Newbie ? About CA

[ncboyntx]

Hi everyone,

This is my first post to this forum. What an awesome source of information you all provide.

I have a mini lathe on order due to be delivered next week. I plan on using it for various projects, including making pens (something I have never done). I have used a lathe before in a former profession (I was a pattern maker in another life) but never for anything as small as pens.

This forum has answered a lot of my questions about what I need to get started. I am rather particular about the finished product, hence my question about CA. From the pictures I have seen of CA finished pens, they are absolutely beautiful.

Can someone clue me in on what CA is?

Thanks.

 

[mwvore]

Let me be the first to jump in and welcome you to the group and the wonderful world of Pen Turning.

CA = Cayno Acrylic Glue - to the average man on the street it would be known as Super Glue. But we don't use that brand (does it still exist?). My favorite is Hot Stuff, available at WoodCraft (WC) or Craft Supplies (CSUSA), or almost any other woodworking emporium.

To the meat of your question: How do we apply the finish? There are probably as many answers as there are Pen Makers. Look in the article archives for a more definitive answer. But ...

Briefly my method is:
After turning and sanding to "perfection" From here on ALWAYS wear eye protection, not just glasses, but goggles or a full face shield! CA in the eye is no fun.

Fold a paper towel into a pad (I NEVER bring a rag to the lathe!).

Put a couple drops of BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) on the pad, and apply it to the pen with the lathe at it's slowest speed.

With the pad on the bottom, dribble 3 or 4 drops of THIN CA on the top along the length of the pen keeping the pad moving on the bottom to smooth it out. You are trying to get a perfectly smooth layer. Do this 3 or 4 times (you will find your prefered method.)

Let this dry, I usually wait an hour or so for it to dry fully. Then resand to the highest grit you have, some penmakers go to 12000 MM (MicroMesh). Then I repeat the BLO/CA step again, then resand the finish a second time. Then polish with a Beal Buffing system, or your favorite polishing method.

mike

 

[Fangar]

Intersting method Mike.

ncboyntx. If you have never turned a pen, you might get used to the design and creation just a bit before looking into the CA finish. Not that you would not catch on quickly. It is just that you don't want to frustrate yourself into a quick quit, as I have learned that others have done.

Fangar

 

[ncboyntx]

Mike and Fangar, thanks for the replies. I will take Fangar's advice. Since I have never turned a pen it will be a while before I try the CA method.

Thanks again, I'm sure I will have lots of other questions.

 

[4reel]

Most people will start with a Friction polish such as Mylar and progress from there. I started there, tried CA, then Enduro. I like the enduro the most if takes longer but it is not as fussy asn CA and NO ODOR. Minwax has a water based poly that works as well as enduro if you want to try that instead, Enduro is expensive and you get two quarts when you order. The minwax comes in pints and a pint will do a lot of pens.

 

[Dan]

Ok... first off, its Cyanoacrylate. CA is provided (to we the great unwashed) in three forms - thin, like water, medium, like thin syrup and thick, like frozen syrup. Its a matter of application - the thin is great for sealing soft woods... the medium is good for the majority of (my) applications to fill small irregularities and provide a base to polish. The thick, well, I've never used it. I can't imagine what it might take to work it down to an acceptable finish. The thinner the CA, the faster the set time, so that may be an issue, but between the two, I've never had to use a thick brew.

One thing to remember is that the thinner the CA, the faster it will dry. You'll find your own way my friend, enjoy the journey.

Dan
Unionville, VA