Maple, African Blackwood, Black walnut & Resin Kitless

[Bryguy]

Pluggin away! Triple start cap thread.

 

[Bryguy]

Not sure why the picture came up twice

 

[magpens]

Very nice .... I like the styling and the colors !!

I can't quite make out which parts are resin ... is it the nib and threaded parts ?

Also wondering about what appear to be "scores" directly beneath the clip end ... maybe that's an engraving ?

 

[jttheclockman]

This has some unique features some I like and some not so much. Do not like the shape of the nib end. Do like the optical illusion you get and maybe just the photo of what is cut and what is not as far as wood sizes within the blank. Now I know as you turn down segments like this they take on a different look due to the diameter of the section and this points that out to a good look. Thanks for showing.

 

[mark james]

Well done Bryan! The journey continues. I love the stages you are working through. Very cool.

 

[johncrane]

Very good Bryan! would like to see it with the cap on

 

[Bryguy]

Very nice .... I like the styling and the colors !!

I can't quite make out which parts are resin ... is it the nib and threaded parts ?

Also wondering about what appear to be "scores" directly beneath the clip end ... maybe that's an engraving ?

I cut grooves in the cap to diminish the boring effect of that long stretch of resin. I use resin in all the parts that have to be threaded, the cap and body ends, the nib and the finial.

 

[Bryguy]

This has some unique features some I like and some not so much. Do not like the shape of the nib end. Do like the optical illusion you get and maybe just the photo of what is cut and what is not as far as wood sizes within the blank. Now I know as you turn down segments like this they take on a different look due to the diameter of the section and this points that out to a good look. Thanks for showing.

John, THanks for the compliments on the wood bits. I do consider the final result of the turning on the segmented piece when gluing up my blanks.
I'm not happy with the nib end either. I have been trying to come up with a standard design. The problem I have is that the pieces have such a small diameter and they need to be threaded to join them to the pen body. This is something I am still working on. I have two versions of this nib. One is just threaded on the end with a 10 x 1 thread and then I thread the body for the cap, but this means the threaded area has a very thin wall. The other version has the 10 x 1 thread on the end, just below that I thread it with the 12 x .8 mm triple start. This is very much a work in progress and I'd like to know how others approach it. I know I've thrown away a lot of resin getting to where I am!

 

[John Eldeen]

Bryan you have an interesting pen here I would like to see a couple more pictures of it. Maybe one with the cap on and then from a couple different angles. The journey you are on looks to be a fun one. Here soon I hope to be joining you on it. Kitless pens look like a challenge that I an almost ready for.

 

[leehljp]

. . . I'm not happy with the nib end either. I have been trying to come up with a standard design. The problem I have is that the pieces have such a small diameter and they need to be threaded to join them to the pen body. This is something I am still working on . . . . This is very much a work in progress and I'd like to know how others approach it. I know I've thrown away a lot of resin getting to where I am!

Bryan, This is a subject of intense interest to me. There was a single thread and couple of posts in it about 12 or 13 years ago in which "design" was touched upon for two single characteristics: angle and thickness (length) of segments. But I will add a third characteristic: radius.

1. Angles, 2. Lengths of Segments, & 3. Radius (when shaping profile): There is something about the perfect angle that is exceptional - in which as much as .5° difference makes it look very good instead of "exceptional - and the precise placement of the angle. Same for length of segments. Somewhat similar to the "golden rule" in design. There is very little difference in the "exceptional" pen vs the "very good pen" except 1/16" or 1mm, or 1/2° of an angle, the placement of the angle 1/8" forward or backwards, or protracted/shortened profile curve, - yet one just seems to Stands Out! This is not about the overall "design" as much as the minuscule differences in segment length/thickness and also minuscule difference in an angle and placement, or profile radius.

For me, I "hit" upon it on occasion like that tag line in a few members post: "Even a blind squirrel (or pig) find a nut once in a while." I do not have an artists eye and can't make (repeat) a design with perfection, but I do notice when I hit upon it by accident, AND I notice it when someone here hits it. It is like the difference between a home run and a Grand Slam Home Run, or the difference between a field goal and a 99 yard touchdown run.

I also know that the perfect angle, radius and or segment thickness changes with different pen styles.

Keep trying!

 

[jalbert]

John, THanks for the compliments on the wood bits. I do consider the final result of the turning on the segmented piece when gluing up my blanks.
I'm not happy with the nib end either. I have been trying to come up with a standard design. The problem I have is that the pieces have such a small diameter and they need to be threaded to join them to the pen body. This is something I am still working on. I have two versions of this nib. One is just threaded on the end with a 10 x 1 thread and then I thread the body for the cap, but this means the threaded area has a very thin wall. The other version has the 10 x 1 thread on the end, just below that I thread it with the 12 x .8 mm triple start. This is very much a work in progress and I'd like to know how others approach it. I know I've thrown away a lot of resin getting to where I am!

Look at Pelikan's line of rollerballs. They do the grip very well in my opinion.