monophoto
Member
I've just been turning for a few months, and have found that one of the things I enjoy making is bottle stoppers. Here are some examples.
Maple with walnut inlay (1) - I embedded some 1/2" walnut dowel into the blank in parallel with the turning axis - creates a nice swirly pattern on the side. Finished in wipe-on poly.
Maple with walnut celtic knot, WOP finish (3) - this example was preceded by 'school piece' - one that is so bad that I won'tshow it, but that taught me a lot of important lessons. Major learnings:
1. the thickness of the inlay must be exactly the same as the width of the saw kerf.
2. Sawing must be precise. One solution is a jig - for this one, I simply clamped a stop block on the miter gage on the table saw, and left the set up alone until I had finished all the cuts.
Cocobolo (2) - lovely grain and very glossy. First attempt at finishing was a failure - it never dried. Had to sand off and refinish. Wiped down with acetone, then three coats of Zinsser sanding sealer, buffed lightly with 4/0 steel wool, and followed by four coats of WOP.
Maple with walnut inlay (1) - I embedded some 1/2" walnut dowel into the blank in parallel with the turning axis - creates a nice swirly pattern on the side. Finished in wipe-on poly.
Maple with walnut celtic knot, WOP finish (3) - this example was preceded by 'school piece' - one that is so bad that I won'tshow it, but that taught me a lot of important lessons. Major learnings:
1. the thickness of the inlay must be exactly the same as the width of the saw kerf.
2. Sawing must be precise. One solution is a jig - for this one, I simply clamped a stop block on the miter gage on the table saw, and left the set up alone until I had finished all the cuts.
Cocobolo (2) - lovely grain and very glossy. First attempt at finishing was a failure - it never dried. Had to sand off and refinish. Wiped down with acetone, then three coats of Zinsser sanding sealer, buffed lightly with 4/0 steel wool, and followed by four coats of WOP.
