Newbie doing CA finish

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sigge

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Aug 21, 2009
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Malta, Europe
Hi everyone...

Just a quick question. I am currently experimenting with BLO/CA finishing. I have no problem applying the "mix" but I cannot seem to get the gloss as I see on some photos here in the forum. My question is this? Am I supposed to get the gloss right after applying the BLO/CA or do the gloss appear first after sanding/polishing etc?

I apply the BLO/CA and then sand and I feel I get some kind of gloss but in some videos I have seen on youtube they seem to get the gloss by just applying the BLO/CA with a paper towel.

Maybe this is a stupid question but I asked it anyway :)
 
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leehljp

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Hi everyone...

Just a quick question. I am currently experimenting with BLO/CA finishing. I have no problem applying the "mix" but I cnanot seem to get the gloss as I see on some photos here in the forum. My question is this? Am I supposed to get the gloss right after applying the BLO/CA or do the gloss appear first after sanding etc?

I apply the BLO/CA and then send and I feel I get some kind of gloss but in some videos I have seen on youtube they seem to get the gloss by just applying the BLO/CA and paper towel.

Maybe this is a stupid question but I asked it anyway :)

A few people may get a good gloss after applying but that comes with CONSIDERABLE experience. I have never left a pen finished without sanding through very fine / 12000 MM or similar.

You can try without the BLO and see how that does it for you. Sometimes BLO will leave CA a little dull.
 

leehljp

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so you sand between every coat? or just after applying a number of coats?

I usually apply two or three coats and sand lightly and then a couple of medium CA layers.

If I may offer a suggestion - play with it for a few days. Don't make the goal to be a finished pen. Focus on getting the "feel" of applying CA, sanding it, applying more. Notice little things like white powder (sanding dust) being trapped; dull spots, small pits/holes, rings, . . . and then how to eliminate them. EVERY person has different way to describe the same "feel" and no one's or maybe only a few people will describe the "feel or touch" the same way for the same situation. That is why there are so many different methods.

Actually there are less methods than most people probably think, but the numbers get inflated because of the different ways people interpret the same words, or describe the same action differently. This is why learning the "feel" or "touch" from personal experimentation is so important.

Don't let the above description stop you from asking questions. That is what we are here for - to help where we can.
 

dustmaker

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Oct 22, 2009
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I am new with this, so take my experience with a grain of salt, but I have been experimenting a bit with this process. I never get a satisfactory finish without sanding (I use Micro Mesh) as Lee has said. As far as sanding between coats, I used to do this on every coat, but now I find it better to only sand when things start to roughen or if I get bumps...and then only sand down to a reasonably smooth surface. The idea here is to build up a layer of CA...you don't want to take too much back off. The "Aha" moment for me was in learning the skill of putting on a coat smoothly...and then waiting for it to cure (I sometimes "cheat" and use accelerant). As far as using BLO, I personally never got the nack of it. It seemed I always ended up with some dull places, but YMMV. My current process is MM down to 12000, 2 coats thin, 3 coats medium (Some accelerant if I get impatient), MM down to wherever things start looking smooth (the finish will look roughish, but the surface does not show bumps or pits), then finish with 2 more coats thin. This is just my way, and heck, next week I may be doing something else...I am enjoying the discovery. I hope this helps.
 

dustmaker

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Oct 22, 2009
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I usually apply two or three coats and sand lightly and then a couple of medium CA layers.

If I may offer a suggestion - play with it for a few days. Don't make the goal to be a finished pen. Focus on getting the "feel" of applying CA, sanding it, applying more. Notice little things like white powder (sanding dust) being trapped; dull spots, small pits/holes, rings, . . . and then how to eliminate them. EVERY person has different way to describe the same "feel" and no one's or maybe only a few people will describe the "feel or touch" the same way for the same situation. That is why there are so many different methods.

Actually there are less methods than most people probably think, but the numbers get inflated because of the different ways people interpret the same words, or describe the same action differently. This is why learning the "feel" or "touch" from personal experimentation is so important.

Don't let the above description stop you from asking questions. That is what we are here for - to help where we can.

Lee, you have articulated that very well. I was just thinking the other night that I was indeed "feeling" my way through this process. You just got to be patient and tinker with it until you see what works.

I didn't start making the nicer pens until I got this part down reasonably well. In fact I would suggest getting some extra tubes, turn til round, and just practice...that's what I did. If it goes awry, turn down some more and try again. You can learn a lot faster if you are not actually trying to make a pen.
 

sigge

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Thaks for the tips. I guess it is more or less like I am doing it... I got a bit curious when i saw some videos and it seemed like it came perfect by just applying it. Ok so by reading this it feels like I am on the right track then. Yesterday I think I sanded too much and the whole pen got like white. Think it got too hot maybe...

Thanks for the replies :)
 

PaulSF

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Oct 9, 2009
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San Francisco
Wow, I feel a lot better reading this! I'm new to this too, and my first attempt at CA came out so-so. My second seems to have gone better, although I haven't finished the post-CA application sanding and polishing. The thing I did notice on this second one, applied to purpleheart, is that it makes the wood look fake. I'm not so pleased with that.
 

Bree

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I used to have the same problem and many others. Then I took the advice of somebody on this forum and I followed Russ Fairfield's method exactly. The first thing I discovered was that I had two key steps reversed. I didn't understand what the purpose of the BLO was. The BLO is for curing the CA.

When I followed it exactly it all fell into place very quickly. Then I was able to add my own little tricks to the method.

Have your towels folded, CA and BLO all ready to go. I use an old used towel as the base to put a new folded towel on so the CA doesn't stick to my finger. The old towel also has just the right curve that gets partially imparted to the new towel so it fits perfectly around the blank hugging it.

The sequence is quickly apply your 10 drop puddle of CA to the towel and then wipe it onto the slowly spinning blank(s). One of two smooth passes only. Then quickly put a goodly quantity of BLO right where the CA was on the towel. The BLO puddle is bigger than the CA puddle was. Start wiping it onto the blanks very quickly back and forth. If you have a VS lathe, after a few strokes to smooth out the CA, key up your speed to high and wipe the BLO towel back and forth fast.

It will get hot and start to stink with an odd CA smell. That means it's curing. You will notice that the CA is very glossy. If you did it right there won't be any bumps or ridges... just smooth glossy CA.

Slow the lathe and take a clean towel to wipe any BLO off the blank and repeat. Do so as many times as you wish. I like to go about 7 times. As long as you apply the CA smoothly and use the right amount of BLO cured at high speed, you won't need to sand it until the very last layer. If you somehow get ridges or bumps go ahead and try some 600 grit to see if that will smooth it out and then clean the blank with DNA and hit it again with CA/BLO.

I start sanding that last layer at 2400 MM and go to 12,000 MM. Then I do a China White buff followed by a Carnauba Wax buff. I put the mandrel back and do a Ren Wax application at slow speed followed by a buffing at high speed. The whole thing is very fast and looks great.

I screwed up so many pens trying wacky stuff until I just followed the directions properly. The BLO helps the CA cure and it lubricates it which keeps it smooth as the blank turns on the lathe.

I think as time goes on I will get better at it and get closer to some of the fabulous finishes the guys do here. But they have been doing it for years and years. It will take time and practice.
:wink::wink::wink:
 

sigge

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Malta, Europe
I'll try this version next time and see the result :) Alwasy exciting to see different ways you can screw up your projects haha... Thanks for the tips!
 

Bree

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There is a video by Russ in the library which is very helpful. Link is at the very top of the page and then go to Russ Fairfield's Video Tips.
:wink::wink::wink:
 
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