My Next Gouge??

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Drewboy22

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Joined
Aug 21, 2015
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Location
San Antonio, Tx
So I got some Gift cards for woodcraft for Christmas. I am wanting to make some small bowls, plates, saucers ect... I just bought a Nova G3 chuck and now I need to know which bowl gouge to go with.

I have between $100 and $150 to spend but if I don't have to spend it all I don't want to.

My lathe has a 10" swing so the bowls will not be huge.

Any help?

Thanks,

Drew
 
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Get a 3/8 bowl gouge. It is big enough for larger items and small enough to get into tighter spaces such as the bottom of smaller bowls.

You will also need to decide on the grind you want on it - regular or fingernail. They both have advantages and disadvantages. If you will only have one I would probably go with a regular grind as it gets into the bottom better. Fingernail grinds are also more difficult to sharpen. I use the vari grind on the Wolverine system. Of course you can always change it. I changed one of my regular grinds to a fingernail grind.

As far as brands go, any that Woodcraft sells are good. I have 5 bowl gouges all with different grinds. Brands include Sorby, Pinnacle / Woodriver (woodcraft's own brand) and like both. Pinnacle is less expensive and the shape of the flute is more of a V than a U. I also own Benjamin's Best from PSI. I don't think they hold an edge quite as long but for the price I don't mind.
 
Drewboy22 said:
So I got some Gift cards for woodcraft for Christmas. I am wanting to make some small bowls, plates, saucers ect... I just bought a Nova G3 chuck and now I need to know which bowl gouge to go with.

I have between $100 and $150 to spend but if I don't have to spend it all I don't want to.

My lathe has a 10" swing so the bowls will not be huge.

Any help?

Thanks,

Drew
Click to expand...

It all comes down to two things when choosing the correct tool for the task you want to do. The feel of the tool in your hand as you turn something, and if it is correctly sharpened for your style of turning. You can buy the most expensive gouge out there, but if it doesn't feel right or not properly sharpened, you will never be happy with it. On the other hand, you can buy a so-so gouge, and if it feels good in your hand, and is sharpened correctly, you will be tickled pink with the results. Woodcraft usually has a shop set up in their stores for classes and demos. Ask the personal there if you could try out some of the tools that they have to see what feels correct for your style of turning. They can also help you with how to use the tools in order to obtain the best results with different ones. And check out the difference between high speed steel and carbon tipped tools. Everyone has different tastes, budgets, and styles, so using the tools is the best way to find out if you like something or not. My choice of tools may be good for me, but not for the next person. Jim S
 
Drew

For my Jet 1014, a pair of 3/8 bowl gouges work well. They are ground differently.

One is ground steeply as a "bottom feeder" and the other has a 40 degree bowl gouge grind with moderate wings.

You already know the practice practice practice mantra.

If you need some inspiration on fine work with a bowl gouge watch Ashley Harwood do an ornament finial with a 1/2 inch bowl gouge for most of the work.

Note also that sharpening is key to success.
 
I understand you may be on a budget but I would look at Carter and Son Toolworks as they have an American made tool with a 20 year warranty. You will never need to buy another one of the same profile again. They also hold their edge better. Most Woodcraft have or can get them. I use them all the time.
 
Yes to the 3/8" bowl gouge for now. You will want to get a larger gouge when you move to a bigger lathe.

Thompson tools, D-Way tools, Sorby, OneWay, Carter. Get HSS steel.
Shy away from the Wood River tools at Woodcraft as they will dull quicker and require more sharpening. Better steel means more time turning and less time sharpening.
With some of these, you can just buy the tool and make your own handle.

Yes to the Wolverine set up with the Varigrind jig. Also thumbs up to CBN wheels for your grinder.
 
personally - I will not buy a Carter & Son tool based on how I heard (from reputable source) that he "stole" tooling design/manufacturer information from D-Way. I also do not like their aluminium handles - too heavy and too short...and cold when you grab one in a cold garage.

From Woodcraft - I would recommend the following tools:

Crown ProPM Elsworth 1/2" gouge: Buy Crown Pro-PM Ellsworth Signature Bowl Gouge 1/2" at Woodcraft.com
Crown ProPM 1/2" gouge (without Elsworth grind): Buy Crown Bowl Gouge 1/2" at Woodcraft.com (buy this one and put your own Elsworth grind on it for nearly half the cost...it's the same tool as above!)

