MM care....

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woodscavenger

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I just got my MM kit. I have used it and loved it but I seem to have it cloged up pretty good in the lower grits. I stuck them in a sock and washed them and it helped but some spots still seem clogged. I used them on straight wood, some CA that sucked and needed to be redone, and after some wet sanding with 800 grit and BLO. Any ideas?
 
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I am also curious about woodscavengers question.
Just last week I soaked two sets of MM in a sink full of soapy water for a couple hours along with my complete set of Abralon pads. Then I rinsed them thorouly and laid them out on paper towel to dry. They came nice and clean except for all the red stained colored areas like from bloodwood and some green stains that may have been from Dymondwood etc.
Is it really practical to be cleaning MM like this. Does it loose any of it's grit qualities and possibly loose more of it with further washings ? How many washings are considered the end of the usefull life of it. It is so hard to tell just by feel because the grits are so fine.
W.Y.
 
Well, this just might get to be a hot topic, cause I have the same dang problem! I've tried hand washing them, washing machine washing them, and it just does'nt get the course pads clean to my satisfaction. I'm tempted to try a dip in paint thinner - maybe that will do the trick!
 
I'm glad others are having similar problems. I purchased my first set last week, and only turned five and a half pens this weekend, and noticed how quickly they were already starting to block up.

Anyone know who manufactures MicroMesh?
 
I'm going to the source. I just sent an e-mail to Micro-Surface (company I bought my kit from). I explained the problem, and have asked for their suggestions. Hopefully, I'll hear back tomorrow.
 
I think they're a reputable company. They have alot of product on their site, and they shipped same day to me. I imagine I'll hear something from them. I was hesitant to bring up this subject on forum - I thought I was the only one who musta did something wrong and ruined the pads! I'm so glad I'm not!
 
One trick I use is to soak them, than while they are still soaking, take a toobrush and scrub the grits. Cleans them right up and doesnt damage the MM. I use a stiff bristled toothbrush. Have had excellent results.
 
Contrary to what others do, I use mostly the finer MM when needed. I use sandpaper up to 2500. Sandpaper is disposable and since I cut it in 5/8" strips, I get a lot of pieces from one sheet.

Sanding heat burns the MM. Finishes that have not completely cured can clog it. This cannot be removed by simple washing.
 
I'm glad now I didn't make the investment. So-called 'non clogging' sanding materials will clog on the right (wrong [?] ) woods. I use Klingspore's non-clogging gold sandpaper and generally like it. But it will clog with certain woods, like cocobolo and African blackwood. And will also clog the non-woven stuff that looks like Scotchbrite pads. For those who didn't ask, my usual sanding technique is Klingspore gold 200, then 400 then white non-woven pad that is anywhere from 800 to 1200 depending on whose advertising you are reading. Works for me.
 
Fred , I'm with you , I bought some MM and tried it out but found that it did melt on me so I've changed my sanding to go to 3000 grit and on very hard woods (Dymondwood eg.) I finish off with Crocus Cloth .
The paper I use has a blue backing and I've not had the problem of staining from it at all .
 
I'm still using MM that I've had for 4 and 5 years with no problem. I use denim on a day to day for cleaning and then when it really needs it I have a net bag that I through a bunch in and toss it in the wash machine. DO NOT put it in the dryer though. As far as melting it, if you just keep the speed down and keep the MM moving it will not melt. I started using MM long before I started to make pens and I have never found anything that compares with it. As far as the stain marks go, I wouldn't worry about a red or green mark on it after its washed it is not going to transfer to another piece of wood.

Wayne
 
They'll take my micromesh away when they pry it from my cold, dead fingers. [:D] I'm a micromesh advocate but have experienced a few things that need to be avoided or overcome.

1) The blank needs to be well-sanded to about 320 before starting with MM1500. Shotcuts early in sanding never pay off.

2) Feel the blank before putting MM to it. If the blank feels hot from agressive sanding, let it cool. The adhesive in MM can melt and at a lower temperature that you would think.

