Lathe chuck issue

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KB250 said:
So I am new to the turning and love it. I bought a keyed chuck (Buy 1/2" Keyed Lathe Drill Chuck #1 MT at Woodcraft.com) so I can start turning bottle stoppers but the unless I have the live end from the tail stock against the blank the Chuck spins off, what am I doing wrong?! Thanks in advance for any help!
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The "Tang" (distal or small) end of the Morse Taper Arbor will have a 1/4-20 internal thread. Get a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod, a 1/4" ID fender washer and a 1/4-20 wing nut. Thread one end of the threaded rod into the ID thread of the Chuck arbor and insert the threaded rod and chuck arbor into the headstock. Seat the arbor as normal. The threaded rod will pass through the headstock and come out the "outboard" end. Place the fender washer over the threaded rod against the outboard end of the spindle and run the wing nut up on the threaded rod until tight. It will retain the chuck in the headstock without it coming out. Once that's done, you can mark the excess length of the threaded rod and cut it off at some point when you have a moment to spare. BTW - for Bottle Stoppers PSI makes a Bottle Stopper Chuck that threads on the headstock's external threads and obviates the problem. Since your lathe has MT1,, it probably has 3/4-16 and the Bottle Stopper is 1"-8 so you'd also need a spindle adapter, which could also be used with a PSI Blank drilling chuck and you'd still have a use for the drill chuck from woodcraft to hold drills in the tailstock.
 
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oneleggimp said:
KB250 said:
So I am new to the turning and love it. I bought a keyed chuck (Buy 1/2" Keyed Lathe Drill Chuck #1 MT at Woodcraft.com) so I can start turning bottle stoppers but the unless I have the live end from the tail stock against the blank the Chuck spins off, what am I doing wrong?! Thanks in advance for any help!
Click to expand...
The "Tang" (distal or small) end of the Morse Taper Arbor will have a 1/4-20 internal thread. Get a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod, a 1/4" ID fender washer and a 1/4-20 wing nut. Thread one end of the threaded rod into the ID thread of the Chuck arbor and insert the threaded rod and chuck arbor into the headstock. Seat the arbor as normal. The threaded rod will pass through the headstock and come out the "outboard" end. Place the fender washer over the threaded rod against the outboard end of the spindle and run the wing nut up on the threaded rod until tight. It will retain the chuck in the headstock without it coming out. Once that's done, you can mark the excess length of the threaded rod and cut it off at some point when you have a moment to spare. BTW - for Bottle Stoppers PSI makes a Bottle Stopper Chuck that threads on the headstock's external threads and obviates the problem. Since your lathe has MT1,, it probably has 3/4-16 and the Bottle Stopper is 1"-8 so you'd also need a spindle adapter, which could also be used with a PSI Blank drilling chuck and you'd still have a use for the drill chuck from woodcraft to hold drills in the tailstock.
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Not necessarily, I have a lot of morse taper items with no threading for a draw bolt. It's something you have to pay attention to when you purchase. MT 1 isn't going to help you either. Less surface area than the number 2MT.
 
I forgot about the "option" of using a draw bolt . :redface:

When you say the "chuck spins off" what exactly do you mean ? Do you mean the chuck comes off the short tapered part of the arbor that sticks out of the headstock ? . If that is the case, a draw bolt won't help. . A draw bolt is meant to hold the long tapered part of the arbor in the (whatever it is inserted into - in this case the headstock).

Now, getting a MT1 tapered arbor which is threaded for a draw bolt ..... hmmm .... don't remember ever seeing one. MT2, yes.

But I think, as Ernie said, you would be better off buying a bottle-stopper "chuck" and screwing it onto the headstock spindle thread (using an adapter if necessary).

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html

But if you notice, they sell you a drill bit at the same time as part of that purchase. The drill bit is sized to drill your blank to accept this insert:

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/BSERT.html

But the insert is not really necessary. Just drill the right size hole to screw the B.S. "chuck" directly into your blank.

But the first thing you have to do is find out the thread size on the nose of your lathe spindle. It's probably 3/4-16 which means you will need an adaptor in order to screw the 1-8 "chuck" on.
 
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magpens said:
I forgot about the "option" of using a draw bolt . :redface:

When you say the "chuck spins off" what exactly do you mean ? Do you mean the chuck comes off the short tapered part of the arbor that sticks out of the headstock ? . If that is the case, a draw bolt won't help. . A draw bolt is meant to hold the long tapered part of the arbor in the (whatever it is inserted into - in this case the headstock).

Now, getting a MT1 tapered arbor which is threaded for a draw bolt ..... hmmm .... don't remember ever seeing one. MT2, yes.

But I think, as Ernie said, you would be better off buying a bottle-stopper "chuck" and screwing it onto the headstock spindle thread (using an adapter if necessary).

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html

But if you notice, they sell you a drill bit at the same time as part of that purchase. The drill bit is sized to drill your blank to accept this insert:

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/BSERT.html

But the insert is not really necessary. Just drill the right size hole to screw the B.S. "chuck" directly into your blank.

But the first thing you have to do is find out the thread size on the nose of your lathe spindle. It's probably 3/4-16 which means you will need an adaptor in order to screw the 1-8 "chuck" on.
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Assuming that the issue is the part indicated in red ....


A lot of people don't know that some tools come as multiple parts in order to facilitate the use of different adapters so that they can move the same tool from one platform to another with minimal cost and fuss, but it causes a problem in that there is no actual security mechanism to prevent the tool from falling apart while it's in use, which is a major safety concern!

The method I came up with to solve this issue with my mini 3-jaw scrolling chuck was to allow the tool to come apart, and then liberally apply thin CA and force the tool back together, using pressure from the tailstock to ensure that it was still centered. (DO NOT TURN THE LATHE ON UNLESS YOU WANT TO BE COVERED IN SUPERGLUE ALONG WITH YOUR LATHE BED - please don't ask me how I know this....) Wait a day or so for the CA to be fully cured.



A draw bar will work fine for the tailstock end, but not nearly so well for the headstock end. You will need a bearing assembly attached to the draw bar or it will wear against the headstock as it spins with the spindle.
 
Looking at the picture in the link you posted you have 3 parts - the chuck, the key and the and the tapered bit that goes between the chuck and the lathe.

Are you having problems with the chuck coming off the tapered bit or the tapered bit coming off the lathe?

If you are having trouble with the chuck spinning off the tapered bit, I had the same trouble and was told by another member how to solve the problem. "Whack It!!". They hold together using friction and he told me to clean both parts put them together, place on something solid, and give it a good whack with a rubber mallet. I have not had any problems since.

If you are putting the chuck on the headstock - that could be an issue also. I don't think you are supposed to use them on the head-stock. The paperwork that came with mine said to use in the tail-stock. (Then again - I may be wrong)
 
Actually that chuck can be used in the headstock to use to hold bottle stopper blanks or anything else and in the tail stock for drilling blanks. Just use a draw bolt when it is in the headstock. I use one all the time without any special bearing. i used 1/4 x 20 threaded rod and them turned a know for the end, which makes it easier to thread into the end of the mandrel. In regards to drilling your blanks for bottle stoppers don't use the size of the mandrel, because it can strip very easily. Go down 1 drill bit size and then thread it on and you will have less stripping out.
 
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