NEJE Laser Engraver Questions

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
qquake

qquake

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
5,052
Location
Northern California
Really? That's all there is to it? You just set the engraver on a table and the piece to be engraved under it? How do you keep the engraving straight on the pen? It seems to me that it wouldn't take much to engrave off kilter just a little, and ruin the pen.

And a 20w for $200? Really?

www.banggood.com

New NEJE 20W Laser Engraver Cutter Laser Engraving Machine Desktop CNC Wood Router APP Control for Windows/Mac/Android Laser Equipment from Industrial & Scientific on banggood.com

Online Shopping at Banggood.com！
www.banggood.com www.banggood.com
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have two if the 3.5watt (or 7w, i don't remember). They are a big improvement over the box version. I bought it fronm Nancy McIntyre...around that price.
 
The 3.5w will engrave wood, leather, antler. Without a rotary, yes, you will need to make sure your pen is straight. The laser will do an area sweep to show you exactly where you will be engraving. It also has an adjustment so you can move it up, down, left or right before you start to engrave. Watch some videos. There's a bunch of them on youtube.
 
I've already watched several videos, but haven't found one with the information I need. I'm trying to decide if I can engrave my own pens, or if it would be an exercise in futility.
 
Okay, I've watched several more videos, and these are my observations.

1. I probably only need the 3500mw (3.5w).
2. I won't need a rotary jig for single lines of text.
3. Setup is super easy. Just set the pen on something that keeps it from moving. A small sand or bean bag maybe?

One thing I haven't seen is filling the engraving with paint. On acrylic pens, the engraving place I use engraves through a piece of masking tape. They fill the engraving with paint, then peel off the tape once it dries. I'm assuming I can do the same thing. Opinions?
 
The 3.5w doesn't really engrave that deep. With wood, you can have the laser do multiple burns of the same pattern and it will eventually get a little deeper. With multiple burns though, you want to make sure you DO NOT MOVE the pen at all. I have not engraved on acrylic, so I'm not sure how that would work. I did a little mica powder inlay on a pen but I had to engrave a few times to get the engraving deep enough to be able to fill the engraving with the powder. I'm sure the stronger lasers, 7w and 20w will burn deeper but I don't have one of those to try.
 

Attachments

  • Front.jpg
    Front.jpg
    410.5 KB · Views: 372
I just can't decide. It seems simple enough, at least for single lines of engraving. But what if I can't figure out the software? Or run into other unforseen problem(s)?
 
Although the 3.5W will allow you to engrave on pens without the need for a rotary jig, the higher powered lasers allow for far greater flexibility and options down the road. The software isn't too difficult to learn - and unforseen problems do occur. If you buy from Nancy (https://nmclasers.com/shop/) you will get pretty good service as well as someone who is willing to answer your questions. Also, the way they measure the wattage on the blue lasers is somewhat different than how they measure it on a CO2 laser. It is my understanding that a 20W blue diode laser doesn't produce the same cutting ability as a 20W CO2 laser.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered a 7w from Nancy (NMC Lasers). It was more expensive than other suppliers, but it will be worth it for the support. Plus, the other suppliers are all Chinese companies, and you never know if they can be trusted. I'm excited right now, I hope I don't end up frustrated...

 
Just remember, you will get frustrated at times but you've made a good choice. There is a learning curve but it is worth it to suck with it. The more you play with it the more comfortable it will become.
 
qquake said:
Okay, I've watched several more videos, and these are my observations.

1. I probably only need the 3500mw (3.5w).
2. I won't need a rotary jig for single lines of text.
3. Setup is super easy. Just set the pen on something that keeps it from moving. A small sand or bean bag maybe?

One thing I haven't seen is filling the engraving with paint. On acrylic pens, the engraving place I use engraves through a piece of masking tape. They fill the engraving with paint, then peel off the tape once it dries. I'm assuming I can do the same thing. Opinions?
Click to expand...
My wife does a lot of crafts using scrabble tile and is forever bring entire games home. I took a couple of the tile trays and use them as a trough to hold my blanks steady.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
qquake said:
Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered a 7w from Nancy (NMC Lasers). It was more expensive than other suppliers, but it will be worth it for the support. Plus, the other suppliers are all Chinese companies, and you never know if they can be trusted. I'm excited right now, I hope I don't end up frustrated...
Click to expand...
Any chance we could get an update?

I am looking at this model as well, but it is out of stock.
 
Madman1978 said:
Any chance we could get an update?

I am looking at this model as well, but it is out of stock.
Click to expand...
I had forgotten about this thread. I love the engraver, and am having a lot of fun with it. But I haven't quite gotten engraving acrylic figured out. However, I'm doing pretty good with wood. I've also used it for other fun things like wood gift tags.
 

Attachments

  • 001.jpg
    001.jpg
    207.4 KB · Views: 221
  • 002.jpg
    002.jpg
    129.9 KB · Views: 212
  • 003.jpg
    003.jpg
    137.2 KB · Views: 259
  • 004.jpg
    004.jpg
    121.7 KB · Views: 227
  • 005.jpg
    005.jpg
    80.9 KB · Views: 224
  • 006.jpg
    006.jpg
    229.5 KB · Views: 203
  • 007.jpg
    007.jpg
    109.8 KB · Views: 202
  • 008.jpg
    008.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 203
  • 009.jpg
    009.jpg
    109.2 KB · Views: 210
  • 010.jpg
    010.jpg
    85.4 KB · Views: 209
  • 011.jpg
    011.jpg
    149.3 KB · Views: 249
  • 20210320_204549.mp4
    11.8 MB
  • 20210320_204801.mp4
    22 MB
  • 20210320_204850.mp4
    22.4 MB
  • 20210320_205532.mp4
    11.5 MB
  • 20210320_205714.mp4
    21.8 MB
  • 20210320_205753.mp4
    21.9 MB
SteveJ said:
Although the 3.5W will allow you to engrave on pens without the need for a rotary jig, the higher powered lasers allow for far greater flexibility and options down the road. The software isn't too difficult to learn - and unforseen problems do occur. If you buy from Nancy (https://nmclasers.com/shop/) you will get pretty good service as well as someone who is willing to answer your questions. Also, the way they measure the wattage on the blue lasers is somewhat different than how they measure it on a CO2 laser. It is my understanding that a 20W blue diode laser doesn't produce the same cutting ability as a 20W CO2 laser.
Click to expand...
Steve a 20w diode (that's the input power) laser delivers less than 5w output power to the material. It is also a very different wavelength from the CO2 laser. A 20w CO2 is roughly 4x more powerful at the material. Blue diode will pass right thru optically clear material and burn what is behind it. CO2 wavelength is absorbed by clear, such as alumalite, and will etch it nicely. It will also vaporize our cast resins with a smooth sharp edge, unlike the melting of a diode laser. I hope that helps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom