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Marc Phillips

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I just finished a cigar pen, and wanted to show y'all an area that flew off and I filled...

First the fill - chunks from using a gouge put in the area followed by smaller stuff from a scraper followed by sanding dust... actually 5 applications of thin CA with a gradually finer and finer fill each time... it's a little darker than that part of the blank, but the oak has lots of darker areas so it worked out well... anyway, I liked it a lot better than just using sanding dust, which never seems to completely blend in for me... wanted to pass this on in case you want to try it... or get your comments and advice...

... but taking the closeup pic I see where the blank has CA residue still on it! ... Dang! .... never saw it!

You guys sand the ends of the blank after removing them from the mandrel? .... I am a worried about catching the edge and ruining the blank... so what do y'all do to avoid this?

Thanks for looking....


20071281792_Ooops.jpg
 
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Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Mark, consider using your pen mill by hand as a finishing touch.
Click to expand...

As Cav says, I always square the edges with a pen mill "gently, by hand" after removing blanks from the mandrel. I do this after CA and Enduro, it will amaze you the amount that comes off. [:0]
 
Someone here (Sorry, can't remember who)mentioned chucking a mandrel in the drill press and using that to keep the blank 90 degrees to a sanding block. You need to make sure your table is square using this technique. Oh and turn the blank by hand.
 
Marc, I will do one of two things: 1) use a pen mill very gently by hand, or 2) use an Exacto knife to trim the ends back flush. I actually prefer the knife b/c I've used one for years and can "feel" what I'm doing.
 
I use a utility knife and cut the finish at a spot just barely on the bushing. Then after removing the barrel, I trim off the extra finish with that knife. To make sure the edges are flush I lay a strip of 400 grit sandpaper on the lathe bed and hold the barrel straight up (90 degree angle) and rub in a random pattern. At that angle, the brass tube prevents sanding too much material away.

Chris
 
I used a utility razor edged knife until recently and now use a setup like Lee/firefyter-emt does. It looks like Lee's is the stick on kind, - but I made mine with velcro backing.

One thing I noticed - On oily blanks, when I separated the bushings from the blanks, I would often get a fairly clean break at the bushing/blank line - and I usually scored a line around at the break. However, when cleaning it up for a perfect line, I would occasionally have a small chip come out. After I started using the dead center drive (and before made my sanding jig,) I never had any more "chip out" in using a knife. It is my theory that the "breaking" apart of the bushing/blank line weakens the bond of the CA finish. Additional cutting by the x-acto knife causes chips on occasion. I have not had this problem since I started using the mandrel less system.

As far as the glue residue on the band, I get frustrated when I need to do what you did, but I bite the bullet and disassemble the pen before working on the finish. In the end, I have not regretted it.
 
Thanks all... I don't use a pen mill... I have a jig I made for my disc sander to square up the blanks...

I will use an exacto knife for now... and a little sandpaper on a flat surface to gently remove any CA residue...

Thanks again
 
I keep a diamond-stone next to my arbor press, and each barrel gets a few swipes on the ends before assembly. Not only does it clean up CA flashing, but it also knocks down any brass protrusions left over from milling (which my 7mm mill sometimes leaves). I can tell just by sound and touch when the end is flush.

Regards,
Eric
 
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