More questions from the new person

[Larry]

Hey everyone,
As I said about a week ago I'm waiting for supplies to start the art of pen turning. reading the Post her I have a couple questions?

1. Do you use the same size mandrel bushings on all types Pens or do you need different sizes for each?

2. Everything mentions 7mm 8mm 10mm bits. Can the blanks be drilled with standard bits and tubes fit properly?

 

[Dario]

Different kits use different bushings and most of the time differnt drill bits too. Some kits use up to 3 bits.

You will most likely need 2 mandrels too.

If you can...buy a set of drill bits not in increments of 64th of an inch. It will still not be enought [] since there are metric and some that uses more than 1/2" but you'll cover the majority already.

Scary isn't it?

For starters though I used 7mm drill bit only and the corresponding mandrel. I also just used 2 bushings but now I don't use them anymore. Maybe I will again but not in the near future.

Good luck!!!

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by Larry
<br />Hey everyone,
As I said about a week ago I'm waiting for supplies to start the art of pen turning. reading the Post her I have a couple questions?

1. Do you use the same size mandrel bushings on all types Pens or do you need different sizes for each?

2. Everything mentions 7mm 8mm 10mm bits. Can the blanks be drilled with standard bits and tubes fit properly?

The difference in kits, drill bit sizes, mandrel sizes, name differences for same kits, etc. is a source of never-ending confusion. If trying to figure it all out doesn't make you crazy, pen turning can be fun and enjoyable. My choice is to stay with 7 mm styles only. If sales develop and dictate I need a wider variety I will expand. But, for now, I am keeping to the KISS principal of doing things.

 

[Larry]

Everyone thanks again for the information. I guess as Frank describes this can be very confusing for a new person. I'm still not sure I understand the 7mm vrs 8mm, or 10mm. Can you make any style pen with a 7mm tube or do you have to step up to say 10mm for a cigar pen? I think what I understand is the bigger the pen the bigger the tube which means different mandrels, bushings, trimmers and the works. is this correct or am I still in the dumb zone?

Larry

 

[Dario]

I am not sure but read here that most Berea kits that Woodcraft use 7mm mandrel. They use different drill bits but the bushings compensate for it. Check that out.

As I said...I stayed with 7mm and primarily turned slimline and Euro for a year before I started playing with other kits. For that year I only have 1 mandrel, 1 drill bit, and 2 set of bushings. Now, I have 3 mandrels and atleast 8 sets of bushings and a set of bits plus many loose ones too...some I haven't used yet.

Go with whatever feels good...you will know when it is time to move on and use other kits.

I will salute you for having great self control (like Frank) if you can stay with just 7mm for too long after seeing the pens of the guys here though []

 

[wayneis]

You are getting close Larry. You will need different bushings and bits in most cases and trimmers come with a few sizes but there are only two sizes of mandrels to worry about. Once you order and make one you'll get the hang of it.

Wayne

 

[wdcav1952]

Larry,

Allow me to add my two cents worth.

I would buy two mandrels, an A and a B. These will accomodate all kits and bushings you may choose to buy in the future. My personal preference is for Berea mandrels, other members will have other preferences.

Each kit will come with tubes and the other components needed for the pen.

Each different kit will require different bushings. Since the final pens are different shapes, they obviously require different bushings to guide you to the final shape.

As you branch out, you will find that different kits require different drill sizes. For example, the El Grande kit requires two different drill sizes as do other kits.

Not to push one supplier, but CSUSA offers a starter kit for some of their pens, which usually includes 2 kits, bushings and drills.

With respect to barrel trimmers, look for one with a 3/4 inch cutter head. This will allow you to use the same cutter head on larger pen kits. Some suppliers offer a barrel trimmer kit with several shafts that allow you to change shafts for different kits. (Not sure, think Penn State Industries offers this, talk to the folks at Woodturningz for a better price)

Above all remember that for most of us this is a relaxing hobby. In general hobbies pay for themselves in enjoyment, not in dollars. A few people make a profit, dollar-wise, I sell some which is nice, but my profit is in the turning and seeing beauty appear on the lathe.

More than two cents worth I guess, at least in length. Enjoy, ask questions, and feel free to contact me privately if I can help in any way.

 

[CPDesigns]

Larry,

Welcome to the start of a serious addiction! [] The venerable Mr. Cavanaugh gave you some excellent advice (I wish I'd had somebody to tell me what the h*** I was getting into when I started...) and I'd like to piggyback on it, if I may. I highly reccommend the starter kits from CSUSA (woodturnerscatalog.com), they've served me well. I also have two tool reccomendations:

1) Buy the best tools you can get your hands on. Turning chisels and gouges get a lot of use and they dull fast. Cheaper tools dull faster and won't sharpen as well. The more time you spend fighting crappy tools, the less time you're spending ENJOYING the process. For 85-90% of my pens I use a 3/4" roughing gouge and a 3/4" skew, both Robert Sorby. That's it. I have a six piece set of generic HSS tools and I use the parting tool and maybe the small spindle gouge, but not much. I sharpen at the grinder about every 8-10 pens (unless I'm turning something REALLY hard) and I hone the skew with a diamond hone before my final cuts each time. The difference between the generic set and the Sorby tools is night and day. When I started all I had were the generic tools and I was frustrated by catches, vibrations, and other myriad problems that all stemmed from using small, inefficient, dull tools (along with a healthy dose of lousy technique). The mini and micro sets really aren't necessary for turning a pen. In fact, it's a whole lot easier to use a large skew than a itty bitty one (bigger sweet spot, more tool control).

2) Buy a good set of measuring tools. I use my micrometer, dividers, and vernier calipers on just about every pen. Bushings wear down and even new ones aren't always spot on in terms of tolerances. I measure almost constantly; it's really the only way to get a seamless fit. I can tell my early works and my "hurry-ups" by the fit. They're just not as clean as the ones that I took the time to measure.

3) Spend some quality time hanging around this place and/or your local wood turning club. I thought I knew some stuff about pen turning until I ran into some of the serious pros on this site. One good critique of my work has already sparked a renewed dedication to improving the quality, consistancy, and creativity in my work. If you're willing to take a bit of an ego hit, you can get an amazing education; I know I did[]

Happy turning!