Crown ProPM Elsworth 3/8" gouge: Buy Crown David Ellsworth Signature Gouge 3/8" at Woodcraft.com
Crown ProPm 3/8"(without Elsworth grind): Buy Crown Bowl Gouge 3/8" at Woodcraft.com (buy this one and put your own Elsworth grind on it for nearly half the cost...it's the same tool as above!)

Pinnacle 1/2" Cryo bowl gouge: Buy Pinnacle Cryogenic Fingernail Bowl Gouge 1/2" at Woodcraft.com
Pinnacle 3/8" Cryo bowl gouge: Buy Pinnacle Cryogenic Fingernail Bowl Gouge 3/8" at Woodcraft.com

your best buy is the Crown ProPM gouges, especially if you can get them on clearance. Since you're in Texas, I know for a fact - that if you're in a turning club, the Texas Woodcraft stores will give you an additional 10% off your IN-STORE purchases on the day of your club meeting. I do not know if they will give you an additional 10% off on top of the clearance price.

If you don't have it, I would also recommend a One-way Wolverine grinding sharpening system with a Vari-grind jig (available at Woodcraft also), and if you want to replicate an Elsworth grind - that jig is available directly from David, or from CSUSA: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/94/1562/Ellsworth-Grinding-Jig?term=ellsworth jig

I've got several of the ProPM gouges and can attest that they take and hold an edge. If you've got a 180 grit CBN wheel, you'll grind a very nice edge and won't eat up tool steel as fast as the standard white friable wheels.
 
What are the main pros and cons of each grind. After reading here and watching some youtube, I have seen several different grinds. Ellsworth grind, fingernail grind, normal, steep angle, swept back wings, convex sides, ect.

If I just want to do basic bowls and plates what do I need to focus on? What concerns should I have with these grinds. I know how the googler works, but sometimes it can lead a newby further astray than they already are.

Thanks :)
 
Andrew-

It gets a bit worse. There are three common flute shapes on bowl gouges. V, U and parabolic. Each has advocates and are a bit different in how they cut. You will find reference to Super Flute, a parabolic flute also.

A lot of the choices have to do with style and who you learned from. If you take classes with Jimmie Clewes, you will be influenced by what you learn there.

Much has to do with your sharpening system. If you want the David Ellsworth grind, you will be using David's sharpening system.

My take -- until you know just what your style will be, get a sharpening system and use it. Just know that you cannot do all possible grinds with that system.

Free hand is the lowest first cost and will take the longest to learn. Wolverines is a very common popular system that is easy to start with. There are lots of others that are good such as Tormek, Sorvby.....
 
ellsworth and "swept back wings" are basically the same thing - a fingernail grind. Ellsworth grinds longer wings on his gouges. These grinds are very versatile as they are capable of making many different types of cuts. A tool with this grind is easy to learn on, yet still perfectly suitable for use by an experienced turner. Many professional turners have slightly different variations of a "swept-back" grind that they prefer.

a "normal" gouge, I would interpret that to be a "traditional" grind - where the wings are kept very short and the gouge is basically ground very flat on the front edge. These gouges usually have more specific uses (inside bottom of bowl, AKA "bottom feeder"), but are still versatile enough that they can make other types of cuts. Some turners prefer this type of grind for inside the bowl.

a gouge with a steep angle is used on the interior of deeper or larger bowls, or on bowls where the rim closes back in towards the center of the bowl. when using a regular gouge - eventually the turner will arrive at a point where the tool shaft makes contact with the bowl's rim. This is where you would switch to a steeper angled gouge to finish the cut without hitting the rim.

I would recommend that you find a club in your area and see if they have a mentor that can guide you. We can google and type about it all day long, but an hour or two of hand-on training with a mentor will do you a TON of good at this point.

and this article from the AAW journal may be of assistance: http://c.ymcdn.com/sites/www.woodturner.org/resource/resmgr/fundamentals/guidetogouges.pdf
 
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3/8"

I will agree with the 3/8" Crown gouge. Although there are numerous selections out there, it is a fantastic tool for the money & you will like the longer handle....I think the folks from Crafts Supply may even sharpen it for
you!
 
Great post & explanation, Shawn - I was wondering the same things myself. I think it's time for me to start attending some of the local AAW gatherings.
 
edohmann said:
Great post & explanation, Shawn - I was wondering the same things myself. I think it's time for me to start attending some of the local AAW gatherings.
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I happen to know a guy. :tongue:

next Gulf Coast Wood Turners meeting is on 1/23/16

subject of the meeting will be stabilizing - presented by our very own MesquiteMan.
 
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