Making turning finishes ??? Bonnie Klien ?

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Hello, I think i seen it on this forum, Bonnie Kliens hand made finish formula. I tried to search and had no luck. I was wondering if anyone has it or has a formula for mixing wax and other things into a turning finish??? Thanks Everyone, victor
 
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Looking for more of a finish for small bowls. Decorative bowls not anything for food. I just love making my own everyting so thought i could try this. I have turners saying they mix waxes and oils of different sorts, but no one will reveal the secret of a custom mix. Thanks , Victor
 

Ligget

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Originally posted by Richstick
<br />1/3 shellac
1/3 BLO
1/3 Mineral spirits

great finish.

After 1 weeks use, no finish!

I tried homebrew finishes when I started turning pens nearly 3 years ago, the finish may look fantastic when freshly applied, but for me anyway they looked dull very soon.
 

vick

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Originally posted by LandfillLumber
<br />Looking for more of a finish for small bowls. Decorative bowls not anything for food. I just love making my own everyting so thought i could try this. I have turners saying they mix waxes and oils of different sorts, but no one will reveal the secret of a custom mix. Thanks , Victor
The link Ron gave you is a great start. For bowl's I use out of the can Watco danish oil or miniwax antique oil most of the time. I do play with mixing my own finishes. Currently I am using an oils varnish blend that works very nicely and goes on about the same as the Miniwax antique oil. It is about a 3 to 1 ration of spar urethane to BLO.
Just wipe on a fairly heavy coat let sit about 5 minutes and remove excess. Let it dry over night level with fine abbrasive or steel wood and repeat. I would let is sit several days after the last coat before buffing but not sure if it is necessary. I usually just wait till I have about 3 pieces ready for buffing and do them in a batch.
 

leehljp

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The 1/3 1/3 1/3 ratio can also be applied in other finishes. It is quite common in custom finishes in fine furniture. World famous Sam Maloof has his own formula that can be bought in a can or made up. He tells formulas himself in his book for the world to use.

One version of his is 1/3 Linseed Oil, 1/3 Raw Tung Oil, 1/3 Urethane.

A finish version is 1/2 Linseed Oil, 1/2 Raw Tung Oil and bees wax. Heat slowly and add bees wax until the bees wax melts, add in bees wax until it has a heavy cream feel to it.

These are for the professional user, and the waxed is very dangerous to someone who just thinks he can do anything anyone else can. The flash point of LO, RTO and wax are low enough to be dangerous.

I mentioned these because they can be found in books and on the internet and are not secrets. However, I will say that these types of finishes are not intended for the kind of handling that pens take. Pens and furniture are two different animals and need different feed - and pens need a different finish than furniture in order to preserve its first finished beauty beyond a few weeks. Furniture does not go through the same kind of wear that a pen does.
 

richstick1

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I should have mentioned that the 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 finish I posted above is a well known finish for turnings such as bowls, boxes, etc. Definitely not a pen finish!
 
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I'm not new to furniture finish, but not a pro at all. I have made a good amount of furniture, and have done dyes over stain then clear coats over that. It takes decades to mater finishes and I guess I may never, but to get good at it is good enough fo rme. I will say that when a mind is strong and motivated it can do almost anything anyone else can do. Many just never try hard enough, I used to doubt myself much more then realized that I have as much skill as most people do in this world. Most of us are capable of so much more then we ever give our selves credit for. As far as a professional I think its a genral term for someone who makes a living with that skill, and let me tell as a finish carpenter people are very quick to label them selves as pros(when in fact they are hacks)LOL. Thanks everyone for such good info. and links to more great info. Victor
 
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