Not a turning/pen question rather a box construction one.

[Ray-CA]

I'm currently working on 2 boxes and am really tired of mitered corners. Box (finger joint) is what I'd like to try but am having some difficulty with them. Watched several videos etc, built a jig, tried on some scrap wood etc. All the instructions say, for example, to cut 1/4" joints, set the dado stack 1/4" above the saw table. Did/done that but with 1/2" material, the joints aren't deep enough. Do I raise the cutting height to 1/2" or cut 1/2" joints?

Thanks.

Ray

 

[KenB259]

If I'm understanding you, yes the cuts should be slightly deeper than the width of your stock. You want the fingers slightly proud so you can sand them down smoothly.

 

[jttheclockman]

I second what Ken said. The Dado cutter needs to be set just a fraction above the thickness of the boards you are using. If using 1/2" then it would be just a hair above 1/2" on height of blade. You want to be able to sand or plane the corners flat so you do not want alot of material stick out. Just enough to hit with a sander. There are so many different box making joints out there. The easiest joint to make a a 45 degree joint but I would use a spline to make the joint stronger. You can do this with a hidden spline where you do not cut all the way through the boards or make it a through spline and do cut all the way through. Then there are decorative splines that you can do that show on the outside of the miters and you can get as fancy as you want. All easy to do especially if you make jigs to hold all pieces in same orientation so to get cuts all the same and easier to assemble. Good luck and look forward to seeing the boxes.

 

[NeonWoodShop]

Yes, what Ken and John said. Blade or bit should be set just higher than your stock. The joint can still be 1/4" wide fingers. Or play with different width fingers and see which looks best for the project. I try to make the finger width divide evenly into the height of the sides so there aren't any partial fingers.

If you are cutting a dado for the box bottom, some or all sides may require a stopped dado. I usually forget that step on the first box and have to make a plug for a couple fingers. Utility boxes aren't a big deal, but nice wood usually isn't as forgiving.

 

[KenB259]

Yes, what Ken and John said. Blade or bit should be set just higher than your stock. The joint can still be 1/4" wide fingers. Or play with different width fingers and see which looks best for the project. I try to make the finger width divide evenly into the height of the sides so there aren't any partial fingers.

If you are cutting a dado for the box bottom, some or all sides may require a stopped dado. I usually forget that step on the first box and have to make a plug for a couple fingers. Utility boxes aren't a big deal, but nice wood usually isn't as forgiving.

I use one of these whenever I am making a finger joint box, to cut a slot for a box bottom. You just have to put a radius on the corners of the bottom. Works very well and was designed for just this purpose.

 

[Ray-CA]

Thanks to all. I raised the blades to 9/16" or so and cut some scrap wood. Cuts were okay, but rough. My dado set is about 55 years old, burned the wood and non-carbide so, I'm now shopping for a newer set!

 

[jttheclockman]

Thanks to all. I raised the blades to 9/16" or so and cut some scrap wood. Cuts were okay, but rough. My dado set is about 55 years old, burned the wood and non-carbide so, I'm now shopping for a newer set!

Oh yea get a good set of carbide. That is the way to go these days. Makes a huge difference. Good luck.

 

[NeonWoodShop]

Every new project usually requires at least one new tool.

 

[jttheclockman]

Every new project usually requires at least one new tool.

Absolutely. I have been mentioning in a few weeks I am going to switch from making pens to making a few boxes and trinket boxes. I just bought a couple of better strap clamps from Bessey. I always used some old string ones I got cheap somewhere. Got to have an excuse for new Toys.

 

[Ray-CA]

Got some! Nice set from Freud. I'm now going to try cutting some "double slots". A 1/8th inch cut, an 1/8th inch of wood and a second 18th inch slot. I'm going for a double Celtic knot. I found a washer 1/8th thick and an id of 5/8th with a 3 inch od.

 

[NeonWoodShop]

Got some! Nice set from Freud. I'm now going to try cutting some "double slots". A 1/8th inch cut, an 1/8th inch of wood and a second 18th inch slot. I'm going for a double Celtic knot. I found a washer 1/8th thick and an id of 5/8th with a 3 inch od.

I'm looking forward to seeing your double Celtic knot.

 

[randyrls]

One question I've always had about box joints... When cutting the joints do you cut one at a time or both of them together? I think that cutting each one separately is just asking for cumulative positioning errors to creep in. BUT most Woodworking shows cut one at a time.

I've never done this, so no experience.

 

[Woodchipper]

Every new project usually requires at least one new tool.

And requires some $$$$ to go buy the tool.

 

[jttheclockman]

One question I've always had about box joints... When cutting the joints do you cut one at a time or both of them together? I think that cutting each one separately is just asking for cumulative positioning errors to creep in. BUT most Woodworking shows cut one at a time.

I've never done this, so no experience.

