No finish????

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Stretch

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Nov 18, 2005
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Platte, South Dakota, USA.
I know that everyone here loves a good, shiny, jaw-dropping finish. ( I do to) but does anyone ever not finish their pens and go for the natural feel? I've done this once or twice for myself but would probably never try to sell a pen like this. (Personally I think using them leaves a nice patina) What do you think about it, or is it just a totally stupid idea that should never be brought up again.
 
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I love the high-gloss CA finish but sometimes I give pens with no finish and people seem to like them just as much. It depends on the wood and the person, I think =)
 
That was a good thread. As one who loves things natural more than most, I still see the necessity of a good finish. One of my first Barons was an ambonya burl that I put Myland's on for a finish. The finish only lasted a short time. Then the wood absorbed my skin oils and dirt. What was a beautiful pen is now relegated to back-up status when I am hunting or doing grunt work. There is a reason why durable, beautiful finishes were invented.
 
One of my first pens was a gorgeous walnut knot cigar for my dad. The wood was so beautiful that I couldn't bring myself to put a finish on it.

I was getting ready to give the pen to Dad and had a cold drink before putting the pen away. The condensation from the water glass made my fingers wet, and I picked up the pen and the walnut soaked up the water from those wet fingers. The wood slightly swelled in those places. [B)]

After disassembling the pen and resanding, I decided that a pen that was so pretty couldn't NOT have a finish. Every pen I make now has at least a wax finish, though 90% get a plexiglas finish.

Chris
 
One of my early pens went to LOML, so that's only about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a very pretty white Bird's Eye Hard Maple on Black enamel slimline.
It originally got an oil finish followed with a good burnishing of shavings, a solid rub down to cure and eliminate excess oils, then buffed out with two heavy coats of carnuba wax. It looks like crap today due to regular use which has worn through the wax and allowed the white maple to become bleech! The black enamel has held up just fine. I'll either refinish it, or make her a new one and swap 'em out.
Can't have Mrs. G carrying no ugly pen. [;)]

An unfinished pen is the emperor's new clothes. [:0]
[}:)]
Gary
 
My answer is this: Your wooden dining table has a protective finish. Why not eliminate the finish and have a nice patina of water rings, spilled food, and the like? [:D]
 
I haven't turned a wooden pen for a while, but when I do, i like CA. I have some with no finish from my earlier days. They just seem to stay kinda dull and lifeless. Just my 2cents
 
Read Russ Fairfield's pages. In his writings, he issued a challenge of sorts to leave a pen natural. I have done so a number of times, but not w/just any wood. Very hard, dense and oily woods like Lignum Vitae, Texas Ebony, and Pecan (and I suspect Hickory) are all good candidates. And I hazard to guess that Mesquite would fair well too, only it doesn't have the oily characteristics of the others. I have a spalted Pecan pen in my pocket at this very moment that has no finish and I've been carrying it daily for over 8 years. It still looks as good as the day my son gave it to me. The initial finish was a Carnuba stick. I've handled it with wet hands and it's been in more than one sweaty shirt pocket over the years, and even been caught in a rain storm or three.

Not to throw a wet blanket on the "You don't have unfinished furniture do you?" crowd, but I've not seen any furniture made from LV, or the others. Yes, all woods will wick up water. But not all have the same consequences. Some will grunge badly and rapidly, while others will age and patina naturally and gracefully. So would I leave furniture made from these same woods unfinished? I guess it depends on what you call a finish. I would wax them several times a year, but honestly, I don't think I'd do much more. And my finish of choice for furniture is a equal part mixture of polyurethane, BLO and Tung oil, but try putting that on a pen. It leaves a nice warm finish to the wood, but it still needs to be protected by a coat of wax at least once year.

So based on my experience, my answer to the original question would have to be, "It depends."
 
Billy,

Not to cyber-fight, but I would bet the furniture at these links has a finish.

http://www.ranchomondo.com/louisfry/rosedesk.htm

http://www.texashillcountrygateway.com/harts.html
 
To further Billy's point, I turn conducting batons and have always finished them with the idea that eventually the glossy finish (friction polish or wax, etc) would wear away gradually as it's replaced with the natural oils from the user's hand. Since this transition is both slow and personal to the user, the result is an instrument (not unlike a pen) that is as much about the person it's made for than anything else.

Since I use pecan, mesquite, bois d'arc, huisache (sweet acacia) and oak - all very hard woods - I've had pretty good success. I've also had good luck with peach wood.

The pen I carry with me is one of my first pens in mesquite and there's no gloss to it at all anymore, but it feels great and much warmer than the glossy ones that a lot of folks prefer.
 
Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Billy,

Not to cyber-fight, but I would bet the furniture at these links has a finish.

http://www.ranchomondo.com/louisfry/rosedesk.htm

http://www.texashillcountrygateway.com/harts.html

Okay, so one of the two uses Pecan to build furniture. And I'll ignore the Mesquite b/c it was only in the "may fair well" category, and I didn't mention Coco. If I were building and selling furniture (all my furniture is for me or immediate family members), I would certainly put a contemporary durable finish on it b/c you can't depend on the customer treating it as it needs to be treated and call backs are a bad thing. Besides, few could afford my furniture. [:D] That said, when I leave a pen blank natural (except for wax), I inform the buyer of that fact and tell them that they can either let it wear (patina) naturally, or keep it waxed regularly. So far none have come back and these have been LV, Coco, Mesquite and Pecan. Walnut isn't dense enough and I've seen Cherry patina very badly. The body chemistry of the owner actually greyed the Cherry instead of the usual red that Cherry becomes. And this pen had a CA finish! How he wore the CA off is beyond me, but it didn't take 6 months. And it was ALL gone. I asked him if I could refinish it for him (mostly b/c I was too embarassed by it and didn't want others judging my work on such an ugly pen), but he wouldn't hear of it. He loves it and carries it with pride daily. Go figure. So fruit woods are off my "no finish" list.[;)]

EDIT: Oh, and as always, your mileage may vary. My opinions on such matters are simply based on my own experiences. Am I the absolute authority on finish vs. no finish for a pen? Absolutely not! But I took Russ' challenge to heart and have simply shared my successes and failures with it.[:I][;)]
 
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