New to kitless with a couple of questions

[JamesC]

My most recent mistake is a stabilized Buckeye Burl. I like a little longer section and a little longer body but the cap got a little long because I developed a crack drilling for an acrylic insert. Got the insert cut to fit and repaired the crack but had to put a little finial on to hide the repair. I couldn't shorten the cap because the liner would be exposed.
Couple of questions..
Does stabilized wood need an insert?
When the cap is attached to the body it appears to fit well but you can feel a little difference in the fit when you turn it in your hand. 13 mm triple start threads. Is this typical?
Thanks, Jim

 

[Penultimate]

Nice work. Looks good to me.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

I think it's best to use an insert instead of threading the wood because the wood threads can get damaged over time. When you say you feel a difference in the fit, do you mean it feels out of round?

 

[Aces-High]

Yes it does. I have tried it without for my own personal pen. Even though it is stabilized, it is not impervious.

 

[TDahl]

Wow. Very nice!

 

[Valleyboy]

I always use an insert in wooden pen caps (I also line the barrel too) only because, having learnt the hard way, even stabilised wood can dry out fountain pen nibs very quickly. I think it varies between woods.

You can get away without using an insert by coating the inside of the cap with lacquer but I didn't enjoy doing that as I found it quite fiddly to do.

Cheers
Ash

 

[JamesC]

Thanks so much. I hadn't thought about the liner keeping the nib wet. I did put an insert in to thread.. has anyone drilled the body and cap and then poured epoxy into the void? This would of course require redrilling but maybe save a little time turning an insert?
Thanks for the replies!
Jim

 

[hamm3rhand]

Thanks so much. I hadn't thought about the liner keeping the nib wet. I did put an insert in to thread.. has anyone drilled the body and cap and then poured epoxy into the void? This would of course require redrilling but maybe save a little time turning an insert?
Thanks for the replies!
Jim

currently working on this puzzle myself with hybrid woods that I want to try to keep the transparent parts, i've tried coating the inside with CA and that seems to do OK, but tricky and messy sometimes. My most recent attempt has been to try to spread some renaissance wax up in the cap...has been doing OK so far but not perfect.

 

[PatrickR]

Thanks so much. I hadn't thought about the liner keeping the nib wet. I did put an insert in to thread.. has anyone drilled the body and cap and then poured epoxy into the void? This would of course require redrilling but maybe save a little time turning an insert?
Thanks for the replies!
Jim

Fred Bruche has done a number of pens by pouring into drilled blanks. I have tried it but found it a little limiting and prefer using ebonite for anything threaded. But you may like it.

 

[JamesC]

I suppose it feels a little out of round. I mount each piece in a collett cut and thread the tenon and drill. Then I extend the piece a bit and get the diameter correct. Flip it around and turn the other end. I have a bunch of mandrel but they don't seem much good except for sanding.

 

[JamesC]

Patrick, isn't ebonite like the most expensive material you can find for liner? I'm curious why not less expensive acrylic? Or maybe I'm looking at ebonite from the wrong supplier?
Jim

 

[PatrickR]

Patrick, isn't ebonite like the most expensive material you can find for liner? I'm curious why not less expensive acrylic? Or maybe I'm looking at ebonite from the wrong supplier?
Jim

Yes ebonite is expensive and the least expensive stuff (india) isn't worth it. It takes a thread far better than acrylic and I consider my time the most valuable part of a pen. I do use acrylic, alumilite etc., made a few that had both used in the sleeve.

 

[JamesC]

Yes ebonite is expensive and the least expensive stuff (india) isn't worth it. It takes a thread far better than acrylic and I consider my time the most valuable part of a pen. I do use acrylic, alumilite etc., made a few that had both used in the sleeve.

Thanks Patrick,
I'm fairly new to the kitless process and have tried every material but ebonite. My scrap box is full of sections that cracked split twisted of and so on ..so far I like alumilite the best. I'm going to try and find some ebonite . That time thing is so true.
Thanks, Jim

 

[PatrickR]

Thanks Patrick,
I'm fairly new to the kitless process and have tried every material but ebonite. My scrap box is full of sections that cracked split twisted of and so on ..so far I like alumilite the best. I'm going to try and find some ebonite . That time thing is so true.
Thanks, Jim

I get it here

https://vermontfreehand.com/rods/

Japanese is the least expensive. i have seen some say it isn't as black but haven't had that problem.
buy enough to get free shipping and you will be set for a while.

 

[hooked]

Thanks Patrick,
I'm fairly new to the kitless process and have tried every material but ebonite. My scrap box is full of sections that cracked split twisted of and so on ..so far I like alumilite the best. I'm going to try and find some ebonite . That time thing is so true.
Thanks

Vermont Freehand has a great selection of ebonite. Three different kinds in multiple diameters if looking for black ebonite. I just bought 12-inch 14-mm SEM rods for $15 each for experimenting with sleeves. 18mm is $20. Japanese is about 1/2 of this price. I find it on par with the pricing of kitless alumilite rods from retailers. The colored ebonite is much more expensive.

I have been experimenting with SEM, NYH, and Japanese ebonite. My one piece of advice is that NYH shines the best (for me), but every pen I have used it in gives off a powerful smell of rotten eggs when uncapping. I do not find that the scent is as strong with SEM and the Japanese ebonite. Just my opinion on the batch of ebonite I have been using.

 

[JamesC]

I get it here

https://vermontfreehand.com/rods/

Japanese is the least expensive. i have seen some say it isn't as black but haven't had that problem.
buy enough to get free shipping and you will be set for a while.

Thanks Patrick..just placed an order for black material.
Jim

Vermont Freehand has a great selection of ebonite. Three different kinds in multiple diameters if looking for black ebonite. I just bought 12-inch 14-mm SEM rods for $15 each for experimenting with sleeves. 18mm is $20. Japanese is about 1/2 of this price. I find it on par with the pricing of kitless alumilite rods from retailers. The colored ebonite is much more expensive.

I have been experimenting with SEM, NYH, and Japanese ebonite. My one piece of advice is that NYH shines the best (for me), but every pen I have used it in gives off a powerful smell of rotten eggs when uncapping. I do not find that the scent is as strong with SEM and the Japanese ebonite. Just my opinion on the batch of ebonite I have been using.

thanks! Just ordered some of the Japanese material as Patrick suggested. It is about the same price as alumilite. Can't wait to mess around with it I am told it gives a section such a nice feel. I have been using Buffalo horn with a sleeve inside for sections. It feels pretty good but sure prone to crack. Kind of pretty too.
Jim

 

[duncsuss]

I am told it gives a section such a nice feel.
Jim

When I make pens with ebonite, I find that normal sanding even with Micromesh or 3-M Trimite (which some call "Zona paper") doesn't get a super glossy black finish. Buffing it makes all the difference.