Mandrel out of round

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We all agree that mandrels are not that good. You have to use them some times when you haven't any cnc bushings. How far out can they be before they cause the blank to show out of round ?


Cheers.....Al
 
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not the mandrel

I used to get frustrated with mandrels and buy news ones, then get the same results. Then turn between centers and also got out of round. Finally I realized that it had nothing to do with the tools and everything to do with me.

Wood has hard spots and soft spots. Especially if it is cross cut or end grain. What was happening is that the hard spots would resist the tools and sandpaper more than the soft spots and cause the tool to vibrate very subtly. I couldn't see it or feel it, but it was happening. The mandrel just makes it worse because it can flex and exacerbates the situation.

Now I do something that you shouldn't do on anything else on the lathe, but there isn't any danger because the diameter is so small. I wrap the course sand paper at least 180 degrees around the blank when sanding. This makes it so the sand paper cannot move back and forth because it is on both sides of the blank and has nowhere to go. You only need to do this on the upper grit like 100 or 150. You can still use the micromesh for everything else.

I haven't messed one up since I started this practice.

What first clued me in is when I had a defect and filled it with CA. The CA was so hard relative to the soft wood that I was quickly out of round.
 
Out of round

Hey John,

Some very good info I will put this in my notes to remember. Looks like no one knows the correct measurement for out of round !

Thanks Al
 
Al,

I have several bent mandrels laying around, I consider myself an experienced mandrel bender. I meaured out of round like this:
1. With the mandrel fully extended from the MT2, put it in the headstock, pressed it in firmly with the tail stock, then backed off the tail stock so it is no longer touching.
2. Positioned the end of the tool rest so it was just touching the end of the mandrel at the point where the wobbly mandrel end was at it closest point to me.
3. Hand turned the mandrel until it was at the furtherest point from the rest.
4. From the rest to the tip of the mandrel at the furtherest point it was .12 inches away. I think this should be called .06 in out of round, if it were straightened by .06 it would be the same distance from the rest for the full revolution.

This bent mandrel still works pretty good if I'm turning a short single section pen and the blank is next to the headstock. If I were turning a longer two section pen I would finish turning the section closest to the MT, rough out the other section, then turn them around on the mandrel so the roughed out section was closest to the MT. As you know, turning between centers is a lot less trouble.

Gerry
 
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The problem you each of you describe with mandrel is that the mandrel can be just as much User caused as well as a mandrel problem itself. Everyone looks for the magic bullet cause when there is in fact two or three causes simultaneously or that we move from one cause and fix it and then cause a second problem.

The problem more than anything else is that most of us do not want to admit that WE are the problem.

Below:
MP = Mechanical Problem
UP = User Problem

Number of DIFFERENT Mandrel Problems:
1. Mandrel actually bent (or more precise Bowed) MP
2. Tail stock too tight, which causes Bow UP
3. Usually 4 bushings or 3 in a few cases and either 1 or several bushing holes are off center. MP
4. Blank not squared properly. UP
5. Mandrel nut too tight on even a squared blank. (Big and strong hands may feel like it is barely tight but still too much. UP
6. Mandrel nut too loose. (Small and weaker hands are not tightening enough. Rarer but does happen.) UP
7. Not using a 60° live center UP/MP
8. Head - tail stock not aligned. MP
9. Tail stock not locked down properly. UP/MP
10. Bushings do not fit properly in the tubes. Should slide in with very slight pressure, not fall in. Those that "fall in" will allow too much movement and sets up eccentric turned blanks. MP
11. Too much hand pressure on the chisel causing mandrel flex. This is greatly amplified with loose bushing fitting into the tube. UP
12. Finish problems with:
- A. CA lifting when bushings separate; UP
- B. Bushings glued sticking; UP
- C. Busing Dust on wood. UP
- D. Dull spots due to too much sanding pressure causing mandrel flex, Out Of Round bushings/ Bent Mandrel, loose bushing fittings, too tight or too loose tail stock, or non 60° live center. UP/MP

Number of problems with TBC
1. Bushing Holes Off Center (OC) when used to start the rounding process. (Some people with lots of experience don't use bushings even from the beginning, thereby eliminating this problem.) MP
2. Continued use of OC bushings down to size. (Problems of OC bushings can and will be corrected with light touches and turning when bushings are removed.) MP/UP
3. Bushings too loose at startup. (But self correcting once bushings removed.) MP
4. UnSquared blanks. UP
5. Improper pressure: too much will ream brass; too little will not allow one to turn, so this one will be self evident and quickly corrected. UP
6. Too much pressure on the chisel creates catches and aggressive cutting more than out of round/eccentric and chatter. UP
7. Head Stock/Tail Stock alignment. MP
8. Tail Stock not locked down properly. UP

ON the above, it is easy to see that the mandrel does present more complications in getting a great turn.

In addition, it takes several more steps to use a mandrel than TBC. Still some people prefer to do both blanks at the same time on a two part pen.
Steps explained here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/truning-without-mandrel-7319/index2.html

There may be more and a few of these are much more rare than others. It should be noted that MOST of these were not a problem in the early days because the early adapters were keen observers and natural trouble shooters on the mechanics of their lathe machines and knew what to look for when a problem arose. They also knew their machines enough to know about alignment and tightness to the point that these problems did not crop up with them. Squareness was also a non-issue. This is all a part of experience and knowing the machine and mechanics as well as the end product wanted. To the more experienced, the product is a journey, not a destination.
 
I just started to TBC and I like it a lot but I still look at my mandrel and want to grab it. I had some out of round issues w/ my mandrel mosly caused by my heavy hand. Once I learne dto lighten my cuts the out of round all but disappeared. I used the PSI Mandrel saver and only turned one part at a time keeping the mandrel as short as possible. This is one reason I went to TBC was becasue I got tired of having to back the tailstock up every time I want to pull the blanks off and use the calipers to measure.
 
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