Newbie....Turning Between Center

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Kebo

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Kathleen, GA
Hey guys,
I've only turned a few pens and those were turned using a mandrel. I wanted to try turning between centers and would like to know what I need to do so and recommendations for sources.
Thanks in advance.
 
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@Kebo

First off, . . . Warm welcome to IAP !!

I strongly encourage going the TBC route. . . I have been TBCing almost from the beginning of my pen-turning . . . no downside, IMHO !

I would also suggest that you do your TBCing without any bushings. . . Bushings are just an unnecessary and troublesome expense, IMHO.

A good pair of calipers . . . make frequent measurements . . . take it carefully . . . and you'll never look back at that old mandrel !!!

Oh ... you will need a live tailstock center . . . probably with 60-degree center. . . just ask at any machine tool place.
And .... you will need a parallel-sided dead center for your headstock . . . . again, probably with 60-degree cone shape . . I don't like a spur center
Sometimes we refer to this as a "drive center".
I say "parallel-sided" ( referring to the shaft of the 60-degree cone ) so that you can mount it in your headstock chuck.
If your headstock has an female MT2, you could also use a male MT2 dead center ( 60-degree cone ) without any headstock chuck.
Again, just ask at any machine tool store. . This is also a very common item.

For a drive center, I actually prefer to use a diamond cone . . . for example, this . . .

 
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Mal hit the nail on the head, 60 deg Live Center, 60 deg Dead center and a set of Calipers. Below is where I sourced mine.



 
Welcome to IAP and to TBC life. I vote for TBC as a very smart move and bushings are not necessary. For what it's worth, I usually round out the blanks with bushings, either on a mandrel or, much more often, using TBC adapters with bushings. I cut most of the way down to the bushings if I am using the bushings designed for the kit. Even if you don't have the exact bushings, you can use some designed for the same diameter tube just to rough out the blank just far enough that you are sure you're not going to take off too much. Then I remove the bushings and just put the brass tube right between a 60° dead center (MT2) and a 60° live center on the tailstock. The rest is all measured with calipers.

Most bushings I have tested are slightly out of round, some more than slightly. We typically say out of round, but non-concentric is really what is meant. No bushings means the bushings being out of round won't cause lopsided barrels. There are, however, some things to consider when working without bushings.
  • Putting too much pressure on the ends of the brass tube can cause flaring on the ends of the tube. This is extra important on pens where there is only what amounts to a veneer's thickness of wood left as it can split easily.
  • If the ends of your tubes are not perfectly square, you can still end up with an out of round barrel.
  • Without bushings (or even with them sometimes) the wood at the ends of the barrel can chip out easily. I usually seal the ends up with CA to help with this. Obviously sharp tools are really helpful here (just like everywhere else really)
  • (Reserved for things to be added by those much more experienced than me)
 
For the setup, it is simple. While some do enjoy the "modified commercial" versions of "TBC", it is more simple and easier to do the REAL TBC.

This is the Original layout of TBC on this forum some 13-14 years ago with a home made drive center (I was living overseas and did not have quick access to many items:

This is a current set up - Dead drive, blank between bushings, Live center

The bushings are taken off for finishing.

I am somewhat obsessive about this and will admit it - commercial modified versions which came AFTER the popularity of TBC here, were made to draw sales, because they were losing sales to TBC. The commercial versions do not increase any precision that is not already present on a lathe, and in fact create potential for less precision. The more simple it is and less parts used, the more precision that is possible and the cheaper it is in the long run.
 
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Welcome.

I'm not much ahead of you here (still new). I bought a 60 degree live and dead center off Amazon some time ago after reading here and encountering the OOR problem. I turn my blanks on the mandrel down to within a sliver of final size, then switch to TBC and use digital calipers to get it to size.

Then I put the mandrel back on and use some plastic bushings to finish with CA and wet micro mesh.

Important side note: The tubes need to be clean. No glue, dust or shavings. If the tube isn't round, the pen won't be either.
 
The response from /magpens.12428/ is exactly correct and I encourage you to study his procedures. One thought; the steadiness of the holding method for the headstock must be considered. I never put anything in a chuck on the headstock because mine does not turn princely -- there is a vibration, so I put a 60d drive in the headstock and make sure it runs true, thereby eliminating a possible source of vibration. P.
 
Welcome (from Alpharetta). I will pm my number. My typing stinks. However, I think all of the advice is excellent.
 
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