On my first two pieces - King's Adirondack chairs

[bradleyheathhays]

I'm just starting off on my first two commissioned pieces, two of Mr. King's very fine Adirondack chairs. I visited this particular local lumber yard this past weekend as I thought they had some Eastern Red Cedar that would've worked well, but since it was only 4/4 I ended up going with their 6/4 Red Oak as that's what the owner suggested. I haven't seen anyone make one of these chairs out of Oak yet so I hope I haven't shot myself in the foot here. These things are gonna be SO heavy, but I guess that's why they have wheels.

Since I've never worked with anything this dense before I thought I'd write to ask about the ins and outs of working with this heftier wood. I've got some good machines to help get it done... table saw, router table w/ lift, thickness planer, jointer, band saw, belt sander, part templates, etc. So no excuse I can't make this happen! I've read some instances where these chairs can rack so I'm concerned using a heavier wood will make them more prone. These are both to be painted solid white (filling all screw holes with dowels) and I'm wondering if the liberal use of glue in all the joints would help any with it's rigidity. I haven't seen the idea mentioned one way or the other. I'd be glad to go through the extra effort of using glue but I'm actually thinking that it might not do a joint any good where the two surfaces weren't previously machined to meet each other exactly flat.

Also, I'm wondering about the finish coats. The clients are requesting white, and because they're well traveled they're imagining the Adirondack chairs they've seen at high end country clubs and they're wanting something that resembles those... and all I know to do is ask the pimple face kid at the HD paint desk for something exterior grade. Should I just do a color coat or do some kind of clear as well? I just don't know how this is best done for exterior furniture. I'd actually like to get some kind of paint gun and give that a go since I've got a big enough compressor to push one now.

Here's what I'm looking to make... All advice appreciated.

 

[jttheclockman]

Well that is an ambitious project. Now a couple things come to mind. First there are many choices of wood that are used but today many of those chairs are built with Polywood. You see that alot from the Amish people. They have different colors. they can not be painted or stained. they are basically a plastic mixture. They make nice chairs and last forever. They are heavy but so will an oak chair will be. That would be my choice of material today if I were doing them. second the shape of the chair, curved tops are more traditional than squared off like you shown. King chairs means nothing to me. That does not make it a king. Next if you are set on using oak then I would use white oak and not red oak. It is alot more rot resistant and less grainy. I recommend a stain to it and need an outdoor stain. It will need to restained after a few years. Thus why Polywood is more popular. Build once and just wash down. Wood is going to definetly move and there really is no need for glues with those type chairs. use stainless steel screws even if you are going to bong the holes with dowels. Moisture is an enemy. Many of these chairs are built with pressure treated lumber. Just saying. Finally choose a good design because most those chairs are annoying to sit in. The front round over edge cuts off circulation in the legs when sitting on them for a long time. Especially if you have short legs. Less drop down in the back can prevent that. Now this is just my opinion I never built one but did help my Dad build a whole set of outdoor furniture many many years ago. He built his from pine and painted them but they needed painting almost every other year. Good luck.

 

[MRDucks2]

Not sure I would have used oak, but there is no reason it will not work. Keeping it from racking is a function of the type and placement of your fasteners.

For key, larger joints I have begun to use these and they are available most everywhere that sells screws. WoodPro Fasteners

Pre-drilling the hole with a proper stagger and these don't budge. In pre-drilling, I often drill a recess to sink the head below the surface.

I have done outdoor tables with white exterior oil based finishes in the past, though I have never sprayed and oils based finish. Adding some Japan Hardener will allow the oil based paint to dry much faster.

I like the variation with the squares off top and the more narrow wood strips. Best of luck.

 

[GaryMGg]

I would use white oak but not red oak as it's not a really good outdoor wood.
Make sure you seal all the exposed surfaces, particularly the end grain.

The Adirondacks I've built were made from Cypress. It's a traditional material and excellent for outdoor use.

 

[Woodchipper]

Exceptional work. The olden days used paint but had to be painted every few years. As for finish, what do you want? Is this for someone else?
FWIW, I was in Lancaster, PA a few years ago. The Amish have gone to colored synthetic materials; last forever and no painting.
Saw someone's signature once: If God wanted painted wood, he would have made painted trees.