Micro ridges after finishing

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

ebrown7780

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
12
Location
Charleston SC
After turning a pen I sand to a 400 grit Abranet. I cross sand and then apply Myland’s sanding sealer. I then use a clean cotton t-shirt to apply Myland’s friction polish. Once the pen gets hot and I get the high sheen I like there are oftentimes small micro ridges on the pen. These are not present after turning just after finishing. I have tried blue paper towel. The ridges are more obvious on darker woods. I do not have a variable speed lathe and finishing is done at the same RPM’s as turning. These ridges really bug me. Any ideas or different techniques that I should try?


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

bsshog40

Active Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Messages
644
Location
Midland, Tx
I've never used the friction polish but I would think that if you are applying any finish at high speeds, it's not letting the finish settle. Its like spilling water on the counter and blowing on it. It makes waves.
 

1080Wayne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
2,593
Location
Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
A high gloss finish can magnify tool or sanding marks . Check your ready to finish pieces under a low angle of incidence light source , preferably daylight , not one directly over the piece .
 

Lucky2

Active Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
788
Location
New Brunswick/ Canada
Why do you stop at 400 grit, I never stop sanding until I get up to at least 6000 micro mesh. And then, I only stop if I'm satisfied with how the finish looks. If there is any signs of micro scratches at 6000, I sand on up higher until there is none.

Len
 

leehljp

Member Liaison
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
6,613
Location
Tunica, MS,
A few others have mentioned this in the past year or so.

Ridges - are they being formed AFTER sanding? Or do you not use a skew/scraper to smooth out the CA/finish after applying it?

I ALWAYS use my scraper to smooth out ridges, waves, imperfections BEFORE sanding, or in some cases polishing. When using my scraper, I don't always need to sand, so I go into the polishing mode.

There are applicators that will smooth out the CA finish much better than paper towel and in general prevent most ridges from occurring.
 
Last edited:

MDWine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
2,526
Location
Manassas Park, Virginia, USA.
I am certainly no authority, but after a sanding sealer, I hit it again with the last grit I used... repeat sealer and sand again (both ways)... I go to 800 on a wood pen

You're gonna get 3000 other replies, but eventually you need to experiment and find what works for you!
 

Woodchipper

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
2,395
Location
Cleveland, TN
FWIW, I found that I was taking too long to apply CA to the wood blank. This resulted in the CA setting up while applying and looking like my dogs chewed on it. I apply thin Ca with a paper towel while turning the lathe by hand- left hand turns and the right hand applies the CA. I marked the hex nut on the mandrel with a Sharpie and turn the lathe twice and no more. CA looks 1,000% better now. BTW, using cloth with a turning machine of any kind is dangerous.
 

JimB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
4,491
Location
West Henrietta, NY, USA.
Many are responding to CA finish even though the OP is using a friction finish.

Sand to a higher grit. Also, friction finishes should be applied at a high speed. You can wipe it on with the lathe off then at the highest speed your lathe has rub it in using paper towel folded over several times. You should feel the heat through the paper towel. Use several light coats not a single heavy application.
 

Woodchipper

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
2,395
Location
Cleveland, TN
JimB, my CA finish has improved- no way to go but up. Never tried friction polish. Thanks for your post. I see Myland's mentioned. What else is recommended? Woodcraft gets a lot of my money.
 
Last edited:

JimB

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
4,491
Location
West Henrietta, NY, USA.
JimB, my CA finish has improved- no way to go but up. Never tried friction polish. Thanks for your post. I see Myland's mentioned. What else is recommended? Woodcraft gets a lot of my money.
Even though I responded to the OP's question I don’t use friction polish on pens as it doesn’t hold up to the constant handling of the pen. I do either a CA finish, BLO/CA or Wipe on Poly.

I do use friction polish on some items that aren’t handled very much.
 

leehljp

Member Liaison
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
6,613
Location
Tunica, MS,
Many are responding to CA finish even though the OP is using a friction finish.

Sand to a higher grit. Also, friction finishes should be applied at a high speed. You can wipe it on with the lathe off then at the highest speed your lathe has rub it in using paper towel folded over several times. You should feel the heat through the paper towel. Use several light coats not a single heavy application.
Thanks for pointing this out. I missed it - I guess because sanding sealer and polish don't form ridges, that comes from uneven turning, CA or aggressive sandpaper or something. I can't seem to get my mind around ridges with polish or sanding sealer. Those are thin and applied with paper towel, even thinner.
 

TonyL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
6,208
Location
Alpharetta, GA 30004
While you are receiving excellent advice here, I battled with radial scratches when I started 4 years ago. If you search on radial scratches you will find a plethora of posts and some excellent tips - some of which you are reading here.
 

Mr Vic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
1,472
Location
Falcon, CO
Look at your ridges. Do they match up with the grain pattern. Any liquid applied to unsealed wood will cause the softer grain to swell more then the harder. Apply the first coat with the lathe off and let it soak in good before turning the late on to apply friction to cure. Check for and ridges and sand as necessary. You may have to repeat several times until you have the wood fully sealed. At that time you can apply to the gloss level desired.
 

ebrown7780

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
12
Location
Charleston SC
I have looked closer at my process. I feel the ridges are coming from the t-shirt material fiber and the heat that is generated from the speed of the lathe. There is no problem with my turning or sanding. The pen is very smooth prior to finishing. I have started cross polishing just like cross sanding and the ridges are virtually gone.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Top Bottom