Mylands friction polish

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hazard

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Evansville, wi, USA.
Does anyone use this stuff. This is what I used for my first pen. It went on easy and seems to be holding up to my use over the last week. I was wondering if this is a durable product. Will it last 1yr, 2yr, 5yr etc. Is it comparable to the CA finish that alot are using?

Is this a finish that would be worthy of a higher end pen

Thanks
Chris
 
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When I started with pens, I used the Myland's. I choose that product after watching a bowl turning demonstration and was impressed. It is easy to use and drys almost instantly. Well...while Myland's is a fine product, it is not suitable for pens. The wear quality simply is not there. It does not hold up to handling. Fine for a bowl that sits on a shelf and is just looked at. But not for stuff that is handled.
 
Chris,
You are asking a VERY controversial question. We use Mylands Sanding sealer and friction polish on about 90% of our pens, CA on the rest. If the friction polish is put on properly it dose hold up nicely, I will not debate the fact that it won't hold up like a CA finish. It depends on what you want the pen to look like and or feel like. I personally like the feel with the mylands, CA makes the wood feel like plastic IMHO, but leaves a much deeper, shinier finish.
Bottom line is that you need to figure out what works best for you.
Hope this helps.
Dawn
 
Different strokes for different pens. I don't want all of my pens to look alike. Of course the CA finish gives a high end look.But I like diversity in the looks.IMHO
 
On those rare occasions that I use FP, Mylands is the only one I currently use. There is a lacquer based FP that I want to try, but haven't dropped the dime on it yet.
 
I used to use Mylands FP, but I have switched because too many of my pens lost the shine. Some lost it just sitting in the case. As far as the plastic feel that others point to, it really depends on thick of a CA finish you use. In my opinion, you can keep the wood feel with a thiner CA and still out last FP.
 
hi,I use Mylands friction polish and find that it works well.I use 4 coats,then top it with PPP wax.However i came to realize that CA finish is the way to go for some types of blanks,so i do both depending on what i`m after Carl
 
thanks for the comments. Since I am new to this I am just feeling out which way I want to head if I want to become serious beyond making christmas presents for the family. I want a quality fish that will last.

fernhills: which woods do you use this polish on?

Chris
 
Originally posted by hazard
<br />I had an article on the CA finish. I will look at that and some old posts

thanks
Chris
Click to expand...

try these:

http://content.penturners.org/articles/2004/ca-blo.pdf

http://content.penturners.org/articles/2004/cafinish1.pdf

http://content.penturners.org/articles/2006/donwardca.pdf
 
Originally posted by hazard
<br />thanks for the comments. Since I am new to this I am just feeling out which way I want to head if I want to become serious beyond making christmas presents for the family. I want a quality fish that will last.

fernhills: which woods do you use this polish on?

Chris
Click to expand...
Hi,I have used Mylands on most woods,I used CA on Wenge, And Antler so far either becaue it was brittle or splinting or i had voids to fill.. Carl
 
My first pen class we only used Mylands Friction Polish, and I still use it more to finish pens then any other method. My wife and I took a pen turning class in December her Mylands finished pen is holding up well, sometime around Feb, mine went in the washing machine with a shirt and I had to throw it away. Mylands does not hold up well in the washing machine.
 
[:)]Yep,i`m sure CA has it uses,just like the plastic seat covers in moms living room sofa back in the 50s..Pens are a or can be a product that lasts a life time or one that changes with the styles of the time.So why seal it in a plastic cover why save it,enjoy it now,besides thier is enough plastic products out there to use for pens and other matiarals that warrant a glue finnish,why not keep wood,wood and avoid the question when someone is looking at your pens and ask is this plastic or is it wood? Bear with me i have much to learn yet.. Carl
 
Originally posted by fernhills
<br />[:)]why not keep wood,wood and avoid the question when someone is looking at your pens and ask is this plastic or is it wood?
Click to expand...

Carl, I think you've stumbled upon the "controversy" part of this! The reason for me to encase my wood pens (and other handled turnings) in CA is to protect the wood. Some woods just don't look good once they've darkened or changed because of the patina from oily hands or spilled water or dirty fingers, etc. If I can protect the wood to "keep wood wood" I'm gonna do it. For me, CA gives the protection and choosing a matte or glossy finish to match my style is the challenge.

IMHO
 
Give this a try and see how the finish holds up to daily use.

Turn as usual and sand to the degree that you are comfortable with.

Apply a CA finish and let it cure for a bit. Try to avoid the use of any accelerator.

Re-sand to smooth a finish as possible. THEN ... add the Mylands High Yield Friction Polish. Build up several layers as seems to be necessary. Let the finish harden off overnight. Avoid handling the finish and in the morning buff with Carnauba wax. This wax is very hard and extremely durable and thus will protect the Mylands which over time does tend to lose it's shine.

I use this procedure on my bowls that get handled a good bit and so far I am extremely happy with the results. I believe the trick is to let the CA and the Mylands set up at least overnight and then finish the item. [:D]
 
Originally posted by Fred_erick
<br />Give this a try and see how the finish holds up to daily use.

Turn as usual and sand to the degree that you are comfortable with.

Apply a CA finish and let it cure for a bit. Try to avoid the use of any accelerator.

Re-sand to smooth a finish as possible. THEN ... add the Mylands High Yield Friction Polish. Build up several layers as seems to be necessary. Let the finish harden off overnight. Avoid handling the finish and in the morning buff with Carnauba wax. This wax is very hard and extremely durable and thus will protect the Mylands which over time does tend to lose it's shine.

I use this procedure on my bowls that get handled a good bit and so far I am extremely happy with the results. I believe the trick is to let the CA and the Mylands set up at least overnight and then finish the item. [:D]
Click to expand...

I picked up some medium CA and will try this stuff soon.

thanks
Chris
 
Lord, here we go again.

For my part, Myland's is the best fp I've used. It shines quickly, and it's more durable than some of the others. It's much, much easier than ca or ca/blo or lacquer. But it is far less durable.
 
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