Newbie questions

[Chasboy1]

Hi folks, I'm going to be asking a lot of possibly simple questions for awhile, so please bear with me! :biggrin:

1. I have CA-Thick glue, it seems to be a bit slow drying compared to thin, which I've been told is like Super glue. Is this typical? Do I need the other thicknesses?
2. Painting tubes: This seems to be recommended by all the vendors of the various plastics we turn. Is this necessary? My concern is that the CA glue will react with the paint and lose it's holding ability.
3. Negative rake cutters: Again, frequently recommended in particular for Inlace Acrylic (acrylester). Is there any reason I can't turn my regular roundnose over and use it that way?
4. I have an old Carbide tipped round nose, is there a way to sharpen it?

Thanks in advance!

 

[jttheclockman]

#1 yes you need the other thickness CA glues if you are serious about this hobby. Thick is for gluing in the tubes but can also be done with med but not thin. As the thickness goes up so does the drying and CURING time.

#2 yes again for many non opaque acrylic blanks. You ask if a blank is opaque or not then be on the safe side and paint the inside of the blank. You will get others that say paint the tube, some say both and some say both and also glue. To that is overkill unless this is a really transparent blank. I always will sand the inside of the blank to get rid of drill marks and try to use spray paints when reverse painting but have also used testors paints nd a small brush. yes also to the possibilities of CA reacting with certain paints. Use a good quality paint such as testors model paints or high heat spray paints by various manufacturers

#3 not needed just another tool in the tool box. A good sharp tool goes a long way in the turning field. I do not use them and have no reason to try. I have turned just about every material possible with the tools I own and have success. Just an opinion there.

#4 Trend diamond sharpening card. Not all sharpening cards are equal. Good diamonds and they way they are attached to a card or stick mean the world. Look up Trend. I have given that link over 100 times I believe because I do like the system and it can sharpen those carbide cutters very easily. There are videos out there. I will let you look some of this up.

These are my thoughts and opinions and may vary with others. Good luck.

 

[monophoto]

I expect others will weigh in with their thoughts. Here are my views - - -

1. I have CA-Thick glue, it seems to be a bit slow drying compared to thin, which I've been told is like Super glue. Is this typical? Do I need the other thicknesses?

It's perfectly normal for thick CA to take longer to cure.


I find it helpful to have all three viscosities on hand, but YMMV - it really depends on how you work.

2. Painting tubes: This seems to be recommended by all the vendors of the various plastics we turn. Is this necessary? My concern is that the CA glue will react with the paint and lose it's holding ability.

I think the issue of painted tubes is a concern if you are using transparent plastic blanks. Its certainly NOT a concern if you are using opaque material.

3. Negative rake cutters: Again, frequently recommended in particular for Inlace Acrylic (acrylester). Is there any reason I can't turn my regular roundnose over and use it that way?

IMO, the 'negative rake' thing was created by tool manufacturers to sell more tools. You can achieve the same thing by simply holding your scraper with the handle higher than the cutting edge. You can also reshape an old scraper to make it negative rake - just grind a bevel on the top.

I have an old Carbide tipped round nose, is there a way to sharpen it?

If you are referring to a tool with a removable carbide cutter, yes, it can be sharpened using a diamond card or paddle. Just remove the cutter, turn it upside down, apply a little lubricant, and gently rub the top of the cutter against the diamond card to polish the TOP. Don't attempt to do anything with the beveled edge - just polish the top to restore the edge.

 

[Loucurr]

I agree with the above information but you will find that there is more than one way skin a cat...you will find for every process different turners will use different techniques.

What I can add is that some acrylic blanks once turned down will have a level of transparency. This will expose the tube to some degree. Painting the inside if the blank and or tube will reduce this effect and also has an effect on the look of the blank.

Many people use CA for gluing tubes but there are other preferred methods like gorilla glue and epoxy.

Finally, don't fall into the fancy tool trap. A good sharp tool is all that's needed. All I use is a roughing gouge and a skew for all my pens.

 

[leehljp]

Concerning your 2nd question - below are two links that concerns gluing and painting:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f19/seeing-believing-reverse-painting-151785/

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/painting-tubes-vs-blanks-152461/#post1959325

Some glues do interact with some paints. I had that problem early on, and then was told to paint the tubes or inside of the blank and wait 24 to 48 hours before gluing in.

 

[Chasboy1]

Thank you all for your responses. Tho' a newbie to penmaking, I'm a veteran of all manner of manual/mechanical pursuits. I was especially heartened by the references to 'another tool in the toolbox' since some of the drawers in mine would probably upend the box if I pulled the drawer all the way out!
The piece that I'm trying the CA finish on seem like it's going to be ok, but I was wondering, since I'm also a car hobbyist I use automotive spray clear to finish off certain projects. Would it be suitable for a pen?
Gorilla glue was mentioned. Would that be the one that foams up and can be a real PITA after it cures, or some other version?

 

[monophoto]

Gorilla glue was mentioned. Would that be the one that foams up and can be a real PITA after it cures, or some other version?

Yup - that's the stuff. No matter how careful you are, it gets all over your hands and won't come off. Generic name is polyurethane glue.

I hate it, but there are jobs for which it is ideal. I use it for gluing tubes in wood pen blanks, and for applications where the joint needs to be water resistant.

 

[jttheclockman]

Thank you all for your responses. Tho' a newbie to penmaking, I'm a veteran of all manner of manual/mechanical pursuits. I was especially heartened by the references to 'another tool in the toolbox' since some of the drawers in mine would probably upend the box if I pulled the drawer all the way out!
The piece that I'm trying the CA finish on seem like it's going to be ok, but I was wondering, since I'm also a car hobbyist I use automotive spray clear to finish off certain projects. Would it be suitable for a pen?
Gorilla glue was mentioned. Would that be the one that foams up and can be a real PITA after it cures, or some other version?

Yes that is the stuff. Need moisture to activate it also. They do make Gorilla glue CA now too. Way too messy for me

That auto lacquer is not made for wood. You would be better using wood lacquers if you go that way.

 

[greenacres2]

I use either thick or even gel CA for gluing tubes into wooden blanks. For most acrylics and hybrids (wood & acrylic), i normally use epoxy. When i paint the blank or tube (or both), i ALWAYS use epoxy to keep from melting the paint. I keep several colors of paint on hand, as the back color does change the finished look. The same acrylic or Alumilite blank with the inside painted black, white, blue or red will look like 4 different blanks!!
That's all i have to add.
earl

 

[More4dan]

I second the comment to let the paint cure at least 24 hours. When I try to rush it, I end up scraping the paint and the tube shows. I also mount the blanks in the lathe after painting and spin at max rpm to get a thin even coat on the inside of the blank.

Danny


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