left or right hand

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steamshovel

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Oct 2, 2011
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Middleton Idaho 83644-5506 USA
I want a drill bit for drilling out blanks that that doesn't get stuck in the blank. I used to know but the older I get the less I know or remember-just my excuse. Is it the left hand or the right hand twist that is self cleaning? I want a 8mm carbide brad point. The wood is oily and my regular bit get stuck often. I drill a little and back out and drill some more and I still get stuck again.

Preston
 
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By "getting stuck" just what is happening? Is the bit cutting too fast and catching the bottom of the hole, or is the side of the bit grabbing the side of the hole? Is the shavings causing the bit to jam in the blank? If the bit is sharpened where it takes too big a bite it may catch the bottom of the hole or create so many shavings that can/will cause the bit to seize in the hole. Depending on the material the hole may distort causing a similar situation.

Charles
 
The bit works find on all of the blanks I drill but this black oily wood a friend gave me. The shaving are like powder and it builds up on the bit. I take it slow and back out often. I use my drill press and when the bit gets stuck-the drill press quits turning, so I shut it off and use a crescent wrench to loosen the blank and start over. When I back out I use my air blower or a small wire brush to clean the bit. I don't know which drill bit is self cleaning whether it is the left hand or the right hand.

Preston
 
All twist drills are "self cleaning" in that the spiral of the flute is intended to lift the drilling chips (granules) out of the bore the same way a screw conveyor moves powdered and granulated materials.


If the material is sticky it will not move as freely along the flute spirals and new chips will jam up into the chips ahead of them in the bore and gum the bit up eventually jamming it as it expands against the bore wall.

The deeper you go the more this will be accentuated.

Back the bit up a little more frequently and competely withdraw it from the hole more often as you drill deeper.

Heat of drilling will also become more of a problem and cause the wood granules to become sticky the deeper you drill, and the hotter they get the more the problem will be accentuated, maybe directing a blow gun in the bore while drilling will help as it would help cool the bit, but adjusting the speed and feed rate then checking the bit temperature (it should get warm, not hot) when you pull it out to clear the chips would be better.

Deep holes in gummy aluminum present a similar problem and there are bits with a slower twist rate made to make chip removal easier and allow deeper drilling (in metal a coolant is usually used as well, which really isn't practical in wood).

Try pulling the bit out more often and wiping it with a wet cloth to cool it down some and see if that helps.
 
Preston, if you haven't tried the Colt 5-start pen maker bits, I would give it a try. I have a couple and they drill easier than my brad points or split points in most materials.
 
IMO, if your bits are getting stuck, you are not withdrawing nearly enough. I have the same problem with AA or ebony blanks and have to remember to clear the bits more.
 
I drill on the drill press and about every 1/4" or so the drilling gets tough and then the bit stops in its track dead. It only does it with this certain wood and I don't know what it is or the guy I get it from knows. It is black and oily. They make a good looking pen. I think I will increase the speed a bit.

Preston
 
I drill on the drill press and about every 1/4" or so the drilling gets tough and then the bit stops in its track dead. It only does it with this certain wood and I don't know what it is or the guy I get it from knows. It is black and oily. They make a good looking pen. I think I will increase the speed a bit.

Preston

Increasing the speed is probably worth trying.

Seriously though, drilling on the lathe is the way to go.
 
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