Natural Finish vs. CA Finish on wood

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Pete275

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
442
Location
Houston, Tx.
I got an order for 15 pens for Christmas. The pens will all be made of wood and will be Laser engraved to personalize them. I know the preferred finish is CA but I was wondering if maybe I shouldn't do some of them in a natural finish ie. Mylands friction polish or would that be a bad idea? If so which types of wood age best with a natural finish? He wants these pens to be keepsake type gifts. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Wayne
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Hello Everyone has their own ideas.I have been doing a friction finish for several years now and have never had a problem with it holding up.Unlike others will tell you.
I was using the pkfrict3 from psi.But I am now trying out the finish from the wooddoctors shop.There are two parts one is a high build finish polish and the other has a carnuba wax and shellic in it and it dries very hard and deep shine.
 
The odds are the pens will "stared at" more than "written with" so do you really gotta worry about the finish lasting? :)

Sounded like you were thinking of doing a few one way and some the other so I say go for it. I think some people go overboard with the CA glue ending up with a wooden pen that looks like plastic. Some people mention using 20-30 coats of medium CA sanding between every 3 coats. Well the engineer in me hears that statement and is already estimating the thickness of 20-30 coats of medium CA and realizing that they are probably sanding off more than 80% of what they apply.
 
Are they going to be engraved before or after? If before, you might want to get a couple of samples and see how the different finishes act on the depth change of the engraving, i.e. do you get a gummy buildup on one side, is the CA catching, etc.

If after, will you need to add more finish so the wood doesn't absorb moisture differently and possibly crack or something else?
 
Several woods can just be turned, sanded and buffed, no finish, Lignum Vitae will last a long time with out any finish, and still look good. Ebony is another, although it presents cracking problems, but if it doesn't crack,( which does happen) just not often, it will also look good just sanded/ mm and buffed.
 
You can get a matte finish with CA if you want protection. Some people do prefer the more natural look.

As to wax only type of finishes - Some people will take care of a pen like this, but from years on this forum, I have heard more that will not. I personally was embarrassed the first time I gave a pen that I "waxed" with EEE and spent a couple of hours doing it. While the recipient was holding it, wiping it and trying it out over an hour during our meeting, it began to develop dull spots. That was when I decided to use CA and not long after that, discovered that I could make CA have a matte finish.

I have a long woodworking background and love the look of natural wood with a patina hand rubbed shine. But fine wood finishes have to cleaned and waxed regularly to be at its best. A pen is hand held a huge amount of time as compared to how much fine furniture is touched. And a pen is placed into the humidity of a shirt pocket and faces caustic sweat of hands much more than fine furniture. This puts it into a different category.

IF the recipient knows this and takes care of (respects) the waxed pen as a work of art, then it will work. One of the complaints from some fine pen makers on this forum was that when a pen is sold with a natural finish and the buyer did not take care of it like they should, (even if they are told and warned to take care of it,) then the pen would display dirt and grime after months to a year. When this happens, the buyer will blame the seller and in some cases the seller's negative reputation is brought into play.

There are some pen makers that will not give away a pen that has a defect in it. I think we all think of doing that and my wife had a couple of mine that I was about to dismantle and just throw the blanks aways. Well, she didn't see the flaws like I did and showed them proudly to all. Guess what kind of reputation those gave for me! If a person does not take care of the waxed pen, you will be the one that carries the weight (reputation) of producing a grimy pen after it has been in use for a year or so and not taken properly care of. If your reputation of producing fine writing instruments is important, give a card with a detailed explanation of taking care and cleaning the fine writing instrument. Give a small cleaning cloth to go with it and adjust the price accordingly. Waxed wood, especially with pens take a special cleaning to keep it clean.
 
Last edited:
I would rather have the CA finish. I like the shine and I know the finish will last. I have used other finishes and when it is used about every day it starts to fade out and dull down. I don't want to take that chance anymore. I like putting out a good product that will look just as good in a year from now as it looks today.
 
what kind of engraving?

If your using a color fill your going to need something that completely seals the wood or your color fill is going to bleed into the wood and you'll have a halo around the engraving. so You may have to go with a CA finish
 
I have several friends who do not like the plastic feel of a CA finish. Many more stare with wonder at a pen with a CA finish. For those who say they want to "feel" the wood that the pen is made of, I use two or more coats of polymerized Tung Oil. But I told all of them that they have the two choices and that I'm not getting involved in the hundreds of different types of finishes that are available. To each his own!:biggrin:
 
You might try the new General Finish wiping poly. It is water based, and you put it on in thin coats with the lathe spinning. It protects like CA, and is almost as fast to apply, but the look is more of a natural wood finish. I think it is called Woodturner's Finish and is available from Rockler and Woodcraft.
 
Back
Top Bottom