nib upgrade help

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conandy

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Feb 18, 2015
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102
Location
Denver, CO
I am very new to FP's. Have only turned a couple, both of which have moved on to other users.

I just purchased a few Baron kits and a Virage and a Rinehart from Bear Tooth Woods. I wanted to play around with learning to remove and upgrade and adjust nibs (haven't purchased any upgrades yet), but I am finding it very difficult (as in unsuccessful as yet) to remove the stock nib from the feed/housing.

Granted, these are un-inked and as yet even un-turned-into-pens, but I got the impression from watching nib tuning and adjusting vids on Youtube (some made by a few of the fine folks on this site) that the nibs should pull out with a firm tug and firm grip. I can't seem to get them to budge.

The entire feed/housing does unscrew easily from the section, so I suppose I could upgrade the entire housing easily if someone can point me at some compatible feed/housing/nib assemblies that fit these pens.

My preference would be to start with just nibs and work my way up to the more expensive (and complete) upgrades.

Also: I have seen in other threads that upgrading the nibs on PSI's Vertex FP's is extremely difficult. PSI has been no help at all. What is the latest word on the easiest way to upgrade those or find "compatible" nibs? Those first 2 pens I turned were Vertexes. People like those magnetic caps, so I 'd like to learn ways to offer upgrades to those.

Thanks!
 
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Thanks, Lenny. I went and watched that one by Ed. Looks like I just need to be more patient, and try for awhile longer. I'll let y'all know how that turns out.

I have weaker hands than 'normal', so find myself looking for ways to get a better grip. Will try wearing some heavy duty latex gloves or something to give me some more friction.
 
I haven't watched Ed Brown's Youtube video.

But, I have been successful in removing a stubborn nib/feed by first wrapping the nib and feed in a blue medical rubber strip and then wiggling carefully and painstakingly. . The blue rubber strip I refer to is commonly used as a "tourniquet" in the process of taking blood at a medical lab. Without the rubber, my fingers & thumb get very sore !
 
Hi Andrew,

I see your a cyclist. If you have a punctured inner tube you can cut pieces off anuse one to grip the nib and one for the section. I know Beartooth Woods caries the replacement for the Baron, so suggest working with it. Try rocking it gentle bot front to rear and left to right as you pull. You can also try a wiggly twist but there is a flat on the feed. Pick up a bulb syringe, or borrow from a friend with a baby. and flush the nib with soapy luke warm water, It could get out any gunk causing it to hang up and the soap will act similar to a lubricant.

"DO NOT"try to punch it out from the back side. It won't work DAMHIKT:wink:

Got a cold so I'm Typing slow. magpens method will also work.
 
The Vortex and Graduate both use the same odd sized nibs. PSPIsays they are 6mm but the sure look like 5mm in size. I've talked to the folks at classic nib and they suggested a 5mm nib but you have to flatten the curvature some to get it to fit in the existing feed. I've not tried yet. SO. Looks like the nib is the size of a 5mm with a 6mm curve at the feed. All mine are in the hands of others or i would get out the caliber and measure for you.
 
I do have a conversation going (slow, maybe update once per week or two) with a 'pen technician' at PSI who said that before I raised the question, they were unaware that this is an issue. He has referenced Roy at ClassicNib as well regarding the suggestion of the 0.5mm nib. As soon as I can get back out to the shop and turn some pens, I'll start playing with some nibs. Soon. Really.
 
I have managed to get apart a couple of the barons and virage's with some but not terrible difficulty. However, I have one Baron I cannot get to budge no matter what. Probably spent 45 minutes on that puppy, including forcing some soapy water through it and then soaking in soapy water. Nothing.

Question: would it destroy the parts if I were to drop a couple drops of penetrating oil? I'd have to soak and clean in solvent afterwards, for sure.
 
re: Vertex. I pulled apart a Vertex and a Baron and a Jinhao X450 with a #6 nib (I don't have any upgrade #6's yet). The Vertex nib is definitely odd. It has a radius of curvature almost identical to the #6 nib, but is obviously a #5 in size. The baron nib I tried to put into the Vertex just fell right out, in spite of "looking" like it would fit fine. Hmmm.

Can someone point me at a procedure to re-tap or do a more thorough upgrade of the Vertex to accept a "standard" #5 or #6 nib feed and housing?
 
re: Vertex. I pulled apart a Vertex and a Baron and a Jinhao X450 with a #6 nib (I don't have any upgrade #6's yet). The Vertex nib is definitely odd. It has a radius of curvature almost identical to the #6 nib, but is obviously a #5 in size. The baron nib I tried to put into the Vertex just fell right out, in spite of "looking" like it would fit fine. Hmmm.

Can someone point me at a procedure to re-tap or do a more thorough upgrade of the Vertex to accept a "standard" #5 or #6 nib feed and housing?

I will check tonight when I get home from work on the Front Section to Body Threads. You would have to make a new front section to accept a "standard sized" nib and feed. Did you try a #5 nib flattened a bit along with the original feed from the pen?
 
I measure a 8.5mm x 1.0 pitch thread for the front section of the graduate magnetic (same as Vortex) however the thread isn't cut full depth and has a flat bottom and crest almost like an ACME thread. Measurement is male thread OD 0.335 inch (8.5 mm) and minor diameter at bottom of the thread is 0.323 inch (8.2mm.)
 
re: Vertex. I pulled apart a Vertex and a Baron and a Jinhao X450 with a #6 nib (I don't have any upgrade #6's yet). The Vertex nib is definitely odd. It has a radius of curvature almost identical to the #6 nib, but is obviously a #5 in size. The baron nib I tried to put into the Vertex just fell right out, in spite of "looking" like it would fit fine. Hmmm.

Can someone point me at a procedure to re-tap or do a more thorough upgrade of the Vertex to accept a "standard" #5 or #6 nib feed and housing?

I will check tonight when I get home from work on the Front Section to Body Threads. You would have to make a new front section to accept a "standard sized" nib and feed. Did you try a #5 nib flattened a bit along with the original feed from the pen?

Unfortunately it is the section that is the magnetic mate to the cap, not the piece attached to the pen barrel. I just tested this. Plus I really like the hexagonal grip section on the pen.

I have not tried to flatten a #5 nib yet, but plan to do that with one of the kit nibs from a Baron or something once I have some upgrades to replace them with. Should come in the mail this week.

I am considering filing the end of the grip section with epoxy and then boring and taping the epoxy to exactly match the housing length and threads for a standard Bock #5 housing.

This is a lot of effort though. Simple solution is to just stop making this model FP. LOL. The magnetic cap, though, really does sell it.
 
I was thinking of making a replacement front section from 440 stainless steel. It will work with a magnet. 300 series SS doesn't.
 
I was thinking of making a replacement front section from 440 stainless steel. It will work with a magnet. 300 series SS doesn't.

LOL. You have more capabilities than I do, obviously. Not gonna happen with my harbor freight wood lathe.

Before too long I'm gonna need to find a local machinist for some of this kind of stuff.
 
I'm guessing the fill and drill might work. I don't have a Graduate FP to play with. Just a couple rollerballs. Let us know how the flattened #5 works. I've been pondering this for months myself. Once I committed to making a metal front section I decide to go all the way and make the entire pen. Have you unthreaded the nib holder and taken dimensions?
 
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