered. ER-32 collets can be found on different web sites, I got mine from Travers Tools. I think one charm of the collet chuck is that you use any length of mandrel and need no spacers if you turn only one barrel at a time.
Rudy
 
You could alway ship the tundra Burl by packing it in dry ice and only ship during the winter months for the added protection.
 
I've heard you can higher a Truck with a freezer trailer to haul your Tundra Burl and then have your Stubby or VB36 moved into the freezer trailer for turning. Tundra Burl is very heavy and requires these high-end lathes.

It is also recommended that you set up a display shelf in the trailer to show off the bowls and pens made from it. It is so dense and strong, that people with really large capacity lathes have turned huge bowl-shaped forms from it, then flipped them over to use for housing.
 
Very interesting! However, I think we are way off topic. Since it is such a rare species, maybe we can adopt Trundra Burl as our official 'mascot wood blank' and that way at least one specimen will be preserved for posterity . . .
 
I stick this picture in because I want to show off my FANTASTIC methods of organization. Check out my wood blank organizing in the background on the counter....I know I have some special blanks in there....somewhere!!

By the way, this is one of my daughters (out of 4) who is quite the turner.

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I use empty perscription bottles for my bushings and label each one and cover with clear tape. For my blanks I made a wall unit with compartments for my pen blanks and hung it just over my lathe.(I should have made it larger to hold more blanks)

Garry
 
A wall unit is what I need. I am planning on a shallow unit about 6" deep.

Actually, pill bottles have an advantage over the flat organizer boxes, since I don't have to dig to get them out. Just tip the bottle.
 
What I am curently doing whith my bushings is little metal containers with clear tops. I bought a whole bunch of them from Lee Valley I believe and they work really nice for bushings, and they are cheap to boot. I have several drawers that are about an inch and a quarter deep that I fill with blanks. I use one for each type, like one for stabilized and one for acrylics, dymondwood etc. Other than that I use Bill's method, just pile it up and I'll find it eventually[;)] Someday I would like to make a bank of drawers for my blanks because I am addicted to wood. It has to be different and burley and curley but I have to admitt that I just love the stuff. Of course my whole family has been in some type of construction or woodworking from the time I was a kid so I think that it's in my blood[:D]

Wayne
 
I read with interest the org posts.

I have a plastic box with adjustable dividers that I keep my bushings in. The kits I keep in their shipping bags.

I like the idea of storing blanks by where they are from. I write the name on each of the blanks (I have a problem iding them), who I got them from, and the price. Like some of you I have some blanks I'm saving for that special pen or person.

Claude
 
Claude, the only thing that scares be about storing the bushings in one of those divider boxes is if you dump it there all mixed up. What a pain that would be. Now if you leave them in the plastic bags they came in and put um in the trays then I guess it would work ok. But I think the individual containers is the way I'd go.

R.T.
 
Originally posted by WoodChucker
<br />Claude, the only thing that scares be about storing the bushings in one of those divider boxes is if you dump it there all mixed up. What a pain that would be. Now if you leave them in the plastic bags they came in and put um in the trays then I guess it would work OK. But I think the individual containers is the way I'd go.

R.T.
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I found a plastic compartment box at Michael's or Hobby Lobby that is long and skinny. It has something like 8-10 compartments, it is in the shop and I am not or I could tell exactly. There is a locking bar (plastic) that runs the length of the box. It is just a row of single compartments with individual lids. You push a button on one end of the box, that unlocks the lids. You then open the one compartment that you want access to. I write the Mfg., Mfg. Part Number and pen that the bushings are for on the lids.

This way you have them all together in one box but never, unless you want to, open more than one lid, if you dump it you only dump the contents of what is open.

I found it in the section where all the beads are kept. It is made for people who work with beads and have the same problems. They don't want to dump a half dozen different kinds of beads out at the same time.

And, by the way, y'all need to look around the bead department in one of these stores. Think center bushings. There is all kinds of possibilities there. Even workable stones like jade and turquoise. I have bought several assortments of plastic beads for this, just haven't gotten around to using them. All you need to do is drill out the string hole to fit the pen tube, perhaps do a little trimming and you got a fancy center piece.
 
Good idea Mac , I've been using plastic boxes used for fishing lures but as you said , if I tip or drop the box , everything is gone , but those boxes sound great . I'm going to have to go to Michaels and look for some !!
 
I used to do what dougle40 (Doug) but found the same problem, I now use a double sided clear plastic compartment box, as used by the 'needle and thread' brigade, it is great that if I want to use a part that is in the underside compartment, I just have to flip it over and nothing moves out if it's respective compartment on either side until i open the box. ( Sound more complicated than it is, still trying to come to terms with my mother tongue).

Bob `S`
 
I usually by plastic bins with dividers by Plano. They run anywwhere from $4 to $10. I just bought a plastic bin set from Lowes by Black and Decker that comes with 4 clear plastic bins like the plano boxes and a larger black bin with a fold down handle that the 4 bins slide into that makes them very handy to store, stack or carry. I lable the individual bins with the supplier and pen style of the hardware inside.
 
I've been using the same boxes as Mac in Oak Ridge. There are 2 sizes of box - one is a double row of 7 compartments (total capacity 14), the other size is a single row of 7 compartments with larger capacity - for the really large size bushing sets. I use a label maker to mark them, or if I'm lucky, I peel off the sticker from the bushing bag and put it on the compartment lid. I try to either do a single supplier for a whole box, or at least a single supplier down one side so I can find the right bushing easily.
 
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