New Pr casts

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bitshird

bitshird

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Joined
Aug 27, 2007
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10,236
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Adamsville, TN, USA.
PR-cast-3.jpg

PR-cast-2.jpg

PR-cast-1.jpg


Now if I just had a few decent kits, I think these might look OK, I'm just not ready to fill these up with Plain Jane Slimlines, These really want to be Sedonas or dare I say even a Baron? [:eek:)]:D
These were square, caast in one of Gadgets silicon molds, I love that thing, Gotta get another one or three, The colorant used in these was just Pearl X the reason they are round is I have no drill press at home, actually I don't even have a wood lathe, But I do have a Jet 920 metal lathe so I turn every thing round, then drill with a drill chuck in the tailstock and the piece chucked in a 3 jaw chuck.
 
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pentex

pentex

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Joined
May 23, 2007
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469
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Granbury, Texas, USA.
Those really look good. I poured my first casting a day ago and it is still not set-up. Don't know what I done, but it was not right. Used acrylic paint instead of the pearlx, so maybe that is the problem. If you don't mind, tell me how you mixed all those colors. Thanks.
 
bitshird

bitshird

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Joined
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Messages
10,236
Location
Adamsville, TN, USA.
Originally posted by pentex

Those really look good. I poured my first casting a day ago and it is still not set-up. Don't know what I done, but it was not right. Used acrylic paint instead of the pearlx, so maybe that is the problem. If you don't mind, tell me how you mixed all those colors. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Harold,I mix the two colors of pearlx at the same ratio about 1/4 tsp per OZ of resin two 4.5 OZ batches. I used the resin from Mr Fiberglass, first I vacuumed the PR after mixing the Pearl X for about 5 minutes then added the Catalyst at 10 drops per OZ as recomended by the supplier. after stiring both batches with the catalyst for roughly 2 minutes each, I vacuumed them again for 8 minutes then poured the blue first into two sections of the mold filled them about 2/3rds full and then poured the gold 2/3rs full in the other two slots.
next I drizzle?? the other color into the other alow them to set for in my case about another 10 or 15 min untill they get started thickening (GELLING) then use a piece of wire stirring in a spiral in each cavity, The seperation is pretty natural and gives the effect of using several shqades of Pearl X it's been a great learning experience that just got started. My shop temperature is about 65 to 70 degrees so I think I'm safe, I just hate working around that smell [xx(][:eek:)]
 
bitshird

bitshird

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Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
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Location
Adamsville, TN, USA.
Originally posted by cowchaser

I do have a drill press and a lathe so send me your next 10 square ones and I'll take care of them for you. :D

They do look great.
Click to expand...
Gosh Dustin thanks for the offer and the compliment, you guys are such a warm caring bunch,:D I didn't say I didn't have a lathe, just not a wood lathe [}:)][}:)][}:)]
 
its_virgil

its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
Messages
8,130
Location
Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
Harold,
I've used several things for coloring PR and acrylic is the only one that caused the PR to take a long time to cure or never cure at all. Some colors were worse than others. Were you using acrylic paint or acrylic pigment. The pigment is much thicker and seemed to work better for me. I've also had good luck with India Ink. Mixol tints are good and available from Woodcraft and other places.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
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