3) Do not sand woods and poly with the same piece of MM. There will be residue that will cross contaminate the grit and may cause problems.

4) Make sure any finish on the pen is cured, not just dry to the touch.

5) Use a difference piece of MM on woods that "dye" like padauk.

6) Don't expect MM to last forever. It can be cleaned but do not expect it to be revitalized and "like new".

I hope this helps some of you out there! [8D]
 
Lou gave me a good idea. - For the reasonably small price of the MM kits from Micro-Surfaces, I think I might just invest in a couple. One for dark woods, one for light woods, and one for acrylics. Some might think that is a bit overboard, but I personally think it might be a good investment. I'll just use this first set as my "learning experience". After reading some of these replies, I think the problem with my set is due to some sanding sealer that probably was'nt cured before hitting the blanks with the MM.
 
Woodscavenger,

It is myth that automotive sand paper will stain/darken the light colored woods. If it did, auto painters would scream. I start with 220 then 400 then 600 then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 all in the wet/dry automotive sand papers. After that I go with 6000 then 8000 then 12000 in MM.

I'll tell you where the staining comes from. When you sand the blank and then go over the bushings and then come over the wood the metal from the bushings gets into the wood. DAMHIKT [;)] When I touch the bushings then I lift off the paper and use a different section of paper to sand.

Maybe cheap paper will stain but I haven't had any problems with 3m brand. I also sand at 1800 rpm. Hope this helps.
 
I am very new at all of this but a tip I had from a good guy at the local Rockler was that to avoid burning the MM use a regular piece of sponge as a backup. He says it acts as a heat sink. It seems to work but like I say I am still a neophyte.[8D]
 
I follow the technique Wayne has laid out. Just brushing it over a piece of denim or my pants leg usually unloads it easily. Once in awhile I throw it in the washer. I've been using the same pieces for several months now.
 
Originally posted by KKingery
<br />Lou gave me a good idea. - For the reasonably small price of the MM kits from Micro-Surfaces, I think I might just invest in a couple. One for dark woods, one for light woods, and one for acrylics. Some might think that is a bit overboard, but I personally think it might be a good investment. I'll just use this first set as my "learning experience". After reading some of these replies, I think the problem with my set is due to some sanding sealer that probably was'nt cured before hitting the blanks with the MM.
Click to expand...

A couple things that may help. One I believe that the Violin Company has the best prices on MM, I'm sure that someone here has the address handy and will post it. Next as Lou said, any finish needs to cure fully before sanding and polishing. Sanding sealer works best if you let it cure for at least six to eight hours. I've also heard that you can also use a hair dryer to speed the drying process but I have not tried it myself, yet.

If you take a few precausions, Micro Mesh will last you at least a year or more, if you don't then you'll be lucky to get more than one use out of it.

Wayne
 
As was mentioned in a previous thread, here is the link for international violin company. You can get MM by the sheet.
http://www.internationalviolin.com/searchpage.cfm?category=SHEETS&expanded=13%2C31%2C37%2C4%2C75&stype=cat
 
Call to order and they will send it USPS and save you a few bucks on shipping.
Originally posted by opfoto
<br />As was mentioned in a previous thread, here is the link for international violin company. You can get MM by the sheet.
http://www.internationalviolin.com/searchpage.cfm?category=SHEETS&expanded=13%2C31%2C37%2C4%2C75&stype=cat
Click to expand...
 
I am at that point that I need to clean my MM. Thanks for the advice. BTW, W.Y. what do you think of the Abralon pads? Are those the sanding pads that PSI is selling that are a mesh? Kirk[8D]
 
Kirk, I have the Abralon pads. They sand well, and a quick pat is all it takes to clean them out. Plus they are fairly flexible, which makes them great for some of the smaler shapes. I have some very inexpensive sanding blocks from HF that I use to rough-sand, follow this up with the Abralon, then follow up with MicroMesh.

--- EDIT ----
Sorry, I feel dumb...I use AbraNET, not Abaralon.
 
