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grub32

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2008
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342
Location
Ohio, USA.
I have a question about using MicroMesh. When you all are micromeshing wood prior to applying a CA Finish, what do you lubricate it with? Water? Or something else? How about after you have CA Finish? I am worried about creating too much heat and either melting the micromesh or ruining the finish.

Thanks,

Grub32
 
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I don't think MM is necessary on wood. Just sand to 400 grit and apply CA finish and use the MM(wet)on the CA.
 
Grub, for lack of a better name, wherever you use micromesh, use a light touch. It can be used on wood with good results. I clean mine regularly with a blast of compressed air. Also, while sanding to 400 yields a decent result, it is far better to sand with higher grits, 1000 at least. You will hear the fiction that a finish will not bond to a highly polished wood; it is just that, fiction. If you wish to use your thin CA as a sealer, apply it at whatever grit level you wish, and continue sanding to achieve as smooth a surface as possible prior to applying a finish. Remember, the finish is only as good as the surface of the wood underneath it.
 
For me: No lubrication when use on wood. I use wet sand with water and micromesh on acrylics. The applied finish (whatever your use) will only be as good as the wood's finish underneath. I do use micromesh on the wood in my sanding routine. But watch the pressure, heat will melt micromesh, so I'm told. :D:D:D
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by grub32

I have a question about using MicroMesh. When you all are micromeshing wood prior to applying a CA Finish, what do you lubricate it with?
Click to expand...
 
What they said is dead on, and also no water for MM on antlers-just a light touch. I throw my MM in the Washing Machine with clothes every month or two and let air dry.
 
Agree with above.. I don't MM on wood either, but sand through 500 grit.. mostly because I have the paper through that grit, then use the plastic backed stuff I get at Michaels.. then seal and finish. Recommendation is to NOT put water on wood blanks.. if I need to clean a blank, I use a soft cloth or paper towel dampened in acetone.. (I don't have a compressor so only air I have is blowing on it and sometimes I get moisture in the air :D)
 
No lube, light touch and never let it stop moving. high points such as beads etc can be a real bear. and yes it is well worth going beyond 400 grit sanding on wood. polish the wood then apply the finish. I found any wax on the wood will simply absorb into the wood with time. I have watched several of my pens turn dull in a couple of days before.
 
I always sand using MM to 12,000 before applying a finish. Although it might be overkill on certain woods, on others, such as desert ironwood, it does bring a shine that will show through your polish and that you couldn't get otherwise. A lot of species start to shimmer when highly polished with MM (dry). It's something I find really worth the extra 3 minutes compared to a 400-600 grit regimen.
 
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