My first goblet

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I can't really see anything wrong in the photos. Maybe not coming across properly in the photography.

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I have seen the same thing on some woods Jay, so will be interested in the answer. Some, mostly darker woods but not always, give a lighter colored band at high points in the turned wood ie raised rings or sharp transpositions. I'm thinking it could be something like micro-tearing of the wood but not sure.


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TattooedTurner said:
Far from perfect but I'm happy with it for being a first effort. Can anybody tell me what causes those light bands on the high point of the beads & cup? I'm thinking that a skew might given a better cut than a spindle gouge and prevented it.


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Wow, that is beautiful. I'm still pretty new to turning, but have always wanted to do a goblet. Thinking of starting out with a shot glass.

What's the best way to make a wooden vessel usable for drinking?

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Thanks for the replies. I don't think the pics accurately show what I'm talking about.

MRDucks2 said:
I have seen the same thing on some woods Jay, so will be interested in the answer. Some, mostly darker woods but not always, give a lighter colored band at high points in the turned wood ie raised rings or sharp transpositions. I'm thinking it could be something like micro-tearing of the wood but not sure.
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Exactly what I was thinking, it's at the high point of the arc right where it changes directions from going up, across the grain, then down, and just the opposite at the low point of the cove. I'm thinking damage to the wood at the transition of the curve is the cause which is why I was thought a skew might prevent it.

Dr_N said:
Wow, that is beautiful. I'm still pretty new to turning, but have always wanted to do a goblet. Thinking of starting out with a shot glass.

What's the best way to make a wooden vessel usable for drinking?
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Thank you. I've seen videos and read where both a CA finish or coating the inside with epoxy that has been thinned with acetone will make a vessel suitable for drinking after it's cured. I stress that I haven't verified this, but the one who recommended CA is a very well known female woodturner. I'm sure there are members here that would know for sure.
 
On my screen, it looks wonderful!

As to your question, I don't see it, but I have had difficulty with Walnut with finishing/sealing endgrain. And the comment above to early growth/late growth is also to be considered. Fine points, but "buggers" to a great finish.

However, the profile and overall appearance is great!

Well done, thanks for sharing.
 
I've turned a lot of walnut and what you are seeing in the "color bands" are the growth rings (early/latewood). This goblet looks to be cut with the end grain on top and bottom so the growth rings show up along the length not across. Sapwood (white color) on Walnut will only show up on edges or ends of a turned piece not thru-out. Nice look but nothing unusual.
 
I recently got a tip from an experienced wood craftsman on how to deal with exposed end-grain, which you often encounter at the area where your turning direction changes.

His advice is as follows:

1. Turn and sand your piece to "perfection" before applying any finish.
2. Lightly moisten the wood with water and then let it dry thoroughly.
3. "Sand" the areas of exposed end-grain with 0000 steel wood.
4. Go over your whole piece with a tack cloth. . Removing remnants of steel wool is extremely important.
5. Apply your finish.

I haven't had time to try this, and would be interested to hear if anybody else does.

The reasoning is, according to that person, that the first application of any finish will tend to raise the fibers at the exposed end-grain. . So you deliberately do that by the water moistening. . Subsequent steel-wooling removes the ends of the raised fibres, never to be a problem again when finishing !
 
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magpens said:
I recently got a tip from an experienced wood craftsman on how to deal with exposed end-grain, which you often encounter at the area where your turning direction changes.

His advice is as follows:

1. Turn and sand your piece to "perfection" before applying any finish.
2. Lightly moisten the wood with water and then let it dry thoroughly.
3. "Sand" the areas of exposed end-grain with 0000 steel wood.
4. Go over your whole piece with a tack cloth. . Removing remnants of steel wool is extremely important.
5. Apply your finish.

I haven't had time to try this, and would be interested to hear if anybody else does.

The reasoning is, according to that person, that the first application of any finish will tend to raise the fibers at the exposed end-grain. . So you deliberately do that by the water moistening. . Subsequent steel-wooling removes the ends of the raised fibres, never to be a problem again when finishing !
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Good points! After my initial sanding and moisten to raise the grain. I will resand with some worn 400G paper, then 600G.
Also, you can apply a sanding sealer, let dry and resand.....then apply finish.

Your goblet looks great for your first! Next time, go for a narrower stem.
 
Thanks for the kind comments and replies.

magpens said:
I recently got a tip from an experienced wood craftsman on how to deal with exposed end-grain, which you often encounter at the area where your turning direction changes.

His advice is as follows:

1. Turn and sand your piece to "perfection" before applying any finish.
2. Lightly moisten the wood with water and then let it dry thoroughly.
3. "Sand" the areas of exposed end-grain with 0000 steel wood.
4. Go over your whole piece with a tack cloth. . Removing remnants of steel wool is extremely important.
5. Apply your finish.

I haven't had time to try this, and would be interested to hear if anybody else does.

The reasoning is, according to that person, that the first application of any finish will tend to raise the fibers at the exposed end-grain. . So you deliberately do that by the water moistening. . Subsequent steel-wooling removes the ends of the raised fibres, never to be a problem again when finishing !
Click to expand...

Thank you! I was actually going to try this since I always raised the grain on my drum shells but thought it would make it worse. I"ll give it a go next time I use walnut.
 
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