lubrication for "wet" sanding

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ibgugs

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I was wondering what others used as the lubrication for wet sanding I have tried mineral oil, Tap cutting fluid, Tri-Flow super lubrication and Empire Wood Cutting Lubricant

bob
 
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gerryr

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I used to use water until I had problems with a couple of blanks absorbing it and developing huge "pimples." I switched to odorless mineral spirits and haven't had any problems at all. I use a small sheet of Viva, folded to about 2x3, and hold it against the back side of the blank and the MM on the front side. Also keeps the wood cleaner than water.
 

Mikey

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I only wet sand acrylics and use water. Wood products get sanded with dry MM up to 12,000, and if there is a finish applied, I may take some auto polish to the blanks after that.
 
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I think sanding wood with water is a sacrilege[}:)]

Sometimes I sand dry, other times I use DO, and once in a while I'll use minerial spirits.

I have used mineral oil a few times, but found out that I need to let the wood sit for a week or so before I could apply any other finish. Minerial oil never dries.

I was on another wood turning site and there was a discussion on using WD-40.
 

btboone

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I was thinking of acrylic with the WD-40 or water with soap. Something to make it just a bit more slippery than plain water. It also keeps the paper cool. I used to sand titanium sheet to mirror finish with 400 grit paper on a hand sander and a spray bottle of water & soap mixture. It takes just a drop or two of liquid soap in a spray bottle full of water. It works well on acrylic and CA finishes. I imagine either wouldn't do so well on raw wood.
 

ashaw

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If you are using water on oak or simular wood with high tanins use distrill water. Because tap water will have mineal traces in it and will react with the tanins. Hard leason learned when I was doing some case work.
 

driften

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Maybe its just me, but when someone askes about wet sanding I assume its not wood being sanded.

I should try adding the soap to my water though. I bet that works much better!
 

Randy_

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I would think that using soap, WD-40, mineral oil or any other oil, or anything that doesn't totally evaporate will leave some type of residue on/in the wood that would interfere with adhesion of the final finish. It would seem like anything other than water or DNA would be a problem?? What am I missing?? Thanks.
 

driften

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I don't see any reason to wet sand wood...... I can see wanting to wet sand CA, but not untreated wood its self. Acrylic and other blanks of that type should be wet sanded to keep the heat from melting the material and floating away the dust.
 

Mattmck

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For my customers who want the 'natural wood feel' finish, I can wet sand wood with BLO.. works great, but you have to clean it off your MM before it dries. DAMHIKT. if you are a CA-BLO'er, then you are OK also, as long as you are comfy putting CA on top of wood that is loaded with BLO. (I know some do it the other way). Thanks to Fangar, I am not using BLO with my CA finishes anymore, and loving the results.

I wouldn't ever wet sand wood with water either, as some have said. You have to be careful with DNA, because that is some NASTY stuff. Read the MSDS if you are bored (or don't want to go blind). I did just make a pen out of white oak for a customer, and they wanted it to smell like a whisky barrell.. I wet sanded with Jack Daniel's. Man, that's alcohol abuse.
 

driften

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Originally posted by TomServo
<br />Does anyone find that the wood gets soft when they sand with water? I'd think that would be a problem with some woods in particular.

You don't wet sand wood. People wet sand the finish over the wood and would not have a problem with wood getting soft since the wood never comes in contact with water. Only the finish. Normally most people only wet sand acrylics and other non-wood materials.
 
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