My last ? for today- about PR bottlestoppers

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angboy

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Since none of my other projects are working out, I decided to try out a few bottle stoppers. I haven't had any problem when I did a wood one, I drilled the right size hole and was able to easily twist the chuck into the hole. But when I tried to do one made out of PR, a chunk ended up breaking off. The threads just didn't want to get started. How do people get their blanks started?
 
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It's a tool for cutting internal threads.
Here's a set from Enco. Starter, taper and bottoming.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=311-0044&PMPXNO=943187&PARTPG=INLMK32

You need a tap wrench to turn them and the right size drill bit. They need to be started STRAIT in the hole.

If you've never used one get a metal head to show you how.
 
i just drill the hole a little bit bigger for PR than i do for wood.
i have found that the wood screws on a lot easier than PR. so, i found that by drilling the PR a little bigger, it will also screw on. if the bottle stop is loose in then you glue it in.
 
I too use a 3/8" bottoming tap. Check with a local auto parts store such as Napa. The better stores will have them on the shelf as 3/8" is a common size and bottoming taps are used to clean to the bottom of holes in engine blaocks and such. Also, a bottoming tap with not leave tapered threads at the bottom of the hole so if you are using a screw in kit, you will be able to remove the blank from the kit easier if you need to.
 
Angela -- the three taps are set to cut threads in solid material. The taper tap has a long tapered section and starts easily. With a "blind hole" - one that is not drilled all the way through, it will not cut threads to the bottom of the hole or even close. A plug tap has less taper, but is harder to start threads. It leaves the last few threads uncut. The bottom tap is hard to start because it has no taper to line up the tap in the hole. It does cut all the way to the last bottom thread. Many like to start with a taper tap because the tapered section lines the tap up and get the threads started. A plug tap cuts more threads riding in the threads that the taper tap started. The Bottom tap finishs the threads all the way to the bottom. If you drill the hole just a little deeper than the threads on the bottle stopper, and you are patient, you can use a plug tap to do it all.

Normally in wood, a 5/16 hole is the correct size for a 3/8 by 16 threaded hole. A 21/64 or 11/32 hole may work better for threading polyester resin. I have one blank, but have not drilled and tapped it yet.

Do get a tap wrench to put threads into bottle blanks. It is better balanced for getting threads started. You do not need a big one for 3/8 or smaller threads (Note that the Berea bottle stoppers = the ones with the small diameter taper at the bottom -- use a smaller connecting rod - 1/4-20 if I remember correctly).
 
Angela,

Everyone is assuming you have a 3/8" thread. Some of my bottlestopper kits are NOT 3/8". Check your kit, match the size. USUALLY 3/8" is correct! If not, I have found a way, but it is complicated (NOT difficult), so I will send pics if you need them.
 
Here is a Tap/Drill bit chart I found awhile back on the net somewhere. I used it to figure out the drillbit to use on a bottle stopper for tapping the whole for the mandrel. I also have it in Excel format, so if you want it in Excel, email me and I will send it to you....

tn_US%20Tap%20and%20Drill%20bit%20Size%20Chart.jpg
 
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