Kirk;
I am not sure which ones PSI is selling but perhaps the same thing. Here is the scoop on them and where I get them in Canada although they are sold in many locations in USA as well.
http://www.woodessence.com/abrasivesdefault.html
I think they are just GrrrEEEAAAAT. I use samdpaper and then every stage of Abralon and then finish with MM up to 12000.
Keep in mind now that I am referring to larger things such as bowls etc. I dont think they are really necessary for small things like pens but they do make a nice transition from sandpaper to MM and they wash out so nicely to make them re-usable. I just ordered the introductory pack and even the buffing pad in the kit that is used on the ROS makes a great poor mans polishing system with a little of Lou's super duper TSW wax finish.
I will definitely order more replacement abraisive and buffing pads whenever these start wearing out.
W.Y.
 
I got 2 sets from Woodturningz during the birthday bash sale for $10 a set. I cut a 1/2 in. strip off the short end of each grit to use on pens and like as was said earlier i just wipe it either on my pants leg or shirt to clean off once in a while. Boy that stuff makes a real mess if you press to hard and melt it on ( found out the hard way) i go thru 2500 automotive and then use the MM seems to work pretty good.
 
The sets from the International Violin Company are 6"x12".
I figured out the comparative cost but forgot what is was.
From what I have read about MM clogging I am guessing that it is being used at a fairly high rate of speed.
Some wherre I read turn fast sand slow.
I am still using the MM I bought last june.
I try to keep sets togeher and because I number them 1-9 at different times I can tell which ones go with which sets.
I wear jeans while turning and just wipe them across my jeans thigh prior to using each different grit.
I have never had a problem with cross contamination nor do I wait for CA to "cure"(Your mileage may vary.)
I do however start sanding after "Skewing" with 320 grit.
(That skew saves a LOT of sanding)
I use 320 and 400 yellow gold from Klingspors I buy in the bargain boxes.
I will then start MM with #1 the coarsest grit.
This may be duplication of grits but it works.
If I have used MM to wet sand with Blo I keep that set different.
I do use different sets for antler anbd brass.
I guess I do have concerns with cross contamination in that respect.
MM will melt easily on edges or if the speed is too fast.
As for sanding down a screwed up CA finish this is where a good sharp skew will work a lot better than any sandpaper.
Certainly 400 MM grit wound not be my choice to sand down a finish.
there's no cutting corners in that respect.
Mine get washed when I think they need it.Depending on what they are used on maybe every 15-20 pens.
I put them in a mesh bag and throw them in the wash.
I tried putting them in the pockets but they get lost.
I thinking of using an onion bag and a plastic ZIP tie.
If you wrap the zip tie around the bag( a couple of wraps before "Cinching" it)you can reuse them 2 or 3 times.
I have also found that if they get "stained" like when I do colored CC pens, there is no transfer after washing.
Again your mileage may vary.
This is my $.02 on the matte but I bon't want to see a great product get a bad rap caused by possible mis use.
THat stuff is great and will save a lot of mone in the long run.
 
Originally posted by woodscavenger
<br />Thanks "n/a" for the great advice. Now we will be able to add more good quote to the guy I have seen quoted my whole life....."Author unknown"
Click to expand...
That N/A guy sure gets around[:D]
 
Thanks to all for your tips on using MM. I purchased a set and have done - IMHO - a wonderful job at finding everything that you can do wrong. I've melted the stuff all over my pen - found that a good, fine steel wool does a great job of removing it without messing up the finish.

Also found that using it on a lacquer finish - you MUST allow the finish to cure - even if the can says dry in 30 minutes - it takes at least 24 to 36 hours before you can really use MM on it.

So what have I learned...

- Don't press hard - MM doesn't like heat of ahy kind.
- If you do melt it on - keep some fine steel wool handy
- Allow the finish to cure - not just dry - for best results.
- Clean often - at least the areas of abrasive that are left after burning it all on the wood :o)

Alan
 
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