Making flat black resin finish

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keithbyrd

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I have a customer who wants a flat black resin pen. My question is what is the best way to finish the pen?
- I can use 4/0 steel wool but at high speeds that actually puts a fairly decent shine on it.
- What if I sanded it to 600 and instead of MM and polishing it, I just rub it out with 4/0 steel wool?
- Is there any concern that after handling it the body oils would make shiny spots? Do I need to seal with something like Ren wax but not buff it?
- Who would have thought that making a pen "not shiny" would create so many questions.
Your input is appreciated.
 
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hewunch

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No need for wax or anything. Polish with MM to 12000, then grab one of the medium grit mm and by hand, knock off the shine. To be clear knock off the shine with the lathe off.
 

jttheclockman

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The more it is handled the more it will get shiny spots. Just the nature of the beast. If you do it in wood you can use a satin poly or lacquer. I do not think that would stick well to acrylic without flaking off.
 

keithbyrd

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No need for wax or anything. Polish with MM to 12000, then grab one of the medium grit mm and by hand, knock off the shine. To be clear knock off the shine with the lathe off.
Thanks for the info - question - why go all the way to 12 if you are going to knock it down? Also do you knock it down with wet or dry MM?
 

leehljp

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I did that numerous times and even posted a thread on it some years ago. Don't discount MM use. I found that 4000 began to bring out th shine, but 3600 brought forth a matt finish while making it very smooth. I thought 3200 would be a bit too coarse, but your milage may vary from mine.

My previous thread on this subject:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32496&highlight=shine

What John said is valid too. Very much like a keyboard on a laptop, over time, the more used keys will show a shine. Depending on how much the pen is used - that will determine if there are shiny spots developing. If so, a few swipes of 3200 or 3600 MM (or equivalent sandpaper) will bring the matt finish back. IF CA protection is not used and wax only, instead of shiny spots coming on with use, hand dirt will build up and show, and cleaning will be needed on occasion. The CA version will give the longest protection and a few swipes of the MM or sandpaper will bring it back to its original state.

AND there is one caveat to that: Your CA build up needs to be enough that it can take 3 or 4 cleanings without sanding through. I personally use calipers to measure my CA build up, and allow for a build up of about .01 thickness at the least.
 
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Todd in PA

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Feb 16, 2021
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Port Matilda, PA
I saw others post pictures of matte pens and quietly wondered how they did it. One that I admired some time ago, they had intentionally not filled all the wood pores to give it a texture to go with the matte finish. Bogwood, I think. Needless to say, that pen was sexy. I don't have any bogwood, but I've got some Wenge in my drawer and I might try my hand at it this weekend. #inspired. Thanks!
 

Bstrauch

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Apr 1, 2021
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Washington State
A matte finish is the result of the surface having microscopic texture that refracts as opposed to reflecting the light. With handling, the texture is worn down creating a sheen. I have only had luck getting a semi-matte finish (that has actually lasted with daily use) with wood using ebony and a couple of light coats of friction polish that will eventually wear off during use leaving a semi-matte finish.
 

keithbyrd

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Mount Wolf, PA
I did that numerous times and even posted a thread on it some years ago. Don't discount MM use. I found that 4000 began to bring out th shine, but 3600 brought forth a matt finish while making it very smooth. I thought 3200 would be a bit too coarse, but your milage may vary from mine.

My previous thread on this subject:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32496&highlight=shine

What John said is valid too. Very much like a keyboard on a laptop, over time, the more used keys will show a shine. Depending on how much the pen is used - that will determine if there are shiny spots developing. If so, a few swipes of 3200 or 3600 MM (or equivalent sandpaper) will bring the matt finish back. IF CA protection is not used and wax only, instead of shiny spots coming on with use, hand dirt will build up and show, and cleaning will be needed on occasion. The CA version will give the longest protection and a few swipes of the MM or sandpaper will bring it back to its original state.

AND there is one caveat to that: Your CA build up needs to be enough that it can take 3 or 4 cleanings without sanding through. I personally use calipers to measure my CA build up, and allow for a build up of about .01 thickness at the least.
Thank you Hank - will read our article - I appreciate your comments and ink!
 
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