New G0555

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
R

RDH79

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
1,566
Location
Rimersburg, Pa, USA.
Well I finally got the new saw put together. Was all excited about ripping some pieces down for pen blanks. So the first time to use the saw and I turned it on and it seemed like it was running slow. The Craftsman I have seems to really spin. So I checked the the pulleys and it was on the high speed ones. OK So I got a piece of maple (about 1/2" thick) and put it againest the fence . Started to push it through and it was so hard to push I thought something was wrong. I called Grizzly tech support but they were no help. I checked the guides and they are not pinching the blade. The wheels seem to spin freely with not much drag.
I did manage to cut some wood but i had to really push hard. And it didnt burn its way through. Could it be the blade that came with it? I think I read on here that the blade that comes with it is really bad. Any ideas?? Thanks
Also where is the best place to buy good blades?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I know this sounds silly but is your blade mounted with teeth pointing down? I have a friend who installed his blade upside down and had a hard time cutting until he realized his mistake. I have the G0555 and it doesn't seem slow to me.
 
No its right. Funny thing is it doesnt burn the wood It has a nice clean cut but its really hard to push through. I worked in a furniture factory for 19 yrs and ran some really big bandsaws. They would cut 6in thick stuff like butter. I'm really thinking its the blade. It doesnt seem to have any set to the teeth. I will order a couple blades tonight and see what that does.
 
I assume you cleaned any protective coating from the table and or fence. Many times equipment is delivered with what used to called cosmoline...usually a waxy greasy coating to prevent rusting while stored/shipped. Usually need to clean off coating and then apply paste wax or some other protective coating to the surfaces.
 
My Ridgid BS came in with the motor going in reverse. First time I powered up I didn't notice it, but first time I cut something it was obvious. Besides not wanting to cut well, the saw dust all went up, not down. Just another wild thought, and I'm not an electrician so take it for what is worth (nothing), but any chance your motor is wired for 240V and your plugged into 110V. Probably wouldn't work under these circumstances, but I once had a motor that ran very slow, compared to the one I had replaced. Found that it was wired for 240V. Once I changed the wiring it ran fine.
 
My saw came with belt set on highest speed just like manual said.


My saw ran okay with supplied belt, ordered Lenox FB blades next day after set up.

Get them from toolcente.rcom
 
Last edited:
Get a TimberWolf 3/4" or 1/2" blade with 3 or 4 teeth per inch and it will cut... guaranteed! If it doesn't, than your machine is not set up properly. I have the same saw and it cuts.
:wink::wink::wink:
 
Definitely clean and eax the table top. Having to push "hard" is dangerous to the health and life of your fingers. If you push hard an slip even a little bit ... well, hopefully you get my drift.

Keeping the tabletop surface clean and waxed is a great improvement to the use of the table saw. Also, keep the blade clean of any resin buildup. Even waxing the blade on both sides will improve the cutting ability of the saw.

I hope you don't have a bad motor and have to go through that experience.

Good luck and report back as to what improvements those blades make to your cutting abilities.

BE CAREFUL AND QUIT PUSHING - only bad things will come if you continue to 'force' the saw to cut.
 
I just read this thread and since I am a first time Band saw owner and its only a 10" Craftsmen I bought used with no books or anything except blade size. I downloaded the instruction book off the web. I have a question that may seem stupid for you long time Band saw owners, What type of wax do you use for the blade and also what is a good lubricant to use on the bed that I could also use on my table saw and lathe bed? I thought since you guys had mentioned about waxing and lubricating I would ask here, I have been trying to figure out where would be a good place to ask anyhow. Thanks Len
 
I use Johnson's paste wax on the beds of all of my tools-bandsaw, lathe, drill press and table saw. I clean the beds with Tool Saver and a green scrubby, wipe it down and then let it sit for 5 minutes and then buff it off with a soft cloth. Then I apply Johnson's paste wax and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, then buff it off with a piece of old towel. I do this at least once a month and more if I am using the machine a lot. I do this to my lathe more frequently and then the CA doesn't stick and if I wet sand the bed doesn't rust at all. On my lathe I wax the tool rests, my bushings, and anything else that might bet CA or water on it. Keeps everything moving easily and rust free.
 
Thanks nava1uni thats one of the problems I am having is the CA sticking to my lathe bed. I just thought of another question.. is there anything I can put on the bushings I keep rubbing over them when I sand and then if I am using light wood (maple or similar) I end up getting darkening at the ends. I know the easiest thing would be not to sand the bushings but its hard when I am doing the very ends. Maybe its just that I am buying cheap bushings IDK. Thanks for any and all help. Len
 
Len Shreck said:
Thanks nava1uni thats one of the problems I am having is the CA sticking to my lathe bed. I just thought of another question.. is there anything I can put on the bushings I keep rubbing over them when I sand and then if I am using light wood (maple or similar) I end up getting darkening at the ends. I know the easiest thing would be not to sand the bushings but its hard when I am doing the very ends. Maybe its just that I am buying cheap bushings IDK. Thanks for any and all help. Len
Click to expand...

I do the bulk of my sanding with the bushings in place but when I get to the final sanding I remove the bushings and mount the blank between centers for final sanding. You will need a dead center and a live center to do this. That took care of my sanding dust from bushings problem.
 
Hi Fred Yea I unplugged it and am waiting on new blades. 19 yrs in a furniture factory I seen alot of things. So I know when to stop. Thanks for the info. Just got notice my blades are being shipped UPS Probably mid next week. Rich H
 
Jim I have never thought of doing the sanding between centers. Its amazing something so simple right in front of my face and never thought of it. Thanks for the idea it will deff help on a Maple pen I am working on now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom