Matching pen for pentel pencil

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harik.raif

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Hi, pretty new to writing utensil turning. I was going to turn a pen and pencil set and I started with a pentel pencil. Now I feel like my pen mechanisms are comparitively fat. I was wondering if people use the same system for pens as is used for pentel pencils and if so what do they like? It would be great if it used the same step drillbit and mandrel.
Thanks,
Raif
 
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PatrickR

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Hi, pretty new to writing utensil turning. I was going to turn a pen and pencil set and I started with a pentel pencil. Now I feel like my pen mechanisms are comparitively fat. I was wondering if people use the same system for pens as is used for pentel pencils and if so what do they like? It would be great if it used the same step drillbit and mandrel.
Thanks,
Raif
Look into Bic Stick pens. People make them in a similar way to a Pentel. You could add a Pentel button for looks.
 

Mortalis

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Not sure I understand what you are trying to do. Are you trying to use the mechanism that operates a Pentel pencil and pen in a kitless pen and pencil?
If your new to turning and assembling pen and pencil kits I would recommend purchasing matching kits that will come with all the mechanisms that will fit the kit.
 

harik.raif

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Hi, I'm newish to pens but not to turning. And certainly not to overreaching.
I have a pentel step drill bit and mandrel. And I've turned a long blank to house the guts. Now I'm wondering if people do the same thing with pens. A
 

harik.raif

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Man this keeps happening to me. Anyway, so if people turn long blanks without tubes and put the mechanism from some store bought pen inside, then what pens do they recommend.
Thanks
 

harik.raif

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Ah, upon further research I see the term I'm looking for is "kitless" so I'm looking for help/recommendations on "kitless" slim click pens.
Thanks
 

its_virgil

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I've not seen anyone do what you are asking...take a store bought ballpoint and use the parts and make a new outside.

I have made several twist ballpoint (kits) and clicks into one piece pens...one barrel instead of two. That may be an option.

There are a few ballpoint (kits) that are designed to be one longer barrel...the CSUSA long clicker for example.
The Schmidt SKM-88 click mechanism is available for making a true kitless clicker.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 

duncsuss

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Ah, upon further research I see the term I'm looking for is "kitless" so I'm looking for help/recommendations on "kitless" slim click pens.
Thanks

There are a number of clicker mechanisms available for making a pen without using a kit, which I think is what you are getting at.

Richard Greenwald sells two different size Schmidt click mechanisms, SKM-88 is the size that most people are familiar with because a couple of Penn State Industry kits now use them. There's a smaller one called SKM-192 (but I don't think he uses that name on his site). He also sells a variety of vintage mechanisms.

Milan's Pen Parts is another source I've used for mechanisms - he also stocks SKM-88 and SKM-192.

Both those parts require a really funky size tap, you're best getting it at the same time as the mechanisms (if they have them in stock).

Here's a click-pen I made using the SKM-88 and a rod of vintage celluloid, with a purchased clip.
Celluloid - click ballpoint -2.jpg
 

harik.raif

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ah, I see, you can get the clicker, skm-88 for instance, but because that screws in you need to tap your blank. Then it's just a matter of getting the length correct for your ink ... thing and some kind of tip situation which will allow for the spring. So couple more questions :)
1) can you do this with a wood blank? Say zebra wood? By this I mean tap it, and expect it to hold.
2) I'm wondering how you did the tip there. Is that a separate piece? What does one need to hold the spring?
3) could I pretty much find whatever tip I like, and a SKM-88, drill a long blank and be ready to go?
4) what are the diameters of a typical ink cartridge? what is the diameter of the SKM-88? or can I find those specs on a vendors site?
Thanks for the help.
 

duncsuss

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ah, I see, you can get the clicker, skm-88 for instance, but because that screws in you need to tap your blank. Then it's just a matter of getting the length correct for your ink ... thing and some kind of tip situation which will allow for the spring.
Pretty much; I made my first one out of clear acrylic so I could see what I was doing and take all the measurements I needed afterwards.
So couple more questions :)
1) can you do this with a wood blank? Say zebra wood? By this I mean tap it, and expect it to hold.
I have never had success tapping threads into wood. Others might be able to do it, but I can't.
2) I'm wondering how you did the tip there. Is that a separate piece? What does one need to hold the spring?
Yes, a separate piece that screws in which I threaded. I don't remember if I used the same threads as the SKM-88 uses, but I do like using the fewest possible different sized threads.
3) could I pretty much find whatever tip I like, and a SKM-88, drill a long blank and be ready to go?
Yes; if you use a pre-made nib piece, you might have to glue it into the barrel, but I don't see anything wrong with that.
4) what are the diameters of a typical ink cartridge? what is the diameter of the SKM-88? or can I find those specs on a vendors site?
Thanks for the help.
I use Parker ballpoint refills (or the Schmidt equivalent), I'm sure the diameters are published somewhere but I never remember and use calipers to measure each time. Same with the SKM-88 - in my case, the pen clips I had in stock (before I bought the clicker mechanisms) just happened to be "about right" so I didn't worry about the exact size.
 

harik.raif

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Great! Thanks!
I'm much more of a wood man then acrylic. I wonder how I could do it with wood. I guess I'd have to buy a kit that has the threaded push in insert. But using tubes kind of takes the fun out of going custom. That and I don't really like any of the kits. They are too thick.
You say you haven't had much luck tapping wood. Is it too brittle? Maybe if I tap it while the blank is unturned. Maybe reenforce it from the inside with some ca. What do you think?
Thanks
R
 

duncsuss

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What I have found is the threads just crumble away: if the grain is running the length of the pen barrel (which it pretty much has to do, or the barrel is going to snap) the threads are very short lengths of fiber, structurally there is nothing to them.

It's possible that tapping, then drizzling CA into the hole, then tapping again ("chasing the threads", not cutting new ones) might help. Possibly a couple more times might build up enough thickness of CA to hold the threads. Or two-part epoxy.

You might be able to find threaded inserts - that you could glue into the barrel, the inside having threads. Or make your own threaded inserts that glue into the barrel.

Good luck!
 
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