One at a time. Once you make a simple jig there is no error involved except where you need to start because you have 2 boards that must shift one spot over for the finger and tails to line up properly. But do one and you see exactly what you need to do. You could do 2 opposite sides together if you affix them with some doublesided tape or some other fastener. You can not have them shift or slide when cutting. On the jig, just make the guide leg a little longer so both pieces slip over it. This is a jig for a router but you can make similar for tablesaw. I always prefered a router.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1464496991/box-joint-jig-woodworking-downloadable?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_-craft_supplies_and_tools-domestic_med&utm_custom1=_k_715a74c934ed14a4fc06116fb9e8b7ae_k_&utm_content=bing_412372913_1295224995242096_80951625928977_pla-4584551177332512:pla-4584551177332512_c__1464496991&utm_custom2=412372913&msclkid=715a74c934ed14a4fc06116fb9e8b7ae

 

[jttheclockman]

Man I clicked on the link above and noticed an old friend of mine. The wrist watch pattern from Wood Magazine from many many years ago. This is what got me started making those things and what a success they were. Sold many of these watches over the years. I had one lady buy 5 at one show I was at. She thought they were so cool.
There are actually some very nice plans in that link for woodworking projects. A nice tablesaw sled and more.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1422076377/wrist-watch-plan-by-wood-magazine?click_key=ab2ad08d7cd2f130a93094e983eaa1266b0da6f4:1422076377&click_sum=802b8e5f&external=1&rec_type=ss&ref=pla_similar_listing_top-2&sts=1

 

[GaryMGg]

One question I've always had about box joints... When cutting the joints do you cut one at a time or both of them together? I think that cutting each one separately is just asking for cumulative positioning errors to creep in. BUT most Woodworking shows cut one at a time.

I've never done this, so no experience.

It depends on how exact you made your jig, the wood and saw blade.
Some woods are hard enough to flex an inexpensive blade—especially if you're cutting at an angle.
I usually cut one piece at a time so I can clamp it to the jig securely.
I've done two pieces successfully; never tried more than 2.

 

[egnald]

I have always had problems with getting box joints to fit so a couple of years ago I jumped on one of the Woodpeckers "One Time Tool" offerings which included a regular and mini Gap Gauge and a Dado set-up fixture. Set the wood thickness on the Gap Gauge and use the Dado set-up to build the stack of blades and shims.

I haven't used it much, but it does provide a unique method of making precision setups empirically without needing to make physical measurements. Empirical measuring has always worked out for me better than anything.

Good Luck. - Dave

 

[jttheclockman]

I have always had problems with getting box joints to fit so a couple of years ago I jumped on one of the Woodpeckers "One Time Tool" offerings which included a regular and mini Gap Gauge and a Dado set-up fixture. Set the wood thickness on the Gap Gauge and use the Dado set-up to build the stack of blades and shims.

I haven't used it much, but it does provide a unique method of making precision setups empirically without needing to make physical measurements. Empirical measuring has always worked out for me better than anything.

Good Luck. - Dave
View attachment 370875 View attachment 370877 View attachment 370876

They sure do make pretty looking tools.

 

[Ray-CA]

Got some! Nice set from Freud. I'm now going to try cutting some "double slots". A 1/8th inch cut, an 1/8th inch of wood and a second 18th inch slot. I'm going for a double Celtic knot. I found a washer 1/8th thick and an id of 5/8th with a 3 inch od.

This didn't work!

 

[Woodchipper]

I looked at several plans for making a box joint jig. Gave up and bought the Rockler jig; https://www.rockler.com/router-table-box-joint-jig.

 

[egnald]

Years ago I bought the Incra I-Box Jig intending to use it on my router table. Although it says the design works on both routers and saws, I found it too challenging to set up for the router. At the time I didn't have a dado stack for my table saw so it has seen little use so far. It looks like it should work much better with the table saw, so I've just hung onto it. - Dave

 

[KenB259]

Years ago I bought the Incra I-Box Jig intending to use it on my router table. Although it says the design works on both routers and saws, I found it too challenging to set up for the router. At the time I didn't have a dado stack for my table saw so it has seen little use so far. It looks like it should work much better with the table saw, so I've just hung onto it. - Dave

I got the Incra I Box Jig, years ago. I,ve used it on the router table as well as on the table saw. The table saw is my preferred method as I get less tear out. The jig is expensive, but works extremely well. All these homemade finger joint jigs you see, leave out one very important feature and that is the fact, you need to be able to make small and very precise adjustments. I'm usually all about homemade jigs, but not this time.

 

[jttheclockman]

Yea that Incra jig is a precision jig for sure and there are some neat joints you can make. Mine is collecting dust somewhere. I went through a box phase years ago and spent some serious money on jigs. May bring this one back out but I know will bring the spline jig out too. Have a couple of finger joint jigs. One is brand new never used and I really should sell it because I will never use it. Would have to find all the pieces. This is what happens when you go to those woodworking shows. The demonstrators make it look so easy and they lure you into buying. I am and always a sucker for new tools and gadgets. Oh it is a disease and I need help. Even today at my later years I still can not help it and yet I need to unload many things before I leave this earth because the family will just throw it all away.