Looking to learn how to turn "Designer" model pens

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Sven03

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I know how to do slim line 7mm pens, but I would like to learn how to turn the designer pens and also the cigar pens...If there is any one who can give me the right direction for kits, bushings, technique, differences in turning if any and what not I would be very thank full....
 
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Cigar pens in general are similar to slimline, just bigger- bigger bushings and 10m bit.

Designer pens require a tenon on the upper barel but you can get a sizing sleeve to make that part easier. Arizona Silhouette, woodturningz, and craft supply usa are excellent sources for bushings, kits, and blanks.
 
I do a lot of the 7mm Designer/European pens and although the tennon for the center band can be a pain, I think it is worth it. Start with the basic 24k or chrome kits and make sure you get your bushings from the same source as your kits! Not all the kits are the same. I had picked up some PSI bushings at a woodworking show and went to use them for my Berea kits and am glad I measured them first![:I]

As for turning, On The upper portion I usually follow the centerband size for about 3/4 of the length of the blank and then taper towards the end. I usually do not cut the tenon for the center band until I am close to the dementions I want to use. I use a centerband to gauge the where to start the tenon and start turning. I have found that if I use the bushings for my guage, the centerband will be too loose, so I will actually turn the tennon a little proud of the bushings and then use a real centerband to check for fit. Be careful not to cut the tenon too long or you may have to do an oops band:

200512242027_oops.jpg


On the lower portion of the blank I sometimes taper from the center to the nib, other times I keep the center diameter for most of the way and then taper to the nib. You will also find that the diameter of center end of the lower portion is not critical.

I think you will find these or the Cigar pens easier to turn than the slimlines. They are much more forgiving!

Good luck and Merry Christmas!
 
Cigar pens are very sensitive to blank length. The tubes cannot be shortened or the mechanism and refill will not work properly. This is the only quirk the cigar kits have, or the only quirks I've run into.
Go for it...nice pen and an easy kit to make.

Designer pens are not too difficult either. Some require a tennon and others require the wood to be parted off down to the brass tube. Mostly I think, the 7mm designer has the tennon and the designer that uses the parker refill has the wood parted off down to the brass tube. Nothing difficult. Just do a someone else mentioned, measure. In fact, it is a good practice to use bushings just for reference and measure all pens against the pen kit parts.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by Teniko
<br />Cigar pens in general are similar to slimline, just bigger- bigger bushings and 10m bit.

Designer pens require a tenon on the upper barel but you can get a sizing sleeve to make that part easier. Arizona Silhouette, woodturningz, and craft supply usa are excellent sources for bushings, kits, and blanks.
Click to expand...
 
If these are kits that you think that you are going to do a few of and you want quality then do yourself a favor and purchase your bushings and kits from either Craft Supply or Berea or one of their resellers. Actually Craft Supply doesn't use resellers only Berea which would be BB at Arizona Silhouette.

Wayne
 
The Euro style pens are easy. Follow the directions and you won't screw up too bad. The hardest part is the tenon on the upper barrel for the center band. Measure back fron the edge 7/32". Draw a line around the barrel. Take your parting tool and turn down the tenon area to the bushing. Or, turn it down until the center band will just slip over it. Be sure to keep a square corner at the base of the tenon. That's it.
Put one on the lathe and go for it.
 
The tenon on 7mm Europeans, IMHO and experience, is very easy to do. The center bushing is a two part affair with a collar sizing bushing. After rounding my blank I cut the tenon down with a 1/4" parting tool. It takes only seconds and is almost foolproof. The 1/4" is only a hair narrower than the center band needs. After getting down to size I shave that hair off and move on to the rest of the pen. Not using a center band is also an easy option. Just turn using the loose collet ring outside diameter as your bushing.
 
Do you think I will run into problems with getting the tenon to work with my machine??? I make my pens on a shopsmith mark 5...Old as dirt but keeps on trucking...I am going to do it either way, but if there are compatiblilty issues could anyone point me in the right direction....thanks...also, the mandrel set I have came from penstate, so maybe I should try there for the designer bushings and tenon piece???
 
I did my first set of pens on a Shopsmith and I know others on this group use them also. You shouldn't have any problems. If you are using the standard Shopsmith live center, you may want to get a 60 degree live center. I'm not familiar with PSI mandrel or kits, but I do know most of the pen mandrels have a 60 degree recess at the tailstock end. The standard live center from shopsmith and most other wood lathes is 30 degrees. This could produce some wobble.
 
The cigar kits were one of the first ones I tried. I like the kit. I use a cigar as a daily pen. Very easy. But you do need to watch the tube length, as Don stated.
I prefer the CSUSA 7 mm Euro kit, the fit and finish ( to me ) is better .
 
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