New Table Saw Gloat

[Tea Clipper]

Well, I gone and done it now! I'm still not sure exactly where I'm going to put this yet. [I turn in a spare bedroom in my apartment, and space is limited with all of the other <s>toys</s> tools in there.] But at $200.99 plus free shipping, how could I say no? I see Amazon raised the price back up to $250, so I guess you got to be quick. I ordered it last Friday and it was just delivered today. I'll wait for this three day weekend to set it up and adjust it in.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFH3AI/104-2950514-4941525

[edited to add picture]

 

[GaryMGg]

Ron,
Congratulations. Looks like you did well for your money. Enjoy yer new toy.
This probably isn't your first TS but maybe it is. I was curious as to the specs and looked at the reviews. The one thing that glared at me was the comment about how easy it is to move the fence out of square to the blade. One user wrote that they could easily move it by as much as 1/16".
I highlight this because that's a safety issue to be aware of. It doesn't take away from the value of your acquisition. Rather, knowing that's a potential issue gives you an opportunity to be safer. If the saw has dual miter guides (the specs weren't complete yet it looks like it does) make and always use a sled.
If you must rip something, especially something short, use a stopped fence so nothing can be trapped between the supplied fence and the blade.
Have fun, enjoy it, be safe, and show us your results. []
Cheers,
Gary

 

[Tea Clipper]

Thanks Gary, good advice there. The TS is still in the box, I'll know more by this weekend. I plan on making a sled, and yes it does have dual miter slots (however they are non-standard slots). This will be my first TS, so I appreciate the safety tips.

 

[RogerGarrett]

Originally posted by Tea Clipper
<br />Thanks Gary, good advice there. The TS is still in the box, I'll know more by this weekend. I plan on making a sled, and yes it does have dual miter slots (however they are non-standard slots). This will be my first TS, so I appreciate the safety tips.

Safety tips:

Never stand directly behind the cut - stay off to the left (if a right tilt saw). Kickbacks will happen - regardless of the equipment you have - beter safe than sorry.

Leave the cuttoffs alone until the blade has stopped - don't be impatient and try to get it out of the way when the blade is engaged. Bye-bye fingers!

Try to keep the table free of debris

Do not try unusual cuts - such as ripping width-wise - with the piece pinched between blade and fence - a classic opportunity for a kickback.

Use push sticks - make your own - but be aware of where your hands and fingers are at all times.

Do not wear loose fitting clothing - it iwll bite you in the ass at some point!

If you get good with a table saw, you will find that this particular saw it underpowered and has less capability regarding larger pieces of wood. Still - Jet is a great name - and I have no doubt that you are ready to have fun!

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[ahoiberg]

nice! just be smart with it and it'll treat you nice. i had about a 6" x 12" piece of OSB thrown back at me my first week owning a table saw. needless to say, it hurt. so make sure you're out of the way of kickback! []

enjoy... and watch out for that sawdust...

 

[Tea Clipper]

Thanks for the tips Roger. The TS instruction manual has a section on safety that I have read a few times now, and your information re-enforces what they have (which is a good thing).

Question: When using a sled, is it okay to pull the sled back towards you after making a cut with the saw still running? I do this all of the time with the sled on my bandsaw, but the table saw may be different.

 

[GaryMGg]

To add a few points:

Never pull the piece back past the blade after making a through cut when using only a miter gauge.

NB: When using my sled with a zero-tolerance throat, no slack, and square to the blade, I can clamp the wood in place and therefore don't have to be concerned if I pull the saw back through the blade. Besides, your hands aren't near the spinning blade.

To me, the concern is:
If you're using a miter gauge to make a crosscut, that piece may move a hair when you push it through the blade. When you pull the gauge back, if that piece engages the blade again, it can whip into the blade pulling your hand with it because you're on the backside of the spin and can end up at the front of the blade. Oops and ow.

If the thought of what you're about to do makes you nervous, don't do it. Trust that instinct.

You'll find tons of suggestions on push sticks, sleds and TS jigs online. And, in my opinion, if you should choose to read ONE source, Kelly Mehler is the author. He has consulted to numerous TS manufacturers regarding saw safety and is a great craftsman as well as a nice individual. He truly knows how to teach TS use safely and effectively.

Gary

 

[armyturner]

I have one of these saws and if I had it to do over again I wouldn't. Mine has trouble ripping pine 2"x4" as well as 1/2" plywood. The miter slots are not standard, so the $60 miter guage that I bought won't work with it. I haven't been able to find a zero tolerence throat plate, though I guess one could be made. I think that it would be a good hobby saw for thin woods but sometimes I need to cut bigger pieces. The fence is also a litle weak.

This is just my opinion on the saw. I hope you like it better than I do.

 

[Tea Clipper]

I hear what you're saying Jeremy, I knew there would be good and bad things going in. I won't know for sure until I get it set up this weekend, so I might be singing the same